Replacing the roof. Too much ventilation for 4'X4' coop?

[JuliaSunshine]

My coop for seven hens consists of two parts with different heights. The lower part, which contains nesting bins, measures 4' x 6', and the higher part, with perches, measures 4' x 4'. Both sections are 3' high, but the perch area is elevated on legs.
The 4' x 4' section, used for sleeping, currently has a separate slanted roof. We are planning to replace it with a gable roof for better ventilation.
As shown in the picture, ventilation will be provided through openings under the eaves and along the roof ridge.
The gap along the roof ridge is 2" at each end, totaling 4".
This creates an opening at the top of approximately 1.3 square feet. Would this be sufficient along with the openings under the eaves?
We have also notched out the top of the gable ends for extra ventilation, but I am considering blocking this gap, as it might result in too much airflow.
Any thoughts?

The winters here are mild, similar to Seattle, with temperatures mostly above freezing. It dips down to 14°F only a few days during the season. The main concern, however, is high humidity due to frequent rain and occasional storms.
In summer, the hens stay in a predator-proof run, and since it rarely gets too hot, I’m not concerned about summer ventilation.

 

[Logar]

Any thoughts?

Yes, add even more ventilation. There is no such thing as too much ventilation as long as it doesn’t result in drafts. You should have at least 1 sq foot of ventilation per bird open year round.

 

[StinkyAcres]

Could you post a picture or two of the entire coop setup?

 

[JuliaSunshine]

Could you post a picture or two of the entire coop setup?

 

[StinkyAcres]

I agree with @Logar - add more ventilation wherever you can without introducing drafts. Is the roosting section completely open to the lower section? If not, I would probably open that up so some air can escape out the lower section and run vents. Just need to make sure there will not be wind strong enough to ruffle feathers hitting them while they are sleeping.

 

[JuliaSunshine]

I agree with @Logar - add more ventilation wherever you can without introducing drafts. Is the roosting section completely open to the lower section? If not, I would probably open that up so some air can escape out the lower section and run vents. Just need to make sure there will not be wind strong enough to ruffle feathers hitting them while they are sleeping.

The roosting section is open to the 4' X 6' lower section of the coop 24/7.
So are you saying that it's better not to block the notched space on the gable ends next to the roof ridge?

 

[JuliaSunshine]

Yes, add even more ventilation. There is no such thing as too much ventilation as long as it doesn’t result in drafts. You should have at least 1 sq foot of ventilation per bird open year round.

7 sq foot of ventilation would be almost half the surface of the 4' X 4' perch area. It sounds like too much, but at least I now know that the vent long the roof ridge is not too much. Maybe I'll keep the extra ventilation space next to the roof ridge then.

 

[StinkyAcres]

The roosting section is open to the 4' X 6' lower section of the coop 24/7.
So are you saying that it's better not to block the notched space on the gable ends next to the roof ridge?

Yes, it is probably best to leave the notched space open (but covered with hardware cloth).

 

[Sally PB]

Yes, it is probably best to leave the notched space open (but covered with hardware cloth).

"Open ventilation" is taken to mean that the area is covered with hardware cloth to keep out predators.

You can cover up an area, but cutting openings in walls and the roof is much harder. Go for more ventilation.

In the winter, I cover my ventilation with air filter material. Air with moisture/ammonia still flows through, but it keeps the breezes to a minimum.

 

[AkHenMama]

My coop for seven hens consists of two parts with different heights. The lower part, which contains nesting bins, measures 4' x 6', and the higher part, with perches, measures 4' x 4'. Both sections are 3' high, but the perch area is elevated on legs.
The 4' x 4' section, used for sleeping, currently has a separate slanted roof. We are planning to replace it with a gable roof for better ventilation.
As shown in the picture, ventilation will be provided through openings under the eaves and along the roof ridge.
The gap along the roof ridge is 2" at each end, totaling 4".
This creates an opening at the top of approximately 1.3 square feet. Would this be sufficient along with the openings under the eaves?
We have also notched out the top of the gable ends for extra ventilation, but I am considering blocking this gap, as it might result in too much airflow.
Any thoughts?

The winters here are mild, similar to Seattle, with temperatures mostly above freezing. It dips down to 14°F only a few days during the season. The main concern, however, is high humidity due to frequent rain and occasional storms.
In summer, the hens stay in a predator-proof run, and since it rarely gets too hot, I’m not concerned about summer ventilation.

I disagree with everyone’s response that you need ‘more ventilation’ and would say you probably need active ventilation. I live in PNW too and unless you have a windy location you probably aren’t able to get enough moisture out with just passive ventilation.
Try looking into ‘active ventilation’ for your coop. I closed all my passive vents except one and added a fan to that vent, then I added a small ‘passive’ vent where it wouldn’t create a cross draft. Now in our 14 degrees weather with 75% humidity it’s less humid and much warmer in our coop. No water freezing as it seeps down and out of the wood. My 13 hens are much happier and laying better than they did during our first cold snap.
I wrote a post and it has pictures of my coop currently and more about passive vs active ventilation.
Best of luck and I hope this helps!