Insulating the coop?

KnightsMist

Songster
5 Years
Jan 18, 2019
125
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174
Massachusetts
I live in the northeast and we get cold winter as well as hot summers. I'm thinking ahead to when I build a coop- do people typically insulate theirs? Walls, roof, both? If so, what do you use? I have read about mice getting into it, so not sure. But in my climate it seems like it would be a good idea...would love your feedback! :)
 
I live in the northeast and we get cold winter as well as hot summers. I'm thinking ahead to when I build a coop- do people typically insulate theirs? Walls, roof, both? If so, what do you use? I have read about mice getting into it, so not sure. But in my climate it seems like it would be a good idea...would love your feedback! :)

No problem with insulation, just cover behind wall. It would definitely help in winter. To avoid frostbite in winter insulating coop is recommended. Proper ventilation would include high vents that are draft free especially over roosting bars.
 
I live in New York, and used double bubble insulation. It’s silver so it’s reflective in summer, and keeps the coop draft free in winter. It’s super easy to put up, just used a staple gun. I just did the walls, the roof is metal and has a layer of wood underneath it.
 
Im from ontario CAN. I definitely habe to insulate!! My wall are insulated with RX to a very high level. Weve been in the -30 to -40 CELCIUS the past month. I am actually taking in 3 hens from a man tomorrow because 4 of his 7 died of cold because he didnt have the proper outfit for them. the floor isint insulated but i am doing the deep litter methode. We will be insulating the roof this summer to go more all out. .I beleive my coop is at around -15 when the outside temp is around -30°C
 
I’m also in Ontario and my coop is insulated. I used foam board so if a rodent did manage to get in it wouldn’t be so inviting. I did the walls and roof. I didn’t bother with the floor since there’s a few inches of shavings down.

I’ve got 5 girls they keep the coop 2-3C above the outside temp overnight. In the summer they spend the hot afternoons in the coop napping.

Ventilation is still key.
 
I’m in Northern NY and I don’t have insulation or heat. I’m considering doing reflective bubble insulation this summer. It is currently -2 outside with a windchill of - 22F and my coop is 8 degrees, my Seramas and Silkies are doing great. I’ve gotten ALOT of snow the last couple weeks so that is helping with windblock and insulating. Research ventilation, then research it again. This is where I messed up not understanding ventilation types and roof overhangs. I have enough ventilation but it’s a struggle keep snow from blowing in. If I ever build another coop it will be a wood’s style coop, if you search you’ll find some great examples on here. I wish I had access to this book when I build my coop it really helps explain the importance of fresh air and sunlight needs of poultry and helps put your mind at rest about them getting cold. http://gnipsel.com/files/chickens/mfaph.pdf
 
When I build mine I did not insulate my walls but I did put Relfectix bubble insulation in the roof. For me this actually serves 2 purposes, first it does provide some insulation and heat retention in the winter but the main reason I did it was to cover the screws that came through the roof decking to prevent any of my girls jumping into them.

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Insulation may be needed, but not for the reasons most of us think it is. We tend to think in terms of our comfort. Birds needs are different.

The need for insulation depends on climate, but also on building materials. A house that uses metal for sides and roof will radiate heat inside in summer and heat out in winter. So insulation is a good idea to buffer this affect out of it. That is as true down south as it is up north. A dark colored metal clad house may get a heat rise in summer that is every bit as dangerous to the birds (if they are forced to say in) as any cold is up north. So insulation keeps that heat out. Done right, an insulated house in summer may be cooler inside than out, vs. a sweat box death trap if not insulated.

As to the cold, each bird generates about the same amount of heat as a 10 watt night light. Collectively, a flock of birds will generate quite a lot of radiant heat, that if retained inside, both warms the house and creates enough air movement to move the warm moist air up and out IF you have good ventilation. Insulation will prevent the metal sides and roof from radiating that out The right kind of insulation will also isolate the cold metal roofing from the warm moist air to help prevent condensation, which will then drip down on the birds. Cold and wet are not good. A metal roof should always have insulation beneath it. Bubble stuff or sheet goods, but always put insulation under a metal roof.

A house with proper ventilation and insulation may result in a heat rise of +10F over outside temps. Birds are OK down to about 0F, so a well built, insulated house may allow them to get past -10F with few issues. The right type of birds far below that. Keeping water from freezing is the big issue then.

If insulation IS used, avoid the fiberglass batts. It is a perfect place to harbor rats and mice. Use a thin layer of foil faced polyiso insulation. And it will need to be covered to protect it from the birds, who will peck at it if exposed.

Again, if you are far enough north that you feel insulation is a must, you then need to be considering what birds you will be keeping, and it won't be those with large exposed combs and wattles. You need to be raising birds better adapted to the cold.

You want high and dry. High is well drained and leads to dry, and well ventilated IS dry and dry is warm. Wet is cold.
 

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