attaching corrugated roofing

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That's interesting.

I wonder if it maybe depends on the gauge of the roofing, or something like that. Or climate?

The roofing I've worked with (all from one manufacturer) explicitly said to screw through the *ribs* for roof installation; and that is the typical way it is installed up here, in fact I noticed while running a couple errands just now that all three barns and both hardware stores that I pass close enough to see how the roofing is put on are ALL screwed through the *ribs*.

The only barns I've known with serious leakage problems (usually when there's a wet snowpack up there) have been ones where the roofing is screwed through the flat part not the ribs.

I don't know what gauge my roofing is, but it's whatever code requires for a 4-in-12 pitch with the (fairly heavy) wind and snow loads required here... screwing through the ribs does not deform or weaken them at all. Pretty strong stuff.

Although actually I notice that Palruf and Suntuf, the rather flimsy corrugated *plastic* roofings, also specify that you should screw through the ribs.

Dunno. Funny.

Leaving the ends of the metal corrugations open for ventilation will help keep your roof sheathing/felt dry.

Agree, as long as there is a sheet of something under the roof. If it is just screwed onto purlins, with nothing or just glued-on insulation underneath, leaving the ends open can get snow blowing in in some climates/sites.

e.t.a. for the poster who asked about rodents - honestly if you've got rodents desperate enough to be climbing up the outside of the coop and in thru roof corrugations, they'll get in some OTHER way too... but if you really wanted to block off the corrugation openings, you could buy the profile strips they sell (have to get the one that matches your roofing).

Not a contractor for any number of years at all <g>, but having done stuff and noticed how barns I've worked in are built,

Pat​
 
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Quote:
That's interesting.

I wonder if it maybe depends on the gauge of the roofing, or something like that. Or climate?

The roofing I've worked with (all from one manufacturer) explicitly said to screw through the *ribs* for roof installation; and that is the typical way it is installed up here, in fact I noticed while running a couple errands just now that all three barns and both hardware stores that I pass close enough to see how the roofing is put on are ALL screwed through the *ribs*.

The only barns I've known with serious leakage problems (usually when there's a wet snowpack up there) have been ones where the roofing is screwed through the flat part not the ribs.

I don't know what gauge my roofing is, but it's whatever code requires for a 4-in-12 pitch with the (fairly heavy) wind and snow loads required here... screwing through the ribs does not deform or weaken them at all. Pretty strong stuff.

Although actually I notice that Palruf and Suntuf, the rather flimsy corrugated *plastic* roofings, also specify that you should screw through the ribs.

Dunno. Funny.

Leaving the ends of the metal corrugations open for ventilation will help keep your roof sheathing/felt dry.

Agree, as long as there is a sheet of something under the roof. If it is just screwed onto purlins, with nothing or just glued-on insulation underneath, leaving the ends open can get snow blowing in in some climates/sites.

Not a contractor for any number of years at all <g>, but having done stuff and noticed how barns I've worked in are built,

Pat​

Pat,
I agree that it would make more sense to have the screws on the ribs. Water runs in the valleys for sure, putting all the water right over the screws than just put a bunch of holes in your new metal roof. I have never had a problem with the screws leaking. Astoria, Oregon, gets about 100" of rain a year and we had no problems there. We only get about 20" where I am now, but, 1/4 of that might come down in 30 minutes. I think what they are after (manfs.) is to minimize movement due to expansion and wind, this in turn would prevent the holes in the metal from wallowing out and allowing the water past the rubber washer. I actually hate the corrugated stuff for roofs and spend the extra for the Hi-Rib, or concealed fastener systems (I love corrugated for siding. Cheaper than paint! but, do put it over sheathing, as it is pretty flimsy). Most of the corrugated roofs that I have been called to replace, had been attached with nails in the ribs. The constant expansion/contraction just lifts the nails out of the sheathing and wallows out the holes. Then, the wind lifts the seams and it's all down hill after that. Screws probably would stay attached better on the ribs, but , as I said before, it's not what the manufacturer recomends. Screws go in the valleys. You can check their websites, if you don't belive me.
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I wonder if it has to do with how much wet snowpack an area gets? That seems to be when the roofs I've known that leaked at the fastener holes, leaked the most (by far).

Screws probably would stay attached better, but , as I said before, it's not what the manufacturer recomends. You can check their websites, if you don't belive me.
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I do believe you, that's why I think it's funny. I am sure what you say is correct. At the same time I assure you that both the corrugated roofing mfr *I've* used, and the manufacturer of suntuf/palruf, explicitly recommend screwing thru the ribs (for roofing, not siding) and indeed that is the normal practice around here and works real good for buildings 'round here. And I've never heard of a manufacturer explicitly recommending nails not screws, that is *weird* and certainly not what I've encountered.

Presumably there is *some* reason for the difference
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But who knows what it is. It's a funny ol' world.

(e.t.a. - I know exactly what you mean about the fate of metal held on by nails, that's how our older barn is done and that's precisely what has happened to it. With the additional complication that some nimrod used steel nails on aluminum siding, so the holes enlarged even more rapidly
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We've had the roofing screwed on and I've redone the siding with screws myself, and now it seems likely to stay put. For a while anyhow, probably longer than the barn's structure will hold up. But I wish they'd'a done it better in the first place.)

Pat​
 
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I guess we've both been at this for the same number of years.

Fabrel, McElroy, ABC, Champion, Bruce&Dana and all the other manufactures I've worked with all say the same thing: screw fasteners go in the valleys of corrugated panels. I try to follow the instructions of the people suppling the product. Makes it easier to obtain warranty coverage later on. Corrugated panels should also not be used on slopes less than 2/12.

I agree on not using nails. They eventually work loose and leak. #30 felt over solid sheathing, or, some type of vapor barrior/insulation when over open framing should be considered too, to prevent condensation on the underside of the roofing metal.

Leaving the ends of the metal corrugations open for ventilation will help keep your roof sheathing/felt dry.

I follow the manufacturers specs also on the job.. but when I did my own house, shop and four outbuildings I did it this way..

I also made my own trim because I did not want the house to look like a polebuilding..

.........jiminwisc..........
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Quote:
I wonder if it has to do with how much wet snowpack an area gets? That seems to be when the roofs I've known that leaked at the fastener holes, leaked the most (by far).

Screws probably would stay attached better, but , as I said before, it's not what the manufacturer recomends. You can check their websites, if you don't belive me.
wink.png


I do believe you, that's why I think it's funny. I am sure what you say is correct. At the same time I assure you that both the corrugated roofing mfr *I've* used, and the manufacturer of suntuf/palruf, explicitly recommend screwing thru the ribs (for roofing, not siding) and indeed that is the normal practice around here and works real good for buildings 'round here. And I've never heard of a manufacturer explicitly recommending nails not screws, that is *weird* and certainly not what I've encountered.

Presumably there is *some* reason for the difference
smile.png
But who knows what it is. It's a funny ol' world.

(e.t.a. - I know exactly what you mean about the fate of metal held on by nails, that's how our older barn is done and that's precisely what has happened to it. With the additional complication that some nimrod used steel nails on aluminum siding, so the holes enlarged even more rapidly
tongue.png
We've had the roofing screwed on and I've redone the siding with screws myself, and now it seems likely to stay put. But I wish they'd'a done it better in the first place.)

Pat​

I edited my post to note that they don't recommend nails, but that the screws, when used, should go in the valleys. One manf. does OK nails for one of their products, but, changes the location to the high points, instead of the flats.

As for the Palruf, they ask for a support molding (wavy) at all attachment points. I am thinking this is to keep customers from deforming the roofing while attaching it. They also recommend atachment at every other rib and pre-drilling the holes. Every rib for windy areas. No movement going on there! Most the metal products I've put down average 1 screw per sq.ft. in the field areas and 4" o.c. at the edges.
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Another suggestion. We used a marine sealant "5200". It works great and is waterproof. It's used mainly on boats but I love it. When we built a boat and we put the consol in and we only used 5200 under it and no screws. When we built our last boat we wanted to take the consol out of the old boat and put it in the new one. When we did we had a very hard time and part of the floor came up too. It stays rubbery like and very strong. I used it on our roof and daubed it over the screw heads too. Here is a picture of ours. We used special washers and have no leaks.
IMG_0423.jpg
 
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every steel manufacturer I have dealt with called for wood grip screw in the valleys, Butlye tape on the seems with a lap screw on the seams but this has always been R or Y panels. Mainly Fabral or Mueller
 
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Same here. There used to be a company in the PNW (Champion Metal), I don't know if they are still around, that had a great lap design with an anti-siphon gap that actually worked. Never seen any other company with the same set up. Saved a lot of time and made a clean job.
 
We always used lead headed nails installed on the top of the ridge. But on the sides of the barns, we used old roofing nails driven through bottle caps to keep the tin from blowing off the barn. It worked for us.

Rufus
 

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