Possible Chicken Coop Plans, MA. Need Help and Ideas to help my continued planning

[Chicken Adam]

Hello Y’all. As i introduced in a previous post I am doing research and planing for a chicken license. This is a very rough draft of a chicken coop id like to build. 8’ X 12’ single slanted roof to house ~30is chickens down the road. Plus the coop will be raise a bit and able to be moved if I choose to take it with me if I move. I am also in a small city in South Shore, Massachusetts. According to the livestock chicken laws set into place by city board of health there is no limitation on max count of chickens just that the minimal sf in the coop must be 2 sq ft. There is no building permit required for sheds less than 200 sq ft. And no roosters allowed which is fine.

Okay back to the very rough plans for the coop: I’m thinking elevated by 6” with the floor being 6” as well. For the first photo it shows the plans for top view of the skeletal floor plan. 4” x 6” for the perimeter with 2” x 4”s inside. You can see the side view of just the floor plan. However I want to know if I should put a support beam in the middle to support the center or should I do it for the 2nd and 4th 2” x 4”. Also if I so the support post I will replace the 2” x 4”s with 4” x 4”s as the support post are all 4” x 4“s to hold the shed. Also there is a spacing of 2ft between the beams.

Second photo is the side view. The on the left this side would be visible and we are thinking of doing double doors. Barn like style possibly. Not sure if we should buy the doors, build them or get regular double doors. Not sure. Want it to be as draft free as possible as what I have read we have to make the coop as draft free as possible to keep it from freezing the chickens in the winter. I’m also thinking of doing ventilation on the triangles of the side walls and a vent of two on the roof. I’ll probably also add a window or two on the wall with the doors. It just depends on what I find for doors or plan to build. Any ideas or suggestions for doors and to ensure they are not drafty is highly wanted.

Third photo are two ideas for what I was thinking for supporting legs for the 2 12’ sides. These would be the supporting walls for the roof as the beams for the roof will line up with the wall beams. Which one would be more ideal 1 in the center or the 2 placed with the 2nd and 4th beam. These are 2’ from the centers. Is this ideal as I know the roof will be lined up with these as well. 6’ Wall will be what is seen and the 5’ is facing the fence. Not sure where I’ll place the windows and vents on these walls. Definetly want 2 or 3 windows on the 6’ high wall. I’m also thinking of doing the nesting box on this wall. I’ll have ventilation from the roofing beams as there will be space between beams.

Also other things we have decided with is foam insulation boards on the outer walls before siding goes on.
What is better vinyl flooring or cheap tiling? Want to have good floors that are easy to clean and keep bacterial from taking root in the wood and limit decomposing of wood from manure and soiled bedding.
Also anyone know how to do the beams for the roofs of single slant roofs. I’ve watch a few videos and I’m not getting it at the moment. Anything to help me understand it more would be greatly helpful.
Also what would be good for the roof? Metal? Classic Shingles? Or Something Else. We do get snow in the winters. Usually on the light side but occasionally do get 2+ feet.
Any thoughts on what I have so far and things to help me with my plans are strongly encouraged.

Thanks Y’all!!!

 

[DobieLover]

minimal sf in the coop must be 2 sq ft.

That is not enough space for chickens. Especially when kept in northern climates where they are limited in outdoor time. If you will not be building a predator proof attached run with a solid roof then you need to shoot for a minimum of 4 sq ft per bird.
I can't imagine forcing my flock to strictly occupy the coop for weeks to months during winter when events like this happen.

I want to know if I should put a support beam in the middle to support the center

This is not necessary with the span of your design. The 2 long walls are load bearing.

beams

You don't have any beams in your design.
You have 4x6s that are going serve as a floating foundation, 2x6 floor joists set at 24"OC, 2x4 wall studs also set 24"OC, and 2x6 rafters set over the studs on top of top+tie plates.
Terminology will help tremendously in communication and understanding.

Want it to be as draft free as possible as what I have read we have to make the coop as draft free as possible to keep it from freezing the chickens in the winter.

Don't mistake human drafts with chicken drafts. Chickens need huge amounts of fresh air. You just don't want any breezes blowing through the coop at roost level that are strong enough to open feathers.
Below is a shot captured on Jan 5, 2020. The light between the rafters is 1/2" hardware secured open ventilation as is the roof peak on both ends. There is also a ridge vent running the length of the roof line. The 2 pop doors in the coop are always left open year round as the coop has a predator proof run with a solid roof attached to it. I also have two additional windows that are left cracked open year round in the front storage area away from the roosts.

I’ll probably also add a window or two

Or 4 or 6...

Any ideas or suggestions for doors

I found an old exterior grade steel door someone had tossed to the curb and I snagged it, repaired the bottom and reframed my entry wall to receive it.
I'd look on Marketplace or CL for an old exterior door to use.

roofing beams

Rafters

foam insulation boards on the outer walls before siding goes on.

Not necessary or a good idea as the chickens will peck away at it and eat it.

What is better vinyl flooring or cheap tiling?

3 coats of well cured Porch & Floor paint does fine.

Want to have good floors that are easy to clean and keep bacterial from taking root in the wood and limit decomposing of wood from manure and soiled bedding.

Then install poop boards to catch the nightly load. To me, these are the crown jewel of chicken manure management. It's so easy to walk in and scoop the boards off in the morning. I use an old cat litter bucket to put the poop in and when it's full it gets dumped in a compost pile.

anyone know how to do the beams for the roofs of single slant roofs.

Yes.
You need a steeper pitch on your mono-pitch roof. You are proposing a 1.5:12 pitch and that does not meet minimum code.
I would raise the front wall to 8' and the rear wall to 6' (to avoid head bashing) to bring your pitch to 3:12.

Also what would be good for the roof? Metal? Classic Shingles?

If you do a metal roof, I would put an OSB roof deck and felt paper down over the rafters first, just like you'd do for a shingle roof. Either is fine.

 

[Chicken Adam]

That is not enough space for chickens. Especially when kept in northern climates where they are limited in outdoor time. If you will not be building a predator proof attached run with a solid roof then you need to shoot for a minimum of 4 sq ft per bird.
I can't imagine forcing my flock to strictly occupy the coop for weeks to months during winter when events like this happen.
View attachment 3917486

That square footage I was just writing down from what the city recommends. For what I was going for is between 3 and 4 sq ft per. In my location we are saved by the ocean to not have snow like that for the most part. In the south shore of MA we don’t see the snow western MA see. We’ll get 6” and everyone north west of us will get 1’+ of snow. There is an occasion we get that up to 2’ of snow. Like when we had a dog I will shovel out their run so they can run around if they please.

Terminology will help tremendously in communication and understanding.

Yeah I have to continue to try and remember all this new terminology.

Don't mistake human drafts with chicken drafts. Chickens need huge amounts of fresh air. You just don't want any breezes blowing through the coop at roost level that are strong enough to open feathers.

So what is the recommended spacing above and below a roosting chicken? Say chicken is roosting @ 3’ and chicken is 8inches tall during the night roosting. How high and how low should the open ventilation be at a minimum? This way I can add this to my thinking box when planning the fine details.

Below is a shot captured on Jan 5, 2020. The light between the rafters is 1/2" hardware secured open ventilation as is the roof peak on both ends. There is also a ridge vent running the length of the roof line. The 2 pop doors in the coop are always left open year round as the coop has a predator proof run with a solid roof attached to it. I also have two additional windows that are left cracked open year round in the front storage area away from the roosts.
View attachment 3917470

How far are the windows that are left open? My interior is just an idea right now and not put on paper yet.

I'd look on Marketplace or CL for an old exterior door to use.

I’ll check these places out when the time comes closer. I can’t get anything for the coop until I have approval for the license from the BOH.

Then install poop boards to catch the nightly load. To me, these are the crown jewel of chicken manure management. It's so easy to walk in and scoop the boards off in the morning. I use an old cat litter bucket to put the poop in and when it's full it gets dumped in a compost pile.

This is something I’ve been thinking of. I’ve been thinking of whether I want 2 tier or 3 tier roosting rods. If I do the poop boards I may not be able to do the tiers like I was thinking. It also depends on my spacing when I figure it out and where I’m putting my nesting boxes.

Yes.
You need a steeper pitch on your mono-pitch roof. You are proposing a 1.5:12 pitch and that does not meet minimum code.
I would raise the front wall to 8' and the rear wall to 6' (to avoid head bashing) to bring your pitch to 3:12.

Do you have the formula or an easy to explain way of figuring out the degree, how much to cut for both sides of the rafter and how to get this ratio?
For me if I am going to have chickens roosting along the 5’ wall I definetly won’t have to worry about bumping my head. Also we are short people. No one more then 6’ 6”. And have one side lower then the other doesn’t bother me.

If you do a metal roof, I would put an OSB roof deck and felt paper down over the rafters first, just like you'd do for a shingle roof. Either is fine.

Okay.

 

[SandyRiverChick]

I'll admit I didn't read every post but the coop is one thing; How much land do you have for 30chickens? I have 15 in a 112sq foot coop. Granted I could add more but waaaaay more room than any ordinance is better for their health and mine. My 15 have 2 acres to roam. I've been doing this long enough to know that 30 chickens will decimate a small area very quickly. They don't trample roots and eat every single thing like goats and horses but they do scratch up all living things without deep, established roots.

 

[Chicken Adam]

We live on a lot of about 4,000sq ft. We were planning 10sq ft per chicken. The run would be 300 sq ft at minimum, possibly bigger depending on how it appears in the back yard. This is double what the city says. We will be adding chickens over time so we are not starting with 30. Just that we can go up to 30. We can’t do free roam, they will have to be in a run due to us being in the city.

 

[SandyRiverChick]

You've probably seen this:

3 chickens need at least:

• 12 square feet in the coop,
  • 30 square feet in the run,
  • 3 linear feet of roost,
  • 1 nest (or 2 to give them a choice),
  • And 3 square feet of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, best located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

I wouldn't discourage you from having chickens but is there a reason why you want to scale to so many given the limited space? I truly can't imagine even my flock of half that amount in a small lot. I know folks do it but it's so uncomfortable for them and you. Maybe you'll do a small flock instead... Good Luck, Enjoy!

 

[Henny Jenny]

We live on a lot of about 4,000sq ft. We were planning 10sq ft per chicken. The run would be 300 sq ft at minimum, possibly bigger depending on how it appears in the back yard. This is double what the city says. We will be adding chickens over time so we are not starting with 30. Just that we can go up to 30. We can’t do free roam, they will have to be in a run due to us being in the city.

One thing we found we liked on our plan was having at least 18"- 24" or more under the coop so they can shade themselves or if a predator walks by the run they can run under as well as in the coop but when the spring thaw hits we have to get under there and get it all cleaned out. Sometimes we have a hen that decides she's going to sleep under the coop or some little ones getting used to the coop/run and you have to climb under and retrieve them so make sure you raise the coop enough that you're comfortable climbing under there.

I think you are smart to start small and build your way up. Because mine are in a run full time I grow an excess of cabbage and kale in the summer and feed it to mine through out the year (cost effective). I hang the cabbage on strings through the winter so they are entertained. I also use a chicken vitamin supplement, dulse, fruits and veggies in season, along with grit, calcium and scratch. This keeps them entertained and from plucking and being bored. Having them in the run is more expensive for me but I cannot have them out so I do not have a choice. It also requires more chips and cleaning throughout the year. I also have a few large branches a swing and some stumps to keep them entertained and so they can run around. Good luck with your coop! Sounds like you're getting a solid plan together before you get started. Smart!

 

[RojoMarz]

Our coop roof is similar to your plan. We do have a larger variance between front and back though. In the front, we put a clear corregated panel and it allows sunlight in. I love the "skylight" and inside light it allows.

 

[paintedChix]

Happy New Year!!

Have you built your coop/run yet? Gotten chicks last fall or getting soon?