integrating one pullet into a flock of two in an Eglu

TheRealKirsten

In the Brooder
Aug 24, 2024
11
4
16
Hi. My integration story was ultimately successful but I think it took longer than it needed to and I wish I'd known what I know now when I started, so I'm posting in case it helps somebody else. I didn't see any posts about my particular circumstances -- one baby, two adults, in an Eglu.

I integrated a 14-week-old Rhode Island Red pullet into a flock of two grown Rhode Island Red hens in a Eglu Cube tractor with a 12' run. Let's call the pullet "the baby." One of the grown hens really had it in for the baby, let's call her "the bully." The other grown hen would sometimes attack the bully when the bully attacked the baby, but sometimes she ganged up on the baby with the bully, let's call her "the boss." They never drew blood but the hens wouldn't let the baby be in the same area of the run with them, and the baby was lonely. Seemed like to me she submitted every time they attacked her. It was hard to watch.

My isolation pen attaches to the Eglu run and I use a little pet house with a door for an isolation coop. I put the baby into the Eglu run only two days after I brought her home because they all seemed to be ignoring each other. I would have waited a week if I had it to do over again.

The baby slept in the isolation coop in the isolation pen the first 17 days after introduction but then she started sleeping in the Eglu coop with the older hens. Sleeping together in the coop started long before the hens stopped persecuting the baby. They must have had some sort of chicken truce that applied to the coop. It seemed like all three of them wanted the baby to be in the Eglu coop at night.

I made several changes during the first 16 days after introducing her and if I had it to do over again I would have made these changes before introducing her. I don't remember the order I did this in other than that the hanging bucket was last. Here they are:
  1. installed a perch in the run -- this gave the baby another way to evade the hens
  2. moved the three food dishes farther apart from each other -- I started out with three food dishes but I think I had them too close together at first
  3. drilled holes in a short plank of wood and hung it from the side of the pen with tie wraps so it made a triangular place for the baby to hide from the hens. Another hole and I could flip it upwards and sacrifice a tie-wrap when I moved the coop.
  4. day 16 of introduction: Realized that the sight of the baby was enough to make the bully build up a head of steam and decided to do something to break the line of sight. I hung an upside down 5-gallon bucket from the roof of the run using a rope and fender washers and an S-hook so it won't get knocked over and so I can lift it up when I move the coop. The day after I put this in, the baby started sleeping in the Eglu coop with the other hens
The baby and the hens didn't start huddling together until 2 months and a week after I introduced her to the main coop -- seven weeks after they started sleeping in the coop together. In perhaps related news, the baby started laying right around the same time the older hens accepted her.

They're fine now, whew. It was discouraging sometimes because it didn't seem like they were making any progress. There is still some chasing but the baby is not lonely any more. I'm leaving the perch and the bucket in the run, it makes it more interesting for them. The baby is the only one that uses the perch. I was surprised when she started laying because the older two didn't start laying until after they got their combs and wattles. The baby has been laying for three weeks now and she doesn't have a comb or wattles.
 
Smaller setups do indeed make for tougher integrations. Glad it all worked out in the end
Hi. My integration story was ultimately successful but I think it took longer than it needed to and I wish I'd known what I know now when I started, so I'm posting in case it helps somebody else. I didn't see any posts about my particular circumstances -- one baby, two adults, in an Eglu.

I integrated a 14-week-old Rhode Island Red pullet into a flock of two grown Rhode Island Red hens in a Eglu Cube tractor with a 12' run. Let's call the pullet "the baby." One of the grown hens really had it in for the baby, let's call her "the bully." The other grown hen would sometimes attack the bully when the bully attacked the baby, but sometimes she ganged up on the baby with the bully, let's call her "the boss." They never drew blood but the hens wouldn't let the baby be in the same area of the run with them, and the baby was lonely. Seemed like to me she submitted every time they attacked her. It was hard to watch.

My isolation pen attaches to the Eglu run and I use a little pet house with a door for an isolation coop. I put the baby into the Eglu run only two days after I brought her home because they all seemed to be ignoring each other. I would have waited a week if I had it to do over again.

The baby slept in the isolation coop in the isolation pen the first 17 days after introduction but then she started sleeping in the Eglu coop with the older hens. Sleeping together in the coop started long before the hens stopped persecuting the baby. They must have had some sort of chicken truce that applied to the coop. It seemed like all three of them wanted the baby to be in the Eglu coop at night.

I made several changes during the first 16 days after introducing her and if I had it to do over again I would have made these changes before introducing her. I don't remember the order I did this in other than that the hanging bucket was last. Here they are:
  1. installed a perch in the run -- this gave the baby another way to evade the hens
  2. moved the three food dishes farther apart from each other -- I started out with three food dishes but I think I had them too close together at first
  3. drilled holes in a short plank of wood and hung it from the side of the pen with tie wraps so it made a triangular place for the baby to hide from the hens. Another hole and I could flip it upwards and sacrifice a tie-wrap when I moved the coop.
  4. day 16 of introduction: Realized that the sight of the baby was enough to make the bully build up a head of steam and decided to do something to break the line of sight. I hung an upside down 5-gallon bucket from the roof of the run using a rope and fender washers and an S-hook so it won't get knocked over and so I can lift it up when I move the coop. The day after I put this in, the baby started sleeping in the Eglu coop with the other hens
The baby and the hens didn't start huddling together until 2 months and a week after I introduced her to the main coop -- seven weeks after they started sleeping in the coop together. In perhaps related news, the baby started laying right around the same time the older hens accepted her.

They're fine now, whew. It was discouraging sometimes because it didn't seem like they were making any progress. There is still some chasing but the baby is not lonely any more. I'm leaving the perch and the bucket in the run, it makes it more interesting for them. The baby is the only one that uses the perch. I was surprised when she started laying because the older two didn't start laying until after they got their combs and wattles. The baby has been laying for three weeks now and she doesn't have a comb or wattles.
I have a followup to this integration story. I thought the baby was a mutant because it seemed like she wasn't maturing sexually (small wattles and comb) and she was bigger than my other Rhode Island Reds, but now I think she's a Buckeye. A mix-up at the retailer? Maybe. That could be part of the reason why she was so rejected.
 
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Are they all the same breed? I'm curious because of your comments about the combs and wattles.
I don't think you saw the update I posted today, maybe I did it wrong because it's hard for me to find it in this thread. But you hit the nail on the head. Here's my update from today: "I have a followup to this integration story. I thought the baby was a mutant because it seemed like she wasn't maturing sexually (small wattles and comb) and she was bigger than my other Rhode Island Reds, but now I think she's a Buckeye. A mix-up at the retailer? Maybe. That could be part of the reason why she was so rejected."
 
The different breed shouldn’t make any difference unless the newbie is a lot smaller.
I keep my babies in the baby cage for at least two weeks.
I’m getting two more on Friday and will be putting the plastic Wendy house inside a fruit cage for two weeks (with a perch and cat litter tray filled with hemp shavings just incase they want to lay an egg).
Then I, supervised, let them out. If there’s no blood I leave them to it and remove the Wendy house. Normally there’s a bit of warnings off but that’s all.

I think everyone has there own introduction method, mine works well for me.

Naughty of the supplier to get it wrong though, very naughty. Under the circumstances I might even consider exchanging her before you get too attached, remember that you will have her for a long time.
 
When you just put a new bird in with others, there's bound to be problems. It usually works best if you can introduce a new bird on the other side of a fence, so they can see each other but not have physical contact for at least a week, preferably two, before removing the barrier and letting them mingle. We call this the "see-no-touch" method of integration.
 

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