When starting out with chickens, at one point I remember asking myself, what is the perfect breed(s) for me and my situation, location, etc… With a few years of experience and research under my belt, I’ve decided to compile a guide to help newcomers to chicken keeping make the decision a lot easier. I will discuss different topics and create a code for each breed in a chart below. Please read the information to understand the codes I’ve given each breed. If there’s anything you disagree with, or a breed you’d like to see on the list, please contact/reply and I will try to amend this.
Part one: purpose
the first thing to consider is what exactly you want from keeping chickens. Eggs? Meat? Simply enjoyment? Maybe all of these? Chickens can fulfil all of these needs, but which breed you chose is an important factor on the level of benefit in each area. Each breed has its primary use, the quality which the breed excels in, and this should have a large impact on your choice of bird.
The first category and code:
Eggs (E): Which came first, the chicken or the eggs? Truth is, that’s a topic for another article. But of course, that is perhaps the most common use for these animals on a non-industrial scale. Many of the chicken breeds we have today were bred for their delicious, nutritious ‘butt nuggets’, some laying an egg almost every day of the year. Laying hens should be provided with a private laying area such as nest boxes, with at least one box per 3 hens, if not more. Eggs can come in many shapes and sizes, but if you want your birds for egg laying alone, choose one of these breeds.
Meat(M): What tastes any more like chicken than, well, chicken? Nothing! With the right care, meat birds can be beautifully rewarding with high yields of scrumptious meat. These animals typically mature at very fast rates, making the rearing process as efficient and inexpensive as possible. They may not be very good layers, and some have difficulty reproducing, but if meat is all you want, a broiler or fryer bird breed may be best for you.
Show(S): I’ve included the word ‘show’ as incorporating both exhibition animals and just for fun breeds. Many bantam (small) chickens as well as large fowl breeds are bred more for their looks than for their agricultural purpose. These breeds may not be the plumpest or produce the most eggs, but if you want an eye catching or just plain cute breed, here they are.
Dual-Purpose(D): a surprisingly high amount of breed fall under this category, the bird which are great both in the nest and on the table. Dual-purpose breeds are noted for their excellence in laying and for eating, for laying and show, or all three! If you want a flock that can provide eggs, meat and also look good, the perfect breed for you may be a dual-purpose animal.
My beautiful partridge Wyandotte bantams are for show
Part two: size
I hate to break it to you, but it does matter, with chickens at least. Typically, a larger chicken needs more space, simple, right? While their are some exceptions with breed being better suited with confinement, as a rule of thumb, if you have only a few square feet of space, get bantams, not brahmas (unless they’re Brahma bantams). Chickens range in size from the tiny Serama to the appropriately named Jersey Giant. An elephant can’t use a cat flap, just as some breeds are not compatible with certain housing, space and equipment. You really should question your size limits before making a decision.
Bantams(-): bantam is the word for a chicken breed which is very small by default. Some larger breeds have bantam versions, while other breed are ‘true bantams’, meaning there is no larger equivalent. Naturally, these bite sized birds have the cute factor down, but don’t expect jumbo eggs from them! Some sources say that 8” by 8” is adequate, but I’d say each bird needs at least 2 square feet of space. (Chickens are sociable creatures and you should never keep less than three together, so don’t get your hopes up for a 2 square foot coop with a single hen like it’s a hamster cage.)
Small(#): non bantams are known as large fowl, but amongst these there will always be the smallest of the bunch. Capable of laying notable (but not large) eggs, yet packing less of a punch, peck or kick than larger breeds. 3-4 square feet will be a suitable minimum for each animal.
Medium(=): this is where I’d expect most layers to be. With the size (and appetite) to lay nice, big eggs but not for a large carcass or space requirement. I’d recommend at least 4 square feet per chicken.
Large(+): this size can produce a nice dual purpose animal, with a body supporting parts large enough for big eggs and plentiful meat for a few people. Heritage breeds are often large as they were once bred for both meat and eggs within small communities. 4-6 square feet per bird.
Very large(*): if you’re like me and are either able or crazy enough to opt for chickens the size of small children, then here you go. My Brahma rooster is currently 2’6” and he is not even close to the largest specimens. Some breeds in this category are actually the friendliest of chickens, but beware that the roosters are large enough to not always view people as a threat, and can pack a nasty attack too. These big guys can take up about 8 square feet a chicken.
My 2’ 6” Brahma Rooster, Blue. He reaches my hip when crowing!
Step 3: Temperature hardiness
Some breeds simply aren’t cut out for extreme weather conditions. Some can get too hot, others too cold. Depending on their origin, breeds just become adapted for different climates. There may be some breeds you should avoid if you live in a less forgiving location.
Cold hardy(1): these are often plumper or feather footed. While no chicken is suited for artic weathers all year round, cold hardy breeds can cope with harsh winters better than other chickens. This could result in overheating in very warm areas, so if you experience both extremes, this may be a bad choice.
Mild/average(2): these birds will thrive in average conditions, not too hot, not too cold, the Goldilocks zone. They will not be able to cope so well with either extreme for longer periods of time, but if you only experience a few cold or warm weeks a year, they will do just fine. Usually, all round/heat/cold hardy birds do perfectly well in these conditions too, so you can also consider these breeds as well as mild ones.
Heat hardy(3): typically breeds originating in the Mediterranean or tropical regions, these birds are less prone to overheating than most breeds. They are often leaner and more nimble than their northern counterparts, with less and looser feathering to help cool down on a warm summers day.
All rounders(4): breeds which can flourish in multiple climates, both cold and heat hardy. If you live in an area with very distinct seasons which can have extended periods of heat and cold, it’s best you choose one of these breeds to ensure year round comfort for your flock.
Despite their obvious cold adaptations, Brahmas also do well in heat, making them a great all rounder.
Step 4: Egg production
Wouldn’t it be great if your pet made you breakfast? Chickens are fantastic for this, producing food while remaining alive and well. How big of a breakfast you can hope for depends on the breed also - some breeds only lay a few eggs a year, others one a day. How many eggs you need a day/week balanced with the number of chickens you have is an important consideration. You don’t want 20 Leghorns if you only want a couple of eggs for the weekend, or a Ayem Cemani if you plan to provide egg for your whole neighbourhood. All this data is for the hens first year after starting laying, this slowly decreases with age.
0-50(g): breeds laying an egg yield this low are typically bred only for show or more recently crossed with wild jungle fowl. Most of these eggs will be laid in the spring and summer.
50-100(f): still a quite a step above wild birds, but on the low end for chickens. Calcium should be provided with typical diet.
100-150(e): you can expect a couple of eggs a week from these chickens, who should be on perhaps foods such as poultry mix which provide layers pellets for eggs and the general diet for chickens.
150-200(d): reliable layers providing an egg every other day or so, layers meal is advised to maintain egg quality.
200-250(c): now we’re talking! If you use a lot of eggs these are for you. You may be able to start selling depending on numbers. Layers meal/pellets should be the primary food.
250-300(b): you don’t get much better than this! Almost an egg a day, so get ready for them. Feed layers meal/pellets to keep up egg laying and support their body.
300+(a): only achievable typically through hybrid vigour, but notably the leghorn can reach this feat. Birds like this are used industrially for supermarket eggs. Should definitely be on layers feed to prevent issues from laying so frequently, some say pellets are best to make sure they don’t leave essential parts of the diet out through picky eating.
Lohmann Browns are notorious layers used in industry, laying over 300 eggs a year
Step 5: egg colour
An inexperienced chicken keep may be greatly surprised at just how many colours egg can come in. Blues, browns, white, green, speckled, green with speckles, chocolate coloured, the list goes on. I myself know how fun it can be collecting your morning’s eggs not knowing exactly what you’ll get, then opening up the coop to find a spectrum of colours so vibrant you won’t want to crack them open. Pure breeds all have the one colour they are bred to lay, some being prized for their depth, speckles or vibrancy.
White(
): the wild type, or original egg colour laid by wild jungle fowl. Many are used to white eggs, while people like me in the UK may find this a little more surprising. This is the recessive gene against blue eggs, and have none of the pigmentation applied to brown or green eggs, leaving a pearly white shell.
Brown(
): if white eggs aren’t your usual super market variety, brown eggs probably are. Originally the same gene as white eggs, with additional genes controlling levels of a brown pigment, or paint, coated over the shell.
Cream/tinted(
): similar to brown eggs but with less pigment, cream eggs are laid by a lot of breeds that aren’t bred especially for eggs. Bloom and calcium deposits can make these eggs appear pink in certain light, so they can be a change amongst more common colours.
Blue(
): the average person may be unaware of all the egg colours available, but blue eggs are often the first step to this realisation. Blue eggs don’t have the brown pigmentation, and are dominant to white shells, meaning if you crossbred them, the offspring would lay blue eggs too.
Russet(
): Now we’re entering the more unusual colours. Russet eggs are only laid by a couple of breeds and are often speckled, these differ from brown eggs with a dark brick red appearance.
Chocolate(
): the best examples are just mesmerising to see, eggs just as dark as dark chocolate. These are the darkest colours you can get eggs in, outdoing even russet and olive eggs. They also often have speckles.
Green(
): possibly with ham? While (hopefully) the yolks aren’t green, the shells can be the tones of grass, leaves and fruits, but not as dark as olive eggs. Very few breeds lay green eggs, mostly strains of blue laying breeds with a bit of light pigment applied. Crosses such as Easter eggers can lay green eggs due to the genes from brown layers being applied to blue eggs. The Silverudd’s Blue (Isbar) chicken perhaps the only pure breed true green layer.
Olive/moss(
): only produced by crossings between blue and dark brown layers, ‘olive eggers’ are an amazing addition to any flock. As the title suggests, the shells range in colour form that of olives to that of a thick layer of emerald green moss. Often inheriting the speckles from their chocolate laying parents, their shells look like they should come from dinosaurs (well, they do, but you know what I mean).
Some mixed eggs for the incubator
Step 6: overall features
Especially if you want chickens for personal show or as a non-profit (perhaps out of control) hobby, the most important feature for you will be the overall appearance of your chickens. Rather than a plain old hen, you may wish to have a funky, dinosaur-esque, parrot like or simply alien looking fowl. The categories here factor in overall appearance, range of colours, comb type and egg colour. This my best attempt to categorise breeds by this concept, but as they are my opinions if you think a chicken deserve more recognition for its interesting features, I will try to update it.
Bog-standard(.): while even the most humble of hens will still be an amazing creature, this category is for the birds which fit the common mental image we have of chickens.
Different(,): for the birds which have a little bit about them. Chickens with only one unusual feature will fall into this category.
Unusual(?): not your everyday chicken, unusual breeds are far removed from their wild counterparts, having a couple of funny features or one more peculiar one.
Funky(!): for those who look like Jurassic Park escapees, possessing many stand out features, extremes or a couple of completely bizarre traits. Unusual but extremely rare breeds may also be placed here.
Perkins(Cochin Bantams) (left) are like adorable little footballs. Legbars (middle) lay blue eggs and have a stylish haircut. Welsummers (right) lay russet eggs and are a smart looking bird.
Brahmas are giant and have an eye catching pea comb
Barnevelders are double laced
These are the six features which I have categorised the breeds, so now for the final list. I will work to update and add to this continuously, making it hopefully a useful resource for newbies to the hobby, once you have identified an ideal breed, please do your own research into temperament, price, availability and other needs of the chicken just to be sure. This should be a starting point to identify a few candidates suitable for you, you may need to do a bit more digging to find out which one is perfect. Perhaps note the ideal codes down so it will be easier to find the breeds that match your requirements.
This is a very short list at the moment but I will strive to add to it regularly, any parts in blue are facts that I need confirming, if anyone could help.
The List:
Part one: purpose
the first thing to consider is what exactly you want from keeping chickens. Eggs? Meat? Simply enjoyment? Maybe all of these? Chickens can fulfil all of these needs, but which breed you chose is an important factor on the level of benefit in each area. Each breed has its primary use, the quality which the breed excels in, and this should have a large impact on your choice of bird.
The first category and code:
Eggs (E): Which came first, the chicken or the eggs? Truth is, that’s a topic for another article. But of course, that is perhaps the most common use for these animals on a non-industrial scale. Many of the chicken breeds we have today were bred for their delicious, nutritious ‘butt nuggets’, some laying an egg almost every day of the year. Laying hens should be provided with a private laying area such as nest boxes, with at least one box per 3 hens, if not more. Eggs can come in many shapes and sizes, but if you want your birds for egg laying alone, choose one of these breeds.
Meat(M): What tastes any more like chicken than, well, chicken? Nothing! With the right care, meat birds can be beautifully rewarding with high yields of scrumptious meat. These animals typically mature at very fast rates, making the rearing process as efficient and inexpensive as possible. They may not be very good layers, and some have difficulty reproducing, but if meat is all you want, a broiler or fryer bird breed may be best for you.
Show(S): I’ve included the word ‘show’ as incorporating both exhibition animals and just for fun breeds. Many bantam (small) chickens as well as large fowl breeds are bred more for their looks than for their agricultural purpose. These breeds may not be the plumpest or produce the most eggs, but if you want an eye catching or just plain cute breed, here they are.
Dual-Purpose(D): a surprisingly high amount of breed fall under this category, the bird which are great both in the nest and on the table. Dual-purpose breeds are noted for their excellence in laying and for eating, for laying and show, or all three! If you want a flock that can provide eggs, meat and also look good, the perfect breed for you may be a dual-purpose animal.
My beautiful partridge Wyandotte bantams are for show
Part two: size
I hate to break it to you, but it does matter, with chickens at least. Typically, a larger chicken needs more space, simple, right? While their are some exceptions with breed being better suited with confinement, as a rule of thumb, if you have only a few square feet of space, get bantams, not brahmas (unless they’re Brahma bantams). Chickens range in size from the tiny Serama to the appropriately named Jersey Giant. An elephant can’t use a cat flap, just as some breeds are not compatible with certain housing, space and equipment. You really should question your size limits before making a decision.
Bantams(-): bantam is the word for a chicken breed which is very small by default. Some larger breeds have bantam versions, while other breed are ‘true bantams’, meaning there is no larger equivalent. Naturally, these bite sized birds have the cute factor down, but don’t expect jumbo eggs from them! Some sources say that 8” by 8” is adequate, but I’d say each bird needs at least 2 square feet of space. (Chickens are sociable creatures and you should never keep less than three together, so don’t get your hopes up for a 2 square foot coop with a single hen like it’s a hamster cage.)
Small(#): non bantams are known as large fowl, but amongst these there will always be the smallest of the bunch. Capable of laying notable (but not large) eggs, yet packing less of a punch, peck or kick than larger breeds. 3-4 square feet will be a suitable minimum for each animal.
Medium(=): this is where I’d expect most layers to be. With the size (and appetite) to lay nice, big eggs but not for a large carcass or space requirement. I’d recommend at least 4 square feet per chicken.
Large(+): this size can produce a nice dual purpose animal, with a body supporting parts large enough for big eggs and plentiful meat for a few people. Heritage breeds are often large as they were once bred for both meat and eggs within small communities. 4-6 square feet per bird.
Very large(*): if you’re like me and are either able or crazy enough to opt for chickens the size of small children, then here you go. My Brahma rooster is currently 2’6” and he is not even close to the largest specimens. Some breeds in this category are actually the friendliest of chickens, but beware that the roosters are large enough to not always view people as a threat, and can pack a nasty attack too. These big guys can take up about 8 square feet a chicken.
My 2’ 6” Brahma Rooster, Blue. He reaches my hip when crowing!
Step 3: Temperature hardiness
Some breeds simply aren’t cut out for extreme weather conditions. Some can get too hot, others too cold. Depending on their origin, breeds just become adapted for different climates. There may be some breeds you should avoid if you live in a less forgiving location.
Cold hardy(1): these are often plumper or feather footed. While no chicken is suited for artic weathers all year round, cold hardy breeds can cope with harsh winters better than other chickens. This could result in overheating in very warm areas, so if you experience both extremes, this may be a bad choice.
Mild/average(2): these birds will thrive in average conditions, not too hot, not too cold, the Goldilocks zone. They will not be able to cope so well with either extreme for longer periods of time, but if you only experience a few cold or warm weeks a year, they will do just fine. Usually, all round/heat/cold hardy birds do perfectly well in these conditions too, so you can also consider these breeds as well as mild ones.
Heat hardy(3): typically breeds originating in the Mediterranean or tropical regions, these birds are less prone to overheating than most breeds. They are often leaner and more nimble than their northern counterparts, with less and looser feathering to help cool down on a warm summers day.
All rounders(4): breeds which can flourish in multiple climates, both cold and heat hardy. If you live in an area with very distinct seasons which can have extended periods of heat and cold, it’s best you choose one of these breeds to ensure year round comfort for your flock.
Despite their obvious cold adaptations, Brahmas also do well in heat, making them a great all rounder.
Step 4: Egg production
Wouldn’t it be great if your pet made you breakfast? Chickens are fantastic for this, producing food while remaining alive and well. How big of a breakfast you can hope for depends on the breed also - some breeds only lay a few eggs a year, others one a day. How many eggs you need a day/week balanced with the number of chickens you have is an important consideration. You don’t want 20 Leghorns if you only want a couple of eggs for the weekend, or a Ayem Cemani if you plan to provide egg for your whole neighbourhood. All this data is for the hens first year after starting laying, this slowly decreases with age.
0-50(g): breeds laying an egg yield this low are typically bred only for show or more recently crossed with wild jungle fowl. Most of these eggs will be laid in the spring and summer.
50-100(f): still a quite a step above wild birds, but on the low end for chickens. Calcium should be provided with typical diet.
100-150(e): you can expect a couple of eggs a week from these chickens, who should be on perhaps foods such as poultry mix which provide layers pellets for eggs and the general diet for chickens.
150-200(d): reliable layers providing an egg every other day or so, layers meal is advised to maintain egg quality.
200-250(c): now we’re talking! If you use a lot of eggs these are for you. You may be able to start selling depending on numbers. Layers meal/pellets should be the primary food.
250-300(b): you don’t get much better than this! Almost an egg a day, so get ready for them. Feed layers meal/pellets to keep up egg laying and support their body.
300+(a): only achievable typically through hybrid vigour, but notably the leghorn can reach this feat. Birds like this are used industrially for supermarket eggs. Should definitely be on layers feed to prevent issues from laying so frequently, some say pellets are best to make sure they don’t leave essential parts of the diet out through picky eating.
Lohmann Browns are notorious layers used in industry, laying over 300 eggs a year
Step 5: egg colour
An inexperienced chicken keep may be greatly surprised at just how many colours egg can come in. Blues, browns, white, green, speckled, green with speckles, chocolate coloured, the list goes on. I myself know how fun it can be collecting your morning’s eggs not knowing exactly what you’ll get, then opening up the coop to find a spectrum of colours so vibrant you won’t want to crack them open. Pure breeds all have the one colour they are bred to lay, some being prized for their depth, speckles or vibrancy.
White(
): the wild type, or original egg colour laid by wild jungle fowl. Many are used to white eggs, while people like me in the UK may find this a little more surprising. This is the recessive gene against blue eggs, and have none of the pigmentation applied to brown or green eggs, leaving a pearly white shell.Brown(
): if white eggs aren’t your usual super market variety, brown eggs probably are. Originally the same gene as white eggs, with additional genes controlling levels of a brown pigment, or paint, coated over the shell.Cream/tinted(
): similar to brown eggs but with less pigment, cream eggs are laid by a lot of breeds that aren’t bred especially for eggs. Bloom and calcium deposits can make these eggs appear pink in certain light, so they can be a change amongst more common colours.Blue(
): the average person may be unaware of all the egg colours available, but blue eggs are often the first step to this realisation. Blue eggs don’t have the brown pigmentation, and are dominant to white shells, meaning if you crossbred them, the offspring would lay blue eggs too.Russet(
): Now we’re entering the more unusual colours. Russet eggs are only laid by a couple of breeds and are often speckled, these differ from brown eggs with a dark brick red appearance.Chocolate(
): the best examples are just mesmerising to see, eggs just as dark as dark chocolate. These are the darkest colours you can get eggs in, outdoing even russet and olive eggs. They also often have speckles.Green(
): possibly with ham? While (hopefully) the yolks aren’t green, the shells can be the tones of grass, leaves and fruits, but not as dark as olive eggs. Very few breeds lay green eggs, mostly strains of blue laying breeds with a bit of light pigment applied. Crosses such as Easter eggers can lay green eggs due to the genes from brown layers being applied to blue eggs. The Silverudd’s Blue (Isbar) chicken perhaps the only pure breed true green layer.Olive/moss(
): only produced by crossings between blue and dark brown layers, ‘olive eggers’ are an amazing addition to any flock. As the title suggests, the shells range in colour form that of olives to that of a thick layer of emerald green moss. Often inheriting the speckles from their chocolate laying parents, their shells look like they should come from dinosaurs (well, they do, but you know what I mean).
Some mixed eggs for the incubator
Step 6: overall features
Especially if you want chickens for personal show or as a non-profit (perhaps out of control) hobby, the most important feature for you will be the overall appearance of your chickens. Rather than a plain old hen, you may wish to have a funky, dinosaur-esque, parrot like or simply alien looking fowl. The categories here factor in overall appearance, range of colours, comb type and egg colour. This my best attempt to categorise breeds by this concept, but as they are my opinions if you think a chicken deserve more recognition for its interesting features, I will try to update it.
Bog-standard(.): while even the most humble of hens will still be an amazing creature, this category is for the birds which fit the common mental image we have of chickens.
Different(,): for the birds which have a little bit about them. Chickens with only one unusual feature will fall into this category.
Unusual(?): not your everyday chicken, unusual breeds are far removed from their wild counterparts, having a couple of funny features or one more peculiar one.
Funky(!): for those who look like Jurassic Park escapees, possessing many stand out features, extremes or a couple of completely bizarre traits. Unusual but extremely rare breeds may also be placed here.
Perkins(Cochin Bantams) (left) are like adorable little footballs. Legbars (middle) lay blue eggs and have a stylish haircut. Welsummers (right) lay russet eggs and are a smart looking bird.
Brahmas are giant and have an eye catching pea comb
Barnevelders are double laced
These are the six features which I have categorised the breeds, so now for the final list. I will work to update and add to this continuously, making it hopefully a useful resource for newbies to the hobby, once you have identified an ideal breed, please do your own research into temperament, price, availability and other needs of the chicken just to be sure. This should be a starting point to identify a few candidates suitable for you, you may need to do a bit more digging to find out which one is perfect. Perhaps note the ideal codes down so it will be easier to find the breeds that match your requirements.
This is a very short list at the moment but I will strive to add to it regularly, any parts in blue are facts that I need confirming, if anyone could help.
The List:
- Ameraucana E=1c?
- Andalusian E+3d.
- Araucana E=2b?
- Australorp E=3b.
- Ayam Cemani S=2f!
- Barnevelder E#2b?
- Belgian d’Uccle S-2f?
- Black star E=2a,
- Brahma D*4d!
- Bresse M+4b,
- Buckeye D=2c,
- Cochin S+1f?
- Cornish M+2d,
- Cream Legbar E#2d?
- Delaware M+2c?
- Easter egger E=1b?
- Faverolles E=1c?
- Golden Comet E=2a.
- Hamburg S#2d,
- ISA Brown (Red Star) E=2a.
- Jersey Giant D*4b?
- Leghorn E=3a.
- Lohmann Brown E=2a.
- Marans D+2d,
- Minorca S=3e,
- Naked Neck D=1e!
- New Hampshire D+2b.
- Orpington D*4d,
- Pekin(Cochin bantam) S-1f?
- Phoenix S#2g!
- Plymouth Rock D+4c.
- Polish S#2f!
- Sebright S-2f,
- Serama S-4c,
- Slikie S-1e!
- Sussex D=2b.
- Welsummer E+2d,
- Wyandotte D=2c?
