Combined open-air coop and run

[RaspberryCJ]

I don't have chickens yet but I'm planning for them. It's very hot in the Dallas area, so I want to do an open-air design. A lot of people recommend 4 sq. feet per bird in the coop and 10 sq. feet in the run. But what if your run and coop are combined in an open-air design? For instance, I'm thinking of getting the 9'x12' Omlet Walk-In Chicken Run and using it as both the run and the coop. I'll cover the top and one end with tarp to provide shelter from the sun and rain. I'll put the roosts in the sheltered side.

So should I plan for 14 sq. feet per bird in a combined open-air coop/run, or is 10 sq. feet fine? To put it another way, does the "coop" side of the structure count as part of the run during the day?

If my question sounds strange, here's the reason for it: I'd like to get 10 chickens. City regulations allow up to 25 chickens, but they won't allow an "accessory building" larger than the 9' x 12' run, because we already have a shed on the property. So I'm trying to figure out whether 10 chickens will be happy in the 9'x12' Omlet Walk-In Chicken Run. If they won't be, then I'll probably give up on the idea of a combined coop and run. Instead, I would get a smaller coop (still an open-air design) and put up a fence around a larger run area. That way the run won't be included in the square footage of the "accessory building."

Thanks in advance!

 

[cavemanrich]

I think you should go with the 9x12 chicken run,, and make it like you posted above. Get the 10 chickens,, and see how things work for you. Dallas is a HOT climate area,, so open air coop is good for your chickens. Place some shelter items inside like obsolete tables and such.
Do have a contingency plan in case you get hurricane strength storms coming thru.?? Maybe during such storms,, squeeze them into your shed on your grounds,, until all danger passes.
Most peeps opt for a coop and run combo,, due to predator dangers. (especially overnight) Chickens get locked up safe. If your Omlet run is predator proof to known predators in your area,, then it would be safe as open air confinement.

WISHING YOU BEST,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and

 

[saysfaa]

I have a coop/run in one space and used 14 sq feet per bird. It works with my five hens but I would like to give them more space.

Having more birds at a given sq ft of space gives all of them more usable space because some will choose to be closer together some of the time.

You can help it work by giving them "clutter" to break lines of sight. That way they can give each other "space" (as in getting out of each other's face) more easily so getting along problems dissipate rather than escalate.

Picking breeds more likely to be compatible with your situation will help also. Or if a breed is known to be more likely to bully or to be bullied then have all of them that breed or a similar breed. Individual differences matter more than breed differences but you may as well give yourself the best chance for success.

And/or being willing to move individuals out if they don't fit well.

 

[InterestingChickens]

I have a set up similar the one you described in the way they don't have a separate coop. I have 7 birds and they get 20 square feet each. Personally I think 10 square feet is too little, even with the 20 square feet I would give them more if I could. This gives younger/less dominant birds more space to get away into.

However, I wouldn't go with the second option you described. This is because unless you build a fox proof fence, foxes and other such predators are still a danger even in the city during the day. If you happen to go away, you would risk predator attacks with you not being there.

You  could go with the omlet run and see how that goes and if you don't think they have enough space errect a small fence around the run which you could let them out in while you are home/watching them.

Have you considered building a run yourself? That way you would be able to customise it to your own needs and have the exact ammount of space you are allowed for. Not to mention it being an awful lot cheaper. Of course, only if that is an option as I understand you may not have the time or expertise. Best of luck with your chicken keeping journey.

 

[raingarden]

I figure ten square feet per bird in an open-air combination run/coop. If chickens only go into a coop to sleep and lay, then the roosting bars and nest box in the run becomes the coop and the area under them is still run. No??

 

[McChooky]

I don't have chickens yet but I'm planning for them. It's very hot in the Dallas area, so I want to do an open-air design. A lot of people recommend 4 sq. feet per bird in the coop and 10 sq. feet in the run. But what if your run and coop are combined in an open-air design? For instance, I'm thinking of getting the 9'x12' Omlet Walk-In Chicken Run and using it as both the run and the coop. I'll cover the top and one end with tarp to provide shelter from the sun and rain. I'll put the roosts in the sheltered side.

So should I plan for 14 sq. feet per bird in a combined open-air coop/run, or is 10 sq. feet fine? To put it another way, does the "coop" side of the structure count as part of the run during the day?

If my question sounds strange, here's the reason for it: I'd like to get 10 chickens. City regulations allow up to 25 chickens, but they won't allow an "accessory building" larger than the 9' x 12' run, because we already have a shed on the property. So I'm trying to figure out whether 10 chickens will be happy in the 9'x12' Omlet Walk-In Chicken Run. If they won't be, then I'll probably give up on the idea of a combined coop and run. Instead, I would get a smaller coop (still an open-air design) and put up a fence around a larger run area. That way the run won't be included in the square footage of the "accessory building."

Thanks in advance!

Edit:
My coop & run are both predator proof (1/2" hardware cloth)with an apron around the bottom (1-2 foot deep) I never close the coop. They get up early , go to bed early & come out when they want.They've never roosted outdoors but they have nest boxes indoors and out. My advise is make it big as you can so they have plenty of room.My 5 hens have 200 sq ft and I'd give them more if I could!

 

[3KillerBs]

Welcome to BYC. An Open Air setup is exactly what you need for that situation.

I figure ten square feet per bird in an open-air combination run/coop. If chickens only go into a coop to sleep and lay, then the roosting bars and nest box in the run becomes the coop and the area under them is still run. No??

This is exactly what I was going to say. The chickens use the space available according to their needs of the moment.

If you are able to build a run rather than buy the Omelet you'll get more space for less money (or, at least, for the same money), and be able to improve the predator resistance -- because the spacing on the Omelet wire are too large. Raccoons can reach through and grab chickens unless you cover it with 1/2" hardware cloth.

If you're not able to build your own, look into the availability of chainlink dog kennel panels, which are sturdy and often available used for a low cost. You'll still need to cover the large holes with a smaller mesh, but what's made to contain dogs is going to be strong from the start.

Here's my article on hot climate chicken keeping: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-climate-chicken-housing-and-care.77263/

 

[RaspberryCJ]

Thank you for all the helpful advice! I considered building my own coop, but I eventually had to admit I don't have the time or expertise. And hiring someone to build it would be a hassle and much more expensive than the Omlet run.

Regarding predators, I'd appreciate your advice on my situation. I know we have wildlife in the area: I've seen skunks, possums, and armadillo, though not in my yard. Rabbits do come into our yard, even though we're in a very residential, suburban area. Despite all this evidence of wildlife, I doubt they would be a threat because they have much easier sources of food. In our city, residents leave their trash in plastic bags on the sidewalk for trash pickup twice a week and I've never seen them torn open by animals. This isn't just some residents--it's every house. The garbage collectors don't want us to use trash cans. So why would they come into an enclosed area like our yard to try to kill chickens? I know there's always a possibility, but I'm wondering how big you think the risk is.

 

[3KillerBs]

Thank you for all the helpful advice! I considered building my own coop, but I eventually had to admit I don't have the time or expertise. And hiring someone to build it would be a hassle and much more expensive than the Omlet run.

Regarding predators, I'd appreciate your advice on my situation. I know we have wildlife in the area: I've seen skunks, possums, and armadillo, though not in my yard. Rabbits do come into our yard, even though we're in a very residential, suburban area. Despite all this evidence of wildlife, I doubt they would be a threat because they have much easier sources of food. In our city, residents leave their trash in plastic bags on the sidewalk for trash pickup twice a week and I've never seen them torn open by animals. This isn't just some residents--it's every house. The garbage collectors don't want us to use trash cans. So why would they come into an enclosed area like our yard to try to kill chickens? I know there's always a possibility, but I'm wondering how big you think the risk is.

Pretty much everything loves to eat chicken. You need to decide how devastated you'd be to lose birds.

In cities the major predators are often stray dogs, raccoons, rats, and coyotes (there are others, but these are common). You may never *see* them but they're almost certainly there.

Rats can get through most wire larger than about 1" square mesh (and they gnaw through wood and plastic when well-motivated).

The thing with raccoons is that they reach through the larger mesh/gaps between sections to grab sleeping chickens and pull them through bit by bit. If you can prevent the chickens from sleeping close to the wire that can prevent that problem.

Many people who buy these runs with the larger mesh will put 1/2" hardware cloth around the bottom 2-4 feet -- often as part of the installation of an anti-dig apron by using 4-foot wire with 2 feet up the wall and 2 feet bent out on the ground.

 

[IdyllwildAcres]

Bigger is better. Size matters.