Acclimating & Introducing Billy Goat to Nanny Goat

[SmithsCoop41]

Okay Y'all,

I am coming on here to see if I can get any sound advice and tips from any veteran goat-keepers.
I have had my nanny goat for almost a year now, may even be close to 2 years. Anyyyywho....we got her when she was still young, not sure how young, and not sure if she's ever been bred, although I'm leaning more to "No" on that question.

I was told she was a mixed breed, not sure what kind, by previous owner, but she looks to be Anglo-Nubian breed to me, since she has the "look" and color of Nubians, but I am not ashamed to say, I am completely new to the goat keeping world, and I am very well a green horn! I do know regardless, that she is mature age.

Well, yesterday I got me a pygmy billy goat 3 years old, per the previous owner. Blue Eyed, and very much still capable of breeding. I currently have them separated with him in the run part of my chicken coop area, and the nanny is in the other side (coop/nesting part of the chicken coop. The chickens' coop and run areas are connected, and I have a small cut out door where they can move from the nesting area to the run part, but I have a metal panel blocking off the run part at the moment, but they can still see each other and smell each other through the wire. My question is, how long do I have to keep them separated before it's safe to let them loose around each other? And does goats pretty much breed all year long, with some parts of the year being the peak times for breeding, or do they only breed few times a year and that's it? Also, any overall advice and information for goat care that y'all can pass on to me would be greatly appreciated. I also would like to know what to expect or watch for as far as the whole breeding/gestation period/birthing processes too! What colors do y'all think these two would produce? Thank y'all!

A very green-horned Goat Keeper

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

As long as they get along you can put them together at any time. Breeding season here is usually August to January. Gestation is 5 months. You may want to keep them separately if you want kids born in a certain month. Winter can be hard on newborn kids if you get cold weather.

I suggest always having a loose goat mineral available, and free choice baking soda. Feed mostly roughage, and be careful feeding grains. They can cause deadly stomach problems, and urinary stones in males. Worm as necessary by checking eyelid rims. Vaccinate for enterotoxemia, and tetanus. Rotate pastures to avoid a worm overload.

 

[SmithsCoop41]

As long as they get along you can put them together at any time. Breeding season here is usually August to January. Gestation is 5 months. You may want to keep them separately if you want kids born in a certain month. Winter can be hard on newborn kids if you get cold weather.

I suggest always having a loose goat mineral available, and free choice baking soda. Feed mostly roughage, and be careful feeding grains. They can cause deadly stomach problems, and urinary stones in males. Worm as necessary by checking eyelid rims. Vaccinate for enterotoxemia, and tetanus. Rotate pastures to avoid a worm overload.

 

[SmithsCoop41]

I know this might sound like a stupid question, but what exactly do you mean "mostly roughage"? You mean like foods they would find by free-ranging, like in a pasture or field/empty land lot? Also, I feed the goats the same thing as the chickens, poultry feed. I looked it up since you made me aware of their different nutrition needs, and it said it is okay, but you do need to offer the baking soda free choice if you choose to feed them chicken feed, so I will be picking up some just for my goat flock. Side question...is it okay for a 2-month old doeling to also eat chicken feed as long as it has access to the baking soda? Just wondering because I'm supposed to be getting another addition to my goat flock today, a 8-week old doeling. Also, do billy goats require different nutrients/minerals or amount of nutrients/minerals from nanny goats and baby goats? I figured I'd ask that too since I'm learning all this info, which I really appreciate too, by the way. Also as far as treatments for worms, should they have/get any, what is the best affordable treatment that isn't going to break the bank so to speak? I did go to TSC yesterday and I got a mineral block for goats and definitely was NOT expecting it to be that heavy! LOL Anyway....Thank you for any additional information or advice you can give me, and I did let them get acquainted and they bumped heads like twice and that died down. However, I don't think she cares for him too much, she's almost always up on the ledge in the coop, my guess is to stay away from him. He has displayed a little "courting" behavior, but for the most part, they just let each other be unless he gets too close for comfort here and there. lol

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

I would not be feeding chicken feed. It isn't formulated for goats. Goats are rumens. They are also browsers like deer. They should mostly eat hay, grass, weeds, browse like tree trimming, and only a small amount of grains, mostly for pregnant or nursing does.

Grains can cause problems. Too much can cause acidosis, and bloat, and can kill if too much is consumed. Goats actually have a very sensitive digestive system design to digest poor quality stuff. Kids need to develop a goof rumen early. It's been shown to contribute to longevity

I would get an appropriate goat chow for the young ones. I would limit it, and make sure they are eating a good quality grass hay, or pasture. Generally males and females can eat the same stuff.

Mineral blocks are okay, but goats do better with a loose mineral ad they can break off teeth chewing on the block. You need a mineral formulated for goats as they have a higher copper need than cows or sheep.

I use to use Ivomec to worm my goats, the injectable cattle one, but given orally. I now use a horse wormer paste with ivomectin. It seems to work the same for mine. I dose at 2x the weight.

 

[SmithsCoop41]

I would not be feeding chicken feed. It isn't formulated for goats. Goats are rumens. They are also browsers like deer. They should mostly eat hay, grass, weeds, browse like tree trimming, and only a small amount of grains, mostly for pregnant or nursing does.

Grains can cause problems. Too much can cause acidosis, and bloat, and can kill if too much is consumed. Goats actually have a very sensitive digestive system design to digest poor quality stuff. Kids need to develop a goof rumen early. It's been shown to contribute to longevity

I would get an appropriate goat chow for the young ones. I would limit it, and make sure they are eating a good quality grass hay, or pasture. Generally males and females can eat the same stuff.

Mineral blocks are okay, but goats do better with a loose mineral ad they can break off teeth chewing on the block. You need a mineral formulated for goats as they have a higher copper need than cows or sheep.

I use to use Ivomec to worm my goats, the injectable cattle one, but given orally. I now use a horse wormer paste with ivomectin. It seems to work the same for mine. I dose at 2x the weight.

I just got an 8-week old buckling yesterday. It says that I can give babies hay at 8 weeks. The former owner said that he still was getting milk but also has been eating hay. What kind of hay is best for a baby? Owner said they give it bermuda hay, alfalfa pellets. Also, what are the loose minerals that I need to ask for when I go to my local feed n seed store in a few minutes?

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

I just got an 8-week old buckling yesterday. It says that I can give babies hay at 8 weeks. The former owner said that he still was getting milk but also has been eating hay. What kind of hay is best for a baby? Owner said they give it bermuda hay, alfalfa pellets. Also, what are the loose minerals that I need to ask for when I go to my local feed n seed store in a few minutes?

I feed a mixed grass hay. See what they have for a mineral formulated for goats. Hopefully they carry something. The blocks can work if that's all you can find.

 

[SmithsCoop41]

I would not be feeding chicken feed. It isn't formulated for goats. Goats are rumens. They are also browsers like deer. They should mostly eat hay, grass, weeds, browse like tree trimming, and only a small amount of grains, mostly for pregnant or nursing does.

Grains can cause problems. Too much can cause acidosis, and bloat, and can kill if too much is consumed. Goats actually have a very sensitive digestive system design to digest poor quality stuff. Kids need to develop a goof rumen early. It's been shown to contribute to longevity

I would get an appropriate goat chow for the young ones. I would limit it, and make sure they are eating a good quality grass hay, or pasture. Generally males and females can eat the same stuff.

Mineral blocks are okay, but goats do better with a loose mineral ad they can break off teeth chewing on the block. You need a mineral formulated for goats as they have a higher copper need than cows or sheep.

I use to use Ivomec to worm my goats, the injectable cattle one, but given orally. I now use a horse wormer paste with ivomectin. It seems to work the same for mine. I dose at 2x the weight.

Thank you for all the info!

 

[SmithsCoop41]

I feed a mixed grass hay. See what they have for a mineral formulated for goats. Hopefully they carry something. The blocks can work if that's all you can find.

The mineral block is okay for baby goats too?

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

The mineral block is okay for baby goats too?

Yes. I recommend a mineral formulated for goats because it contains copper which goats need. I have used the cattle blocks for years without problems before I started using a loose goat mineral. I would assume what else you feed will determine if they need extra copper or not.