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I'd say it was way too early to integrate, we usually do the viewable separation method until the new birds are 75% the size of the existing birds.

Awesome! Sounds like I'm on the right track. Thanks. Hopefully this will increase the hatch rate. What about misting the eggs once a day in the hatcher? Is that necessary or should I just let them do their thing? I've heard it helps. What should humidity be in hatcher?

I had an epiphany the other day and bought a 2nd Little Giant incubator to use as a hatcher only. I never liked holding eggs until I had enough to fill the incubator to start a hatch. Sometimes the 12 day old eggs don't make it all the way or get stuck, so I began putting all eggs I have after...

Less tail feathers means its probably a pullet.

I agree with jester. Pull the chick and get it under a lamp. I would put the eggs in a bator or hatcher too.

I try to keep it around 98-99.5 degrees in brooder.

Always check the spurs. Young roosters should have small nubby spurs and the color of the spur will match the leg color. Older roosters will of course have bigger spurs and they will darken with age. Even if the spurs are trimmed, look for diameter of the nub and its color. I always check ear...

Sounds like plenty of space to me.

I like to put em in the brooder right away. I usually take whatever chicks are hatched out of the bator every morning. Dip their beaks in water and let em roll. The sooner the chicks get in the brooder, the sooner they can start eating, drinking and developing immunities. Temperature is...

I usually keep em separate for a while in a separate pen where they can see each other. As soon as they seem to mellow out and stop clucking irritably I usually introduce. I temporarily add an extra feeder and waterer in the corner because she may need it, the original hens may run her off when...

They should be fine. Unless it gets below 50 I always put em out at 1 month old. I like to limit their time under the light, it seems to stress them somewhat. I feel they stay awake too much, consume too much, get pasty butt and seem to be very nervous, if left under a light for too long. Kinda...

Coop is really cool. Wuts with the door on the ceiling? Just curious. Lol.

I agree with the last two posts for the most part. Ditch the layer pellets for now, use a general type of poultry feed and throw out oyster shells (dirt cheap around here) for those that need it. Wait a week before eating "medicated" eggs and everyone should be fine. I like to mix the oyster...

Everything should b okay. There is no real harm done. I would b more concerned about the pullets. High calcium levels in layer pellets are hard on kidneys but 1 day should hurt. I would switch to grower mash for the pullets til they get close to laying age. How do u separate their feed?

Good luck. I know peoples prices are insane. I was trying to buy Golden Pheasants from a guy that wanted $50 for an egg! I recently found another guy in Bako sells breeding pairs for the same price. Go figure. I guess its dependant on location. So Cal is expensive.

Check Craigslist central valley. I find them for as low as $20 each. There is also a man in Visalia Ca that always has them for $20. He does not advertise but if u are truly interested I can obtain a # for him. He will not ship but I guarantee that the trip is well worth it. He has every type of...

Sounds like you did it perfect. Nice attention to your flock. If any start picking in the smaller birds I was taught was to pick up and hold any would be bullies and let all the birds see. Then after a few minutes place the offender across the coop and keep monitoring. Always settles my girls down.

I agree with Dawg. Trim the butt fluff.

The only way I have ever been able to do such a thing is in large, separated "fly" pens that the roosters stay in and you can swap out hens. Usually 6-10 hens is enough for one rooster to service. I would keep 3 fly pens for your Roos and rotate the hens in groups of 10. If you leave them all...

Ditto on the last two posts