Insulation against heat for metal coop

[Coolbreeze89]

I have an old white metal coop on my property in central Texas. It faces ESE, the entire front is wire mesh and there is a mesh-covered opening at the top of the back wall for air flow-through. It’s floor is “dirt” (here my land is all sand) but I buried 1/2” hardware cloth so predators can’t get in. It gets HOT in the summer because it has very little shade. I’ve never used it because of this, but my current coop has seen better days. I’ve read other threads here about insulating using foam board vs the rolls of ‘padded foil’.

Questions:
- experience on rolled vs foam board?
- is insulating just the roof likely to be adequate? If so, I’m assuming the foam board with higher r-value is the way to go?
- if wall insulation needed, anyone have cost-effective covering for the material so the birds don’t eat it?

Any other words of wisdom? I have considered cutting another vent panel and will do it if needed.

Thanks!

 

[FowlProtector]

Here’s a helpful way to reply based on the questions you've raised about the insulation for your coop:

1. Rolled vs. Foam Board Insulation:
   • Rolled Insulation (Padded Foil): This is generally easier to handle and install, but it might not provide as high of an R-value as foam board. It’s good for reflecting heat but can be less effective at providing solid thermal insulation, especially in hot climates.
   • Foam Board Insulation: Typically offers a higher R-value, which means better insulation overall. It’s especially helpful for reducing heat buildup in a structure like a metal coop. The foam board can be cut to fit, and you can attach it to the roof and walls. You’d get better performance in keeping the heat out and the cooler air inside.
2. Insulating the Roof:
   • Roof Insulation: Insulating the roof could make a big difference in the coop's temperature. Since heat rises, the roof is often the area that absorbs the most sun. Foam board with a higher R-value is a good choice here for a noticeable difference.
   • Walls: If you find that just the roof insulation isn’t enough, you may need to consider the walls as well. Especially during the hot summers, the walls can absorb heat and radiate it inside. Foam board would help here too, though you’ll need a way to cover it to keep the birds from pecking at it.
3. Cost-effective Wall Coverage:
   • If you’re covering foam board insulation, use a wooden or metal covering. Plywood is a cost-effective option and can easily be mounted over the foam board. This prevents the birds from eating the material. You could also consider using hardboard panels or vinyl sheeting, depending on your budget and desired aesthetics.
   • Alternatively, using chicken wire or another kind of mesh over the foam could also keep it safe from pecking if you’re concerned about cost.
4. Other Considerations:
   • Ventilation: It's great that you're considering adding more vent panels. Ventilation will be key to ensuring proper airflow, especially in a hot climate. Adding more ventilation while ensuring it doesn’t let in predators or excessive rain could help regulate the temperature and air quality.
   • Shade: Another simple addition could be a shade structure on the outside, like a tarp or a simple canopy to protect the coop from direct sunlight.
   • Air Circulation: Fans or solar-powered ventilation could also make a significant difference in cooling the coop if the temperature is high.

Would you like more specific tips on any of these ideas or help with sourcing materials?

 

[Coolbreeze89]

Here’s a helpful way to reply based on the questions you've raised about the insulation for your coop:

1. Rolled vs. Foam Board Insulation:
   • Rolled Insulation (Padded Foil): This is generally easier to handle and install, but it might not provide as high of an R-value as foam board. It’s good for reflecting heat but can be less effective at providing solid thermal insulation, especially in hot climates.
   • Foam Board Insulation: Typically offers a higher R-value, which means better insulation overall. It’s especially helpful for reducing heat buildup in a structure like a metal coop. The foam board can be cut to fit, and you can attach it to the roof and walls. You’d get better performance in keeping the heat out and the cooler air inside.
2. Insulating the Roof:
   • Roof Insulation: Insulating the roof could make a big difference in the coop's temperature. Since heat rises, the roof is often the area that absorbs the most sun. Foam board with a higher R-value is a good choice here for a noticeable difference.
   • Walls: If you find that just the roof insulation isn’t enough, you may need to consider the walls as well. Especially during the hot summers, the walls can absorb heat and radiate it inside. Foam board would help here too, though you’ll need a way to cover it to keep the birds from pecking at it.
3. Cost-effective Wall Coverage:
   • If you’re covering foam board insulation, use a wooden or metal covering. Plywood is a cost-effective option and can easily be mounted over the foam board. This prevents the birds from eating the material. You could also consider using hardboard panels or vinyl sheeting, depending on your budget and desired aesthetics.
   • Alternatively, using chicken wire or another kind of mesh over the foam could also keep it safe from pecking if you’re concerned about cost.
4. Other Considerations:
   • Ventilation: It's great that you're considering adding more vent panels. Ventilation will be key to ensuring proper airflow, especially in a hot climate. Adding more ventilation while ensuring it doesn’t let in predators or excessive rain could help regulate the temperature and air quality.
   • Shade: Another simple addition could be a shade structure on the outside, like a tarp or a simple canopy to protect the coop from direct sunlight.
   • Air Circulation: Fans or solar-powered ventilation could also make a significant difference in cooling the coop if the temperature is high.

Would you like more specific tips on any of these ideas or help with sourcing materials?

Wow. Thank you for such a detailed, thoughtful reply. Based on your insights adding to my research, I will start with foam board under the roof and see how it goes, then I’ll add foam inside the sides if the temp gets too high. I‘m thinking for sides (if needed) to not go all the way to ground level to reduce risk of mice getting behind the plywood.

My wind generally blows west to east, so they have good protection from wind. I’ll add a second window on that back wall based on the temps.

Thank you again. You really helped me see things a bit more clearly. Excessive research often leads me to feeling like I have “too many” options to see the best.

Have a fabulous day!

 

[SourRoses]

One reliable way to protect against heat transfer is an attic / sub structure method. There's a reason most human housing uses this method.
If you have an air pocket between the metal walls and roof, with board forming the interior walls, allowing the heat to flow up behind the walls up under the roof and out to some roof ventilation at the highest point (such as a cupola or ridge vent)... that protects the interior space from radiant heat. An inch gap should be sufficient. You also need an air intake behind the walls down very low, an equal size to the output ventilation up high. That allows the chimney effect to work.

 

[Coolbreeze89]

One reliable way to protect against heat transfer is an attic / sub structure method. There's a reason most human housing uses this method.
If you have an air pocket between the metal walls and roof, with board forming the interior walls, allowing the heat to flow up behind the walls up under the roof and out to some roof ventilation at the highest point (such as a cupola or ridge vent)... that protects the interior space from radiant heat. An inch gap should be sufficient. You also need an air intake behind the walls down very low, an equal size to the output ventilation up high. That allows the chimney effect to work.

This is perfect - I’m going to have to attach 2x4s under the metal so I can attach the foam to them. I’ll make sure they’re oriented with the slope of the roof, and I’ll leave a small gap in the foam at the back wall for incoming air. Im
Already thinking wall foam would have to start above ground level due to rodents, so I’ll be sure to have a space that connects to the space above the roof insulation.


Ooh, I like how this is coming together. This is why I love this group. Thanks!

 

[SourRoses]

This is perfect - I’m going to have to attach 2x4s under the metal so I can attach the foam to them. I’ll make sure they’re oriented with the slope of the roof, and I’ll leave a small gap in the foam at the back wall for incoming air. Im
Already thinking wall foam would have to start above ground level due to rodents, so I’ll be sure to have a space that connects to the space above the roof insulation.


Ooh, I like how this is coming together. This is why I love this group. Thanks!

I'm happy to hear you have a good plan! But just so you know, you don't have to use insulation with the sub structure method. It could be a simple wooden interior wall, as long as it's solid and no gaps into the coop, the air itself in an active chimney flow would be cooling. Then you don't have to worry about rodents, although some HW cloth on the ground where the walls meet could certainly help. Maybe just price it out and see what works for you.

Here in FL, all of our coops have had at least one open wall of ventilation with HW cloth. As long as the sun isn't beaming in on that side.

 

[fivehorizons888]

When using foil sided insulation board under a metal roof, which side should the foil face? Should it face down towards the chickens or up towards the roof side? thanks!