I have been doing a lot of research here in BYC about building this Woods' house. Probably the best article (so far) is by Howard E. When searching for articles, use the TAG option of search. For search terms, type "woods" or "open"; you can select terms like woods coop, woods house, or open air coops. I suggest only using one search tag at a time. If you select multiples they ALL have to be there in the post to get a hit.
Howard talks a bit about the use of the Golden Ratio and roof pitch in this post. I believe that Dr. Woods came to his dimensions by trial and error (experience). It just so happens that the Golden Ration (~1.62 for engineers) is found in his end design. Which looking around the world is reasonable. It does show up (pretty close if not exact) often in the natural world. It is also deemed to be pleasing to the beholder when architecture is set to those proportions.
The pitch of the back (north) roof is very appropriate for the northern climes. On the winter solstice, the sun is about 23° above the horizon at a latitude of 43.8°N. A 5/12 pitch is also about 23°. So the sun light will reach almost all the way up the back wall for many days around the solstice. I have read in several old books on poultry (and other livestock) that sun light is a great antiseptic and curative.
A 10x16 Woods Semi Monitor Open-air house is a bit big for me at the moment. And the instructions in the book "Modern Fresh-Air Poultry Houses" lacks a lot of detail; by the author's design.
Being a retired engineer, recovering from bypass surgery, in winter, I decided to finalize a design. My goal is to put together a design package and bill of materials for others to use.
I have started with the 6'x10' coop.
It makes a nice little tractor (or portable). 15 birds if used with an appropriate run attached. Or 6 pets caged 24/7 over the winter? I looked at Woods' 10'x16' house and determined it scales nicely to 7.5'x12' and 6'x10'. Cannot really go any smaller. The birds and people don't scale down.
Making the adjustments has been a fun challenge.
This house at 6'x10' is still large enough to step into. Children and shorter people (5'6" ish or less) should have no problem going inside to tend to the flock.
( I am still working on the design. See below in comments.) Here is an isometric of the framed shed. In the drawing package will be some options for overhangs. I am trying to follow Woods' KD style as much as possible, use the simplest construction methods, and keep it cheap. (It is looking to be around $1300 as of now [4/3/2022])
Here is the West Wall design. Cyan color is a 2.5'x2.5' operable window. The East Wall is framed identically except for the bottom sill frame of the window. The front is 2.5'x6' open-air; so plenty of ventilation. Green is 4 nest boxes (12"x12"x12" front, 21" high in back with sloped lid) Nest Boxes are removable for if you want to use trap boxes or make the house a brooder. The roosts are 2x4 lumber. The framing is 2x3 with probably T1-11 for the siding. This is just a concept view. The details and actual measurements are in the drawing package.
Here is the floor and joists. 2"x4", 24" OC for joists. T&G subflooring for the deck. A luxury Dr. Woods didn't have back in 1921.
The drawing and Bill-Of-Materials is getting close enough for me to work with. BUT it is VERY rough. What is left is what I feel is mostly trim and however you want to put in the door and windows.
I haven't done any design on the door or windows yet, but I have the idea of how from the attached PDFs.
Comments welcomed.
:More to come??
Howard talks a bit about the use of the Golden Ratio and roof pitch in this post. I believe that Dr. Woods came to his dimensions by trial and error (experience). It just so happens that the Golden Ration (~1.62 for engineers) is found in his end design. Which looking around the world is reasonable. It does show up (pretty close if not exact) often in the natural world. It is also deemed to be pleasing to the beholder when architecture is set to those proportions.
The pitch of the back (north) roof is very appropriate for the northern climes. On the winter solstice, the sun is about 23° above the horizon at a latitude of 43.8°N. A 5/12 pitch is also about 23°. So the sun light will reach almost all the way up the back wall for many days around the solstice. I have read in several old books on poultry (and other livestock) that sun light is a great antiseptic and curative.
A 10x16 Woods Semi Monitor Open-air house is a bit big for me at the moment. And the instructions in the book "Modern Fresh-Air Poultry Houses" lacks a lot of detail; by the author's design.
Being a retired engineer, recovering from bypass surgery, in winter, I decided to finalize a design. My goal is to put together a design package and bill of materials for others to use.
I have started with the 6'x10' coop.
It makes a nice little tractor (or portable). 15 birds if used with an appropriate run attached. Or 6 pets caged 24/7 over the winter? I looked at Woods' 10'x16' house and determined it scales nicely to 7.5'x12' and 6'x10'. Cannot really go any smaller. The birds and people don't scale down.
Making the adjustments has been a fun challenge.This house at 6'x10' is still large enough to step into. Children and shorter people (5'6" ish or less) should have no problem going inside to tend to the flock.
( I am still working on the design. See below in comments.) Here is an isometric of the framed shed. In the drawing package will be some options for overhangs. I am trying to follow Woods' KD style as much as possible, use the simplest construction methods, and keep it cheap. (It is looking to be around $1300 as of now [4/3/2022])
Here is the West Wall design. Cyan color is a 2.5'x2.5' operable window. The East Wall is framed identically except for the bottom sill frame of the window. The front is 2.5'x6' open-air; so plenty of ventilation. Green is 4 nest boxes (12"x12"x12" front, 21" high in back with sloped lid) Nest Boxes are removable for if you want to use trap boxes or make the house a brooder. The roosts are 2x4 lumber. The framing is 2x3 with probably T1-11 for the siding. This is just a concept view. The details and actual measurements are in the drawing package.
Here is the floor and joists. 2"x4", 24" OC for joists. T&G subflooring for the deck. A luxury Dr. Woods didn't have back in 1921.
The drawing and Bill-Of-Materials is getting close enough for me to work with. BUT it is VERY rough. What is left is what I feel is mostly trim and however you want to put in the door and windows.
I haven't done any design on the door or windows yet, but I have the idea of how from the attached PDFs.
Comments welcomed.
:More to come??
