****** DIY chicken feeder pipe! ******

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TXYrdBrd said:
Just wanted to update my progress on this project. This has been a long time coming project. It still needs some refining but it works for now.

This feeder is controlled by 2 limit switches. The first one in the vertical PVC pipe is weighed down by the chicken feed when it's full and allows (12V) power to pass through on to the next limit switch in the horizontal PVC pipe. The second switch will feed the motor 12V power as long as there's no feed at the end of the tube. When there's enough feed in the horizontal pipe, it will make contact with the 2nd limit switch and shutoff the system until the chickens eat enough to bring the levels back down and the cycle begins again. When the feeder is completely empty, the first switch will cut power off to prevent the motor from running continuously with no feed in the feeder and burning itself out.

Here's an updated version of the diagram previously posted. and a picture of the finish product.
Click to expand...

That is certainly one way of dealing with crumbles in a feeder pipe. I built the traditional L style feeder pipe and it wouldn't feed EVER with crumbles. So this design I like very much.

My question/concern though is, with your limit switch at the end of the feed pipe, and not having an eating hole right there, will it ever be 'empty' once the initial fill up takes place? I know on mine, I could manually shove the food to the end with a push rod, but the last 3 or so inches wouldn't become 'empty' enough to trigger that switch to start the auger again.

Another question for you, what is your auger wrapped around? Just some 1" PVC pipe? If so, what are holding up the ends, reducers?
 
You hit the nail right on the head. The switch being so deep at the end creates that issue... never really "empty" to trigger the auger again for a refill. So the remedy will be to:
1) Move the switch closer to the last feeding hole.
2) Cut the feeding tube shorter at the end to where there's not so much "dead space" that the hens can't access the feed.
3) Last but not least, I will insulate the switches with a make-shift rubber boot (4:1 heat shrink tubing) to prevent the crumbles from getting into the space between the switch and the switch's lever (preventing the switch from functioning)

To answer your last question, (Dead on again !) Yes and Yes :thumbsup...
... I used sandpaper to shave off the circumference on the 1/2" pipe to fit loosely into the 3/4" x 1/2" Reducer. That gives it a fixed axis to rotate on and drive the feed down the pipe; versus not having an anchor at the end of the pipe and endlessly rotating while the feed stacks up under the auger pushing it up to the surface.

IMG_6510.JPG

IMG_6562.JPG
 
ah, I saw the cut out on the earlier picture, but the way the wiring was made it look like it was coming down the inside of the 4" pipe instead of behind the backside. This makes complete sense now.

I may have to steal this idea, but use a traditional electric motor instead of the battery powered one. I already have power at the coop so wouldn't me much of an issue to wire a 6' cord on the end and plug it into one of the outlets.

This feeder is ingenious!
 
cjoffutt said:
ah, I saw the cut out on the earlier picture, but the way the wiring was made it look like it was coming down the inside of the 4" pipe instead of behind the backside. This makes complete sense now.

I may have to steal this idea, but use a traditional electric motor instead of the battery powered one. I already have power at the coop so wouldn't me much of an issue to wire a 6' cord on the end and plug it into one of the outlets.

This feeder is ingenious!
Click to expand...

Check your inbox Cjoffutt !!!
 

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