Question About Building vs. Buying a Chicken Run

[Nicksa]

I’m getting 4 bantams in March and need some advice on a chicken run. I live in western North Carolina and have a couple of acres of property. Predators are a big concern here and the chickens will be in the run most of the time —I’ve got pretty much every North American predator except big cats and wolves (bears are extremely uncommon but not impossible).

I’m debating whether to:

1. Buy a metal chicken run from Amazon. I can get a 10x14 run for less than $200.
2. Build my own run out of wood. A 10x16 would cost me around $400 to build.

Both options would be modified to be predator proof, including adding a roof along with using the couple hundred feet of hardware cloth I already have sitting around. Aesthetics are important to my wife, but it’s hard for me to justify doubling the price just for looks.

Some other considerations:

• The ground is not very level, and I’d prefer to avoid digging post holes, though I’m okay with using ground anchors.
• I’m looking for reasons (beyond aesthetics) why DIY might be the better option.

What have your experiences been with store-bought runs versus DIY? Are there durability, predator-proofing, or practical advantages to building my own or are there ways to make a metal run pretty?

Thanks for any input!

 

[BigBlueHen53]

Where the ground is not level you will have to find a way to close the gaps and secure those openings from predators that might dig under. Are you familiar with the concept of an apron-type barrier? This is where the hardware cloth is folded down to extend outward along the ground for perhaps a foot to 18" and then covered with a layer of gravel to create an impenetrable (one hopes!) barrier.

 

[BigBlueHen53]

You will need to do this whether you build or buy your run.

 

[Nicksa]

Where the ground is not level you will have to find a way to close the gaps and secure those openings from predators that might dig under. Are you familiar with the concept of an apron-type barrier? This is where the hardware cloth is folded down to extend outward along the ground for perhaps a foot to 18" and then covered with a layer of gravel to create an impenetrable (one hopes!) barrier.

an apron will be used. I think a DIY will allow for a little more flexibility on unleveled ground.

 

[nuthatched]

If the metal run is one of those frames covered in chicken wire, you'll spend another $250 to get it safe.

 

[Sefirothe]

And if its one of the ones nuthatched mentioned and you get any amount of snow, they are prone to collapse with out extra bracing.

 

[AntiqueB]

I have the metal run. It is braced by a 2x4 in the center, but that was to create a windbreaker. It is covered year-round.

I agree that the entire thing needs to be covered in hardware cloth. The door was a problem, as the hardware cloth has to be cut there, leaving gaps. In a place with small weasels, it might not be secure. For sure mice can get in. I also wish the door was wider. Hardware cloth really has to be zip tied; there is no other way.

I do like the peaked roofline, and the ease of creating corners for, say, birds to be integrated. It also looks decent.

This is an older picture; there is now a shed attached to the rear of the run, repurposed as a coop, but you can see the support and windbreaker. I now have further built that up and hang waterers on either side, as well as grit and oyster shell containers.

 

[paintedChix]

A dog kennel can also be used for a run. Some are heavy enough to support roof & snow load depending on where you are. Some are the galvanized chain link style, some are heavier metals painted black. I'd recommend some type of foundation under it to prevent rusting. You would probably need to do some leveling. Hardware cloth can be attached & an apron done as well. Some of the gate/doors are better fitting while some may need to be framed out to keep predators out.

Another option is cattle panels & t-posts or wood posts or simply a wooden ground frame. I've used the CP mostly as hooped coop enclosures. 1 hooped panel, down to ground is approximately 4'x8' & right around 6' (? can't remember) high. You can expand it by 4' in depth at a time by adding another panel. You can make it wider by adding a lower frame. There are many models in the coop section of BYC.

Here is an arch calculator...

https://www.handymath.com/cgi-bin/arc18.cgi?submit=Entry

Depending on how high or roofed you want your run to be, you could leave the panel so it extends the 16' length.

I hope that Helene wasn't too bad for you. Good to see someone else from WNC on here. I'm straddling Harnett & Moore counties in the sandhills.

 

[Nicksa]

@paintedChix Thanks! I actually ended up buying material/lumber to build my own. I like the idea of easily being able to add on and modify and it should keep my wife happy as far as aesthetics.

I am out in Rutherford County. Lost about 10 trees, a few were right where I have been planning on building this run. So I'm glad that liability is gone.

 

[jreardon1918]

@paintedChix Thanks! I actually ended up buying material/lumber to build my own. I like the idea of easily being able to add on and modify and it should keep my wife happy as far as aesthetics.

I am out in Rutherford County. Lost about 10 trees, a few were right where I have been planning on building this run. So I'm glad that liability is gone.

Care to share with us initial plans or sketches of your design? Including how it will attach or enclose your coop. You might get some helpful suggestions.
Jack