Mobile tractor plans

[mendozer]

I've got a rooster i need to separate because I don't have enough hens to support two roosters. I'll keep two of the hens with him but this is my chance for a meat flock. My normal coop is stationary with a fenced in run. This one would be mobile and I've thought about it a lot and settled on two possible styles...A frame and cattle panel hoop style. Both are structurally sound for snow, lightweight, offer a place inside to make an elevated coop, etc. The cattle panel is possibly preferred from the standpoint that it's cheaper and bigger to stand in. However for A frame I'd use 3/4 EMT conduit and structural connectors so it would still be light. Only the coop itself will be framed in wood and I'll use lightweight cedar boards and maybe a slotted floor for ease of poop disposal and keeping weight down. Any input on either of the two if you'd done it? The coop I have now is my 4th. I've done the two story coop/run hybrid, the stationary apartment/run combo, full coop/attached run style etc, but not these two. The biggest burden for me will be water. I use a rain barrel on my coop for water so this one will have to have a bucket that I'll fill more often sadly but that's ok. Maybe I can channel water off the roof into that as well.

 

[NorthwoodsChick]

Maybe I can channel water off the roof into that as well.

If you end up with a good design for this, please share with pictures.

 

[DLA]

user @dheltzel has website: welbars.com. At the top right of the webpage under extras/the perfect chicken coop has some wonderful designs/tips with pictures.

 

[mendozer]

If you end up with a good design for this, please share with pictures.

will do. The A frame would do much better with the water channeling but it's possible with the Cattle Hoop too.

 

[Penpal]

We had the cattle panel design for our donkey shelter. It stands up very well to high winds because of the aerodynamic design. 100 mph winds did bend one of the panels a little. It used 2 x 4 framing so it was heavy and quite difficult to move. I hitched up a donkey when I wanted to move it.

 

[NorthwoodsChick]

This is the tractor hubby and I built. It is too heavy for me to drag so I lower the wheels, hook up the atv winch to a pulling rope and move it easily.

 

[mendozer]

I don't have a donkey....or an atv. this is why i'm thinking of 3/4 and 1/2 conduit for the framing. Something will have to be wood i'm sure but those pipes are pretty light and strong. I even saw one coop made of coroplast, the plastic sheeting the political signs are made of. I can deadlift my bodyweight just fine so as long as it's under 200 lbs this will be easy. worse case scenario i get a trailer dolly and pull it that way

 

[mendozer]

this is what i'm thinking. I decided I don't like the A frame. Makerpipe sells 135 degree conduit brackets which is basically what a farm style shed looks like. I can use those for the roof then 90 and adjustable ones for the rest including T bar brackets for intermediate supports. The panel may still be easier but this might be more sturdy and allow for a traditionally framed coop without heavy lumber

 

[mendozer]

I would funnel the gutters into a tote supported off the ground on a cross pipe, full of poultry nipples. the door on the back would be big enough for me to remove the food tote with bucket hole ports for filling. I'm thinking 6x12. I will have a rooster with two hens for sure with him then 12 meat chickens and 2 turkeys. The meat chickens will be gone in the 4-5 months then it'll just be turkeys until thanksgiving. then the three again until the next spring. I think the 72 sq ft should be fine.

 

[mendozer]

looks like if I did a hoop style it would be a bit heavier although cheaper. I'm at $500 already with just conduit and fittings. I'm thinking I need to keep the coop elevated. It's not as important for just summer time broilers but the three or more chickens that will live in there year round will need a solid setup