Help, guys AND girls what does this term mean. Wood framing terms: butt to short / butt to long

[conny63malies]

Ok so i got my plans for the future coop , but what the heck is : butt to short and butt to long?????

A – 2X4 stud, 27" butt to short of 14-degree butt cut angle.
B – 2X4 stud, 33&1/8" butt to long of 14-degree butt cut angle.
C – 2X4 stud, 39" butt to long of 14-degree butt cut angle.
D – 2X4 top plate, 49&1/4" short to long butt cut 14-degree angles.​

E – 2X4 pressure treated bottom plate, 48" long.


and also

A – 2X4 stud, 54" butt to short of butt cut 27-degree angle.
B – 2X4 33" long. (2X2 on back see end view drawing above)​

C – 2X4 top plate, 20&1/8" short to long of butt cut 27-degree angles.
picture attached: the length given is it the long side or the shorter side. I dont want to waste wood.

 

[tsaot]

Because you are cutting on a bevel (the 14-degree cut is called a bevel) there is a short side and a long side. The directions are just instructing which side to measure from. The butt is referring to the square end of the board. So when it says butt to short you are measureing from the square end to the short side of your bevel. Another notation to watch out for is S-L, which means short to long with bevels on both end.

 

[conny63malies]

Thanks, the mix of english as a second language and being left handed threw me off. Plus i never worked with a real plan before, i usually wing it. Do you think screwing together with a Kreg jig is a good idea?

Because you are cutting on a bevel (the 14-degree cut is called a bevel) there is a short side and a long side. The directions are just instructing which side to measure from. The butt is referring to the square end of the board. So when it says butt to short you are measureing from the square end to the short side of your bevel. Another notation to watch out for is S-L, which means short to long with bevels on both end.

 

[tsaot]

I don't think the Kreg jig is neccessasary, but you can if that is what you have. You would lose a little strength with the pocket screws, but that isn't a big deal unless you live in a high wind area Kansas, yea I would use exterior deck screws straight in to the lap joints. The main advantage of the Kreg Jig is hiding the screw heads in cabinetry and furniture. I do suggest that you pre-drill the screw holes as it will prevent splitting.

 

[conny63malies]

No the coop wont be in Kansas, it will be standing in either north central(radcliff) or south eastern Kentucky(London or Corbin). I will , as you might be able to see, build the coop in panels. So i start build in Kansas, store in for some time in Ky in the garage and then either sell it and build another one or just keep it until my husband retires. I am itching to build something. It got a new compound mitersaw,circular saw, table saw, a G2 autohammer and a new drill with 3 batteries.But if you think deck screws are better than i'll use those.

 

[Pico de Gallo]

One of the first things I bought (after my home) was a 20lb box of 2.5", #8 galvanized deck screws. You can never have enough, and better/cheaper to have a ton from the git-go. If I had to do it again I'd buy square or Torx (6pt star) heads instead of phillips...

Ditto on pre-drilling screw holes. When you tire of constantly swapping btwn drillbit and driverbit: buy yourself an impact driver! HUGE improvement.

 

[conny63malies]

I got a old drill so i wouldnt have to swap. Good idea with the huge box of screws. I only have a few leftovers from the dog house and a pound of nails from Walmart. I know for sure i wont use the chicken wire as suggested but upgrade to 1/2in hardware cloth.

One of the first things I bought (after my home) was a 20lb box of 2.5", #8 galvanized deck screws. You can never have enough, and better/cheaper to have a ton from the git-go. If I had to do it again I'd buy square or Torx (6pt star) heads instead of phillips...

Ditto on pre-drilling screw holes. When you tire of constantly swapping btwn drillbit and driverbit: buy yourself an impact driver! HUGE improvement.