(please) Help me design a solid watering system for my flocks

Ok, well, yes you've basically done exactly what I had in my head. A huge tank serving a variety of different needs, from pvc nipples to auto waterers.

Could a stock tank heater keep the main water warm enough to keep nipples from freezing?

Is that an automatic dog waterer? I basically want to accomplish that, but with a larger tank for larger animals. I think I have a float valve in my garage somewhere I can use.

I didn't realize polytote already had that nice outlet at the bottom.

Do you recommend raising the tote higher than ground level for increased water pressure?
In order:

;)

I don't know. We don't get cold. Ok, we were sub-Freezing for 28 hours continuous this year (new record) and the top iced. So did the water line. Nothing busted. I'm confidant a stock tank heater would keep the tank itself from freezing thru in all but very extreme temps. I am NOT confident it would keep the PVC with the nipples from freezing - you would be better off using electric freeze tape for that.

Yes, it IS an automatic dog tank waterer. I have stock tank floats attached to the one on the barn, both work fine.

;)

NOPE. Elevating the tank adds less than 1/2 psi per foot in height. The one for the barn adds almost 1.3 psi at 3' in elevation. However, elevating the tank DOES make it much easier to service, when you have to. If you had nothing but birds, I'd recommend just the 8" or so lift I have by the goat shed, sitting on CMUs. If you had goats or horses, or similar where you would want a trough several feet off the ground, the base of the polytote should be the same elevation or higher than the intended trough (and you can still run a lower line to proovide nipples/cups, etc for other animals.
 
In order:

;)

I don't know. We don't get cold. Ok, we were sub-Freezing for 28 hours continuous this year (new record) and the top iced. So did the water line. Nothing busted. I'm confidant a stock tank heater would keep the tank itself from freezing thru in all but very extreme temps. I am NOT confident it would keep the PVC with the nipples from freezing - you would be better off using electric freeze tape for that.

Yes, it IS an automatic dog tank waterer. I have stock tank floats attached to the one on the barn, both work fine.

;)

NOPE. Elevating the tank adds less than 1/2 psi per foot in height. The one for the barn adds almost 1.3 psi at 3' in elevation. However, elevating the tank DOES make it much easier to service, when you have to. If you had nothing but birds, I'd recommend just the 8" or so lift I have by the goat shed, sitting on CMUs. If you had goats or horses, or similar where you would want a trough several feet off the ground, the base of the polytote should be the same elevation or higher than the intended trough (and you can still run a lower line to proovide nipples/cups, etc for other animals.

We have dogs, sheep, and alpaca but all are happy drinking from one of those midsized black plastic troughs at ground level. Also we have a decent slope to the ground so perhaps I will just have the trough lower on the slope. I'll need to figure out how to add a float valve to that (or get something better for it).

I'll also probably add some apple cider vinegar to the water if I think of it.
 
We have dogs, sheep, and alpaca but all are happy drinking from one of those midsized black plastic troughs at ground level. Also we have a decent slope to the ground so perhaps I will just have the trough lower on the slope. I'll need to figure out how to add a float valve to that (or get something better for it).

I'll also probably add some apple cider vinegar to the water if I think of it.
My float valve connects to a hose, just like the automatic dog waterers do. I literaly attached a spigot to the pipe, attached a piece of garden hose to that, connected up the other end, and done.
 
My float valve connects to a hose, just like the automatic dog waterers do. I literaly attached a spigot to the pipe, attached a piece of garden hose to that, connected up the other end, and done.

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$20. There is small hole in side I saw when I got it home... Any suggestions for how to seal it? I was about to buy a new one but $20 is borderline impossible to turn down. I guess I need to figure out how to seal the top too...
 
If the roof/lid that you build for the tank isn't tight fitting, you can add some small goldfish to keep mosquito larvae at bay.
(The goldfish can survive the winter even if the tank gets a layer of ice.)
 
If the roof/lid that you build for the tank isn't tight fitting, you can add some small goldfish to keep mosquito larvae at bay.
(The goldfish can survive the winter even if the tank gets a layer of ice.)

Do I need to worry about fish poop or anything f like that? I honestly love the idea of turning it into a fish tank because my kids would love it, I'm just wondering about how the poop and fish food affect the water. But if I can get away with a loosely fit roof (ie, just put a roof on the cage) and having a fish tank...
 
I'm not seeing the hole, but if you get a small bit of that tape they advertise of TV (its thick like jam on toast, feels a bit like jelly actually) anl place it on the inside against the hole, that should do it. Or make a patch with some silicone and some backing material.
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These are all the same hole. Didn't notice it because there was a lot of leaves and stuff at the bottom of a similar color.
 
Several coats of white spray paint on the outside, bleach once a year, no need to drill any holes.

I'll have to get you some photos

So I'm in the midst of designing my first setup, using the topless tank I got for $20.

I've decided this one will be for practice and livestock only. I'll figure out a way to roof the tank (I'm still unsure about the goldfish idea but I kind of like it), then hang gutters from my barn roof, filter the water, and use rain plus well water to keep the water tank full and feeding a trough using a float. Maybe 2 troughs for different sized animals.

I'm researching various connectors and such... Should I give any consideration to metal vs plastic, or potential freezing/breaking of these parts? We usually only dip below freezing for a week or so. Just enough to be annoying.

Also, do you have your heat tape set up using solar? I've never done anything with solar or heat tape before so I'm wondering if I need to run electricity to this during the winter. (Possible, though would affect tank placement). I'm also considering hanging a stock tank heater in it during winter for the same reason. Last thing I need is to keep everything working then have the hose freeze or a connector crack.

And finally, beyond parts/connecter quality, do you have any advice regarding filtration?
 
So I'm in the midst of designing my first setup, using the topless tank I got for $20.

I've decided this one will be for practice and livestock only. I'll figure out a way to roof the tank (I'm still unsure about the goldfish idea but I kind of like it), then hang gutters from my barn roof, filter the water, and use rain plus well water to keep the water tank full and feeding a trough using a float. Maybe 2 troughs for different sized animals.

I'm researching various connectors and such... Should I give any consideration to metal vs plastic, or potential freezing/breaking of these parts? We usually only dip below freezing for a week or so. Just enough to be annoying.

Also, do you have your heat tape set up using solar? I've never done anything with solar or heat tape before so I'm wondering if I need to run electricity to this during the winter. (Possible, though would affect tank placement). I'm also considering hanging a stock tank heater in it during winter for the same reason. Last thing I need is to keep everything working then have the hose freeze or a connector crack.

And finally, beyond parts/connecter quality, do you have any advice regarding filtration?
I'm using window screen material and socks - yes, socks - for for filtration, and I don't get as much freeze as you do, so I don't use heat tape at all. If I did, I'd do the math and figure out how big a battery(ies) I'd need to support its draw. Heat tape is deliberately wasteful of power, its how it generates heat.

I used PVC, not only because its much cheaper, but because its much easier, (and cheaper) to repair when it does split. I even use PVC in my outside hose spigot assemblies as a (deliberate) failure point. I'd rather unscrew a 3/4" street elbow ($0.69) and screw another one in its place than have to patch PEX in a confined space, replace an anti-siphon valve ($27), or a 3/4" hose bib ($9).
 

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