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The one with feathered feet is a Partridge Cochin Bantam. The color pattern of that one is Partridge, not Barred. The one with no feathers on the feet is the Barred Old English Game Bantam. At this age, I cannot tell whether either one is male or female.

Have you tried shutting them in the coop for about 3 days in a row? If they are laying, that would force them to lay in the coop. You could try checking their butts to see who is laying. https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/who-is-laying-and-who-is-not-butt-check.73309/ If you have a...

It should be fine for at least a few hours. If you leave dry feed available all the time, you can give them an amount of fermented feed that is "not quite enough," so they eat it up quickly and then eat a bit of dry feed to finish meeting their needs for the day. That way you don't have the...

Opening the lid one time, for a few minutes is generally no big deal. The more often you open it, and the longer you keep it open, the more likely you are to have problems (but even then, there is no guarantee of problems, just an increased chance.) If you have a point when the already-hatched...

Probably a Barred Old English Game Bantam. Barred is definitely the name for the color. Barred Cochin Bantam would have feathered feet (it does not) Barred Rock Bantam would have yellow feet where this chick has some qhite visible. Barred Old English Game Bantam matches on every point I can...

It is sometimes possible for two chickens with fluffy faces (muff/beard) to produce a chick without that trait. I would probably call him a poor-quality Splash Ameraucana (the "poor quality" because he does not have the muff & beard that breed is supposed to have. I'm not very good at...

Interesting! I had not heard that before, but when you put the photos next to each other like that, I do see a similarity in the pattern of woven basket and the barred multicolor chicken feathers.

Where did you learn this? It has not been in any article I ever found about the history of Rhode Island Reds. As a practical matter, any chicken breed produced by commercial hatcheries is going to be a very poor choice for cockfighting. The big hatcheries have many roosters in one pen with...

Some of that depends on how the rules are written in that area. In some places, if the car parts are visible from the street, they CAN do something (examples: charge a fine if the homeowner does not remove the items. Or pay someone else to move them and then send the bill to the homeowner.) I...

But I don't typically see chickens getting sick or dying from doing that, so maybe they are correct about it being safe for them to drink:idunno And even with the common example of chickens eating styrofoam, it may not be providing useful nutrients, but it is "safe" in the sense that it does...

I would think that milk with that feed would be fine, up to some level (but I don't know what level.) One option is to give them a little milk each day, and every few days you increase the amount by a little bit, and if you see problems you back off. Or, as I suggested before, let them have a...

I have read of chickens being offered milk free-choice in a dish (source: a book published about a century ago.) Maybe mix milk into some feed, and water into other feed, and give the chickens a choice? If you do it half each way, you can watch which one they eat first or most, and adjust the...

Definitely interesting!

The chick in the first two photos looks odd to me, but the other dark ones look normal. My sense of "normal" comes from buying Dark Cornish (standard or bantam) from at least 3 different hatcheries. The chipmunk-striped appearance, and variations of it, seem to be the norm from hatcheries in the...

There is one main gene that causes the chicken to grow muffs or beard or both. If your chicken has muffs, then it has that gene. The details of whether it has just a beard, or just muffs, or both, and how big they are, are controlled by other genes. I don't know any details about them. I do...

I was thinking only one drake with the female at a time, which matches what you are suggesting. But if the ducklings from each drake look different, there is no need to wait after switching drakes, because you can already be sure of who is the father of each duckling.

Are you trying to get chickens that can fly? In general, the body size seems to vary more than the wing size. That would be part of why Bantams and Leghorns and other small/light breeds are better fliers than heavy breeds, because their bodies are much smaller and their wings are not so much...

Yes, it is hard when there is a more common meaning for the words you need to use. I tried "genetics quail d'anvers chicken" and found a few things. Two threads on this site: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/d%E2%80%99anver-quail-pattern-inheritance.1319023/...

1/2" hardware cloth would be even more durable, because it is made with thicker wire than the 1/4" 1/2" holes are small enough to stop almost every predator that matters.

I'm not good with duck genetics, so I can't immediately say whether you will be able to tell the ducklings apart by color or not. @Pyxis if these drakes are crossed with the duck in the first post, would it be easy to recognize which ducklings are sired by which drake? The first post says this...