Miriah132

Songster
Mar 16, 2018
129
136
101
So I have been using a farm innovators styrofoam type incubator and have been using the dry incubation method. I have had 100% fertility with all my own eggs and About 98% with bought or shipped eggs. They develop beautifully with the dry incubation method BUT for some reason at hatch only about half of the eggs hatch out of all the ones that make it to lockdown, shipped/bought and my own. It’s not like I don’t up my humidity(usually between 50-60 but it spikes around 70-80 after a chick hatches. I do eggtopsies and there’s no shrink wrap or sticky chicks, they’re all moved in the right position or pipped and moved into the air cell. I’ve noticed my thermometer will spike to 102 sometimes too after a chick has hatched but not for a long period of time at all. Could it be the temp and humidity spikes? Or what the heck would explain this?
 
Do you open up your air holes? Chicks can suffocate and even drown in the eggs if all isn't correct at hatch.
Most hatches I have one big vent hole open. I have tried one hatch with both open with same results and the humidity was a lot harder to control. (Kept dropping at night)
 
With shipped eggs they just tend to go bad later on. I think it is just damage from shipping but I have seen it happen a lot. They will start out developing well and then many will not last past week 2.
 
With shipped eggs they just tend to go bad later on. I think it is just damage from shipping but I have seen it happen a lot. They will start out developing well and then many will not last past week 2.

This is with my fresh eggs from my backyard flock as well as shipped eggs. So I know it’s not just a shipping issue, tho that could definikty be a factor with the shipped eggs.
 
Air cells are always right on with the charts I have seen. Except for bantams, bantams do not do well with dry incubation for me.
 
When eggs die or quit at lock down the problem is often poor nutrition of the mother or father. The chicks just don't have enough vital energy to live or to pip. Laying pellets are only good enough to produce eggs for you to eat, lay pellets are not intended to make strong & healthy chicks. Also you should rethink your moisture management strategy.
 
When eggs die or quit at lock down the problem is often poor nutrition of the mother or father. The chicks just don't have enough vital energy to live or to pip. Laying pellets are only good enough to produce eggs for you to eat, lay pellets are not intended to make strong & healthy chicks. Also you should rethink your moisture management strategy.

What do you suggest to help with nutrition? I can try to switch my own flicks up and see if it helps. But this happened with eggs from 4 different sources, so I’m not sure that’s the problem. I’m trying a different humidity technique this time around to see if it helps!
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom