HELP!! Hen won't stop pecking smaller hen

thecarmiearmy

Songster
Sep 17, 2019
133
284
157
Nor. Cal
Hello all,

For about a week now one of my hens has been bullying the smaller hen (the one at the bottom of the pecking order.) I know they're doing this because it's hot and they're bored. There's not much to do in their run and I need to extend the length and height of the run. I did not realize they would need more space because they are 3 Bantams. 8' length, around 3' width, and 4' height (kept the height consistent with the other run) felt like it'd be enough. But I realize now that my Bantams want more perches and toys to play with.

I don't have a ton of money to spend on fancy pre-made toys. I need DIY ideas and I just need to find some branches that are safe for them or something.

I'm stressed out because for the past 2 days my bully hen has been non-stop pecking at the smaller hen. The smaller hen has no feathers on her head now and the exposed skin is covered in scabs and pecking sores. I've been coating her exposed skin with Vaseline to try and shield the scabs and skin from anymore damage. I don't have a decent sized kennel to put either of them in and keeping them separated is difficult in my situation. I'm just worried that the next time I come out, the smaller hen won't be alive or will be injured even worse.

I will take any advice and I will post pics of what their run and coop down below. Also please don't recommend pinless peepers. I did my research and the idea of my girls not being able to see and having something attached to their nostrils sounds very unpleasant.
 
Here's their current set up. The re-purposed dresser is their coop. Except the prefer sleeping on top of that little table with the yellow box, because they like to sleep on a perch rather than the ground. The tied up table is a "swing" that we're (me and my roommate) are testing out. The chickens don't like it lol.
 

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Take off the ropes on the swing and just set it on the ground so it at least can serve as an extra piece of clutter. Can you get some extra stuff to throw on the floor for them to interact with, like dried short mowed grass from an unfertilized lawn? Or pull some weeds and throw in the clumps. Just some busy work for them to dig through.

In addition you're probably going to have to find a way to separate the bullied bird or the bully (like wire off a section of the run for one or the other), just so the one with damage can recover somewhat, or else you may not have 3 birds by the time you expand the set up.
 
Also take the yellow box off the little table. Chickens like to roost as high up as they can get, and that yellow box is it right now. They don't want to roost on the ground because they feel vulnerable there. Nature has built in them a desire to "go high," so provide them a roost where they can feel safe. They are by nature tree-dwellers, not cave-dwellers. What can you put in the dresser to act as a roost? A branch? A 2x4 screwed in half way up, 4" side up (so it's flat)? Be sure it is far enough away from the back to allow room for tail feathers. Good luck!
 
Hello all, sorry for the radio silence. This week I worked on splitting the chicken run in half using some chicken wire. Bully hen stays on one end and the rooster and other hen stay in the other half. The bullied hen seems to be doing better, not having to worry about being constantly harassed. Both hens are starting to grow their feathers back.

I also took your suggestions and took down the swing. But I did leave the yellow box on the table, because it's the only spot the bully hen will lay her eggs / now she sleeps in there.

Now there's even less space for the Bantams to run around and they're not happy about it either. I'll need to lengthen the run and widen it if I can, too. I want to build them a top floor so they can roost properly. I'm very new to building and it's kind of intimidating, my first creation was that chicken run. I also don't have a ton of money for supplies... But if need be I do have a credit card. I just want them to be happy so we ALL don't have to stress about room.
 
Cheap toys you say? An apple, refrigerated since it's hot in your area, works really well if you just cut a small chunk out of one side and let them be attracted to the shocking white of the fruit vs the color of the skin. A head of green cabbage (mine won't touch the purple cabbage) attached with a rope or bungee cord from the ceiling (tetherball anyone?). A cantaloupe, cut in half, seeds and all. Cold slices of watermelon, seeds and all. My girls love love love bananas, just take one portion of the skin off to expose the inner fruit and let them have-at-it. Corn on the cob is a huge hit around here. Canned peaches (served cold, and preferably packed in their own juice if possible) can work as a super hydrating and interesting treat. Maraschino cherries are also a hit, the bright red really gets their attention.
As with most treats, these will reduce their overall protein intake, so no more than 10% of their total diet can be spent on treats.
If you wish to increase their protein and calcium intake with a treat, try mashing a can of sardines into some of their regular feed; this option will help them regrow their feathers faster.
Add a large rock (brick?) to their run, turn the rock once weekly to allow them to discover the bugs that take up residence under it. Sometimes, you can do this same 'trick' just by moving their feeder...
 

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