Day old chicks put into coop?

steveonCapeCod

Chirping
Nov 24, 2016
13
7
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Has anyone put day old chicks into a coop?

Every year I add to my flock by buying day old chicks and raising them in doors. I start with an aquarium and increase the size of the "indoor coop" till they are big enough to move the large "indoor coop" into the coop.

Needless to say, this is a lot of work. I would like to buy day olds and introduce them immediately to the hens in the coop.

Will 1 to 3 year old hens adopt day olds? Or will I end up with dead day olds in the morning?

The cats would miss their annual three months of entertainment, but life would be a lot easier to me.
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I would not just throw day old chicks in with the flock, but you can raise them inside the run easily.

I use a "Mama Heating Pad" for warmth. There's another popular thread explaining the concept. Chicks can go outside - even when it's below 32'F! They simply run under the fake mama for warmth as needed. Here's what mine looks like:
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I basically wall off a corner of the coop/run to prevent the big hens from pecking at the little chicks. (They would likely kill the chicks as intruders.) A rabbit cage or dog kennel also work well. (Make sure openings are too small for chicks to pass through.) The adult hens get used to the presence of the new little ones, the chicks are provided with their basic needs, the cage keeps them safe, and no chick dust in your house!!!!!

When the chicks are about 3 weeks old, I usually leave the cage door open and allow them to venture out. The adults will peck them to show dominance if they get too close (but not try to kill them). The chicks can run back to the safety of their cage/area. I usually restrict the door's opening so that only chicks can pass in/out. (I use tape & cardboard since it's just temporary.) By the time they're 6 weeks old, they're pretty much integrated but at the bottom of the pecking order. that's when I start to work on teaching them to roost.

Here's what mine looks like
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I just noticed that you already have a brooder plate, so all you'll need is an extension cord and a safe area of your run/coop.
 
I just noticed that you already have a brooder plate, so all you'll need is an extension cord and a safe area of your run/coop.
Thank you very much for your reply.

Yes, I do have a brooder plate. It's an EcoGlow. It's got adjustable legs/sides and the chicks love it. I cut a piece of 1/8" Celtec for the top so I can clean it simply. I would put that in the coop with the chicks if I put them in.

My idea was to just set up a big box that went into a corner of the coop and leave the top off and hope that one of the big girls would adopt the chicks. I might be dreaming.
 
Short answer is yes, you can brood young chicks in an outdoor coop. You'll need a good, safe heat source (Mamma Heating Pad in the Brooder, Sweeter Heater). I've heard the EcoGlow is not very effective when the ambient temperatures are below 50 degrees, so that may not be an adequate heat source. You'd have to research that.

An adult hen will not accept chicks unless she's been broody for 2 to 3 weeks. They're more likely to kill them. However, you can integrate the chicks using a safe room with chick-sized doors, beginning around 3 to 5 weeks of age. See the article written by @azygous .
 
Thank you very much for your reply.

Yes, I do have a brooder plate. It's an EcoGlow. It's got adjustable legs/sides and the chicks love it. I cut a piece of 1/8" Celtec for the top so I can clean it simply. I would put that in the coop with the chicks if I put them in.

My idea was to just set up a big box that went into a corner of the coop and leave the top off and hope that one of the big girls would adopt the chicks. I might be dreaming.
Allowing the adults & chicks to see each other will help integrate them. If the top is open, then just use some type of netting & clips / clothes pins to block access.

I like the cheap bird / deer netting that you used in your big brooder pic. That's what I use b/c I already have it on hand.
 
Short answer is yes, you can brood young chicks in an outdoor coop. You'll need a good, safe heat source (Mamma Heating Pad in the Brooder, Sweeter Heater). I've heard the EcoGlow is not very effective when the ambient temperatures are below 50 degrees, so that may not be an adequate heat source. You'd have to research that.

An adult hen will not accept chicks unless she's been broody for 2 to 3 weeks. They're more likely to kill them. However, you can integrate the chicks using a safe room with chick-sized doors, beginning around 3 to 5 weeks of age. See the article written by @azygous .
Song of joy, thank you very much for your response.
You are right, the Eco Glow probably is not sufficient for young chicks in the winter here. I did spoil my girls when I built my current coop: The coop has 2x6 framing and whole coop is insulated heavily. It's also heated. (I also have solar panels that I just haven't had the time to install.) During the coldest of days, it never gets below 50.

So, let me ask another question: I do have some Buff Orpingtons (one of which we have named "Broody"). If I have a broody bird, and I stick a couple of day olds under her will she accept them?

Then the problem would be the food and water. I know the Red Star and the Amerucanas will clean out the starter feed if they could.

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So, let me ask another question: I do have some Buff Orpingtons (one of which we have named "Broody"). If I have a broody bird, and I stick a couple of day olds under her will she accept them?

Then the problem would be the food and water. I know the Red Star and the Amerucanas will clean out the starter feed if they could.

View attachment 1204689
In order for a hen to accept and raise chicks, the chicks must be under 72 hours old and the hen must be broody for at least 2 weeks prior to giving her chicks. If she's not currently broody, she won't raise the chicks. If the chicks are too old, they won't accept the hen as their mother.
While raising chicks within a flock, it is best to switch everybody to starter/grower or flock raiser feed. The high calcium content of layer can be fatal to developing chicks. And yes, sexlinks and Easter Eggers do tend to need more protein than other breeds, which is why they prefer starter.
 
In order for a hen to accept and raise chicks, the chicks must be under 72 hours old and the hen must be broody for at least 2 weeks prior to giving her chicks. If she's not currently broody, she won't raise the chicks. If the chicks are too old, they won't accept the hen as their mother.
While raising chicks within a flock, it is best to switch everybody to starter/grower or flock raiser feed. The high calcium content of layer can be fatal to developing chicks. And yes, sexlinks and Easter Eggers do tend to need more protein than other breeds, which is why they prefer starter.
junebuggena, thank you very much for that. Down here on Cape Cod the farm store gets day old chicks (allegedly), so, if I have a hen go broody, I could try to time getting the chicks around her broody episode. I wonder what my chances of all the stars aligning: broody hen, day old australoph chicks come in to the farm store? (I'm thinking trying this breed for the 2018 additions to the flock).
Beginning to seem like I may have to continue as I have for past years with the indoor rearing.
 
In order for a hen to accept and raise chicks, the chicks must be under 72 hours old and the hen must be broody for at least 2 weeks prior to giving her chicks. If she's not currently broody, she won't raise the chicks. If the chicks are too old, they won't accept the hen as their mother.
While raising chicks within a flock, it is best to switch everybody to starter/grower or flock raiser feed. The high calcium content of layer can be fatal to developing chicks. And yes, sexlinks and Easter Eggers do tend to need more protein than other breeds, which is why they prefer starter.

X 2 to everything @junebuggena said!
 

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