Framing wall problem....too tight of a fit

[hayley3]

So I meticulously measured and remeasured......I did a dry fit of one stud with two 2x4's to mimic the top and bottom plate touching the joist above and the fit was loose, and I cut every stud the same length and yet when I put it up there, the fit is too tight and the top of the wall is not going against the post. We have hammered it every which way. It is up there but 2 or more inches away from the top of the post so I know it's twisted.
Even if we take it down, I'm not sure I could remove the nails this nailer shot them in, like shooting a gun. I'm very disappointed that I thought I was gonna have a wall. I can't believe it's too tall. ugggh
Any help appreciated.

 

[21hens-incharge]

Is it still upright(ish)?
Can you post a pic of the problem area?

When measuring for the studs I measure the opening and subtract 3" for the top and bottom plates.

 

[DobieLover]

So I meticulously measured and remeasured......I did a dry fit of one stud with two 2x4's to mimic the top and bottom plate touching the joist above and the fit was loose, and I cut every stud the same length and yet when I put it up there, the fit is too tight and the top of the wall is not going against the post. We have hammered it every which way. It is up there but 2 or more inches away from the top of the post so I know it's twisted.
Even if we take it down, I'm not sure I could remove the nails this nailer shot them in, like shooting a gun. I'm very disappointed that I thought I was gonna have a wall.
Any help appreciated.

Pictures will help... A lot.
What joist and what post?? Is the post plumb and the joist level?

 

[hayley3]

Pictures will help... A lot.
What joist and what post?? Is the post plumb and the joist level?

It's hard to take a pic of the whole thing, so much stuff laying around but I took a pic of the top. The rest of the stud is up against the post just fine.

 

[DouglasB]

Cutting the studs all the same length is ok IF the floor is perfectly level and the joist above are level. Any deviation in these two can make it tight. Usually, the wall can be a little short (1/4 inch) +- to allow for these discrepencies. The fact that you have it almost plumb tells me if you get a bigger hammer you should be able to plumb it up. Beat it plumb and stick a couple more nails in the top.

 

[hayley3]

I think I know what happened......when I measured using two studs as my top and bottom plate, the actual bottom plate that I used is a wet pressure treated board so maybe it is swelled?
I have called for help...hopefully he will come...

Next wall will be 1/4 inch shorter...I switched out my first PT lumber cause it was bowed thinking I would be okay....

 

[hayley3]

Cutting the studs all the same length is ok IF the floor is perfectly level and the joist above are level. Any deviation in these two can make it tight. Usually, the wall can be a little short (1/4 inch) +- to allow for these discrepencies. The fact that you have it almost plumb tells me if you get a bigger hammer you should be able to plumb it up. Beat it plumb and stick a couple more nails in the top.

I hope you are right...I wish I could lift up the joists. LOL

 

[hayley3]

so if my carpenter person doesn't show, I'm thinking of taking a 2x4 and raising up the joists enough so that I can smack the wall into place. It's plan B! LOL

 

[U_Stormcrow]

The hardest thing about retrofits - particularly in a pole barn, it that NOTHING is straight, true, or level. Its true in homes, too.

When you do your next wall, get on a ladder, locate where your attachment points are on the ceiling, drop a plumb bob. Mark the floor. Measure both. Guarantee your top and bottom plates will be different lengths. Frame it up square from the doorway towards the wall attachment point, making use you leave a big enough gap at the end to swing a hammer/nailgun and make your angled "correction" there. A corner can be crooked, a doorway can not.

 

[hayley3]

The hardest thing about retrofits - particularly in a pole barn, it that NOTHING is straight, true, or level. Its true in homes, too.

When you do your next wall, get on a ladder, locate where your attachment points are on the ceiling, drop a plumb bob. Mark the floor. Measure both. Guarantee your top and bottom plates will be different lengths. Frame it up square from the doorway towards the wall attachment point, making use you leave a big enough gap at the end to swing a hammer/nailgun and make your angled "correction" there. A corner can be crooked, a doorway can not.

my carpenter came and he said the big post was not level, so you are definitely right!
I did measure the length of the plates and cut them to be identical.
Leveling is definitely one of my weaknesses. I bought a laser level and have no idea how to use it. I bought a plumb bob but it has no string, I thought they came with string.

Forgot to say, the carpenter got everything straight and nailed in my wall...so one wall is up!