Slant Roof HELP? Corrugated Metal

[KinderKorner]

Alright so I am building a silkie coop. I have the back wall done but now I'm stumped.

I'm not sure how to do the roof. And I don't want to build the front wall until the roof is figured out so I need some help.

The back wall is 28" high.

I began the front wall with the same height. But now I'm not sure how to make a slant for the roof and attach the corrugated metal sheets.

They only way I can figure is to nail a 2"x4" up on end on the front wall. Then put 2"x4" slates across then nail on the roof. But then that makes a big gap in the front. And also it wastes a lot of lumber.

Here is a badly drawn picture of sort of what the plan looked like in my head.

As you can see it's not a good design.

I can rip off the front that I started with no trouble. And raise it 4". That takes care of the slant. But how do I put the cross slates on? Putting them on the top makes a big gap. I'm so confused.

Please help me. I can get more pictures of what I got so far if needed.

 

[Quadog]

Try putting the 2x4s from side to side instead of front to rear???

 

[LynneP]

Pictures would be great! A lot of members are having to renovate metal roofs due to condensation, so give this some consideration. Also, the board you will use against the side to create the slant should probably be wider, like 2x6 or even more. Are you using screws with rubber washers to seal the holes, and what are you using on the seams? Do you have a snow rake or do you need a pronounced slope to self-clear the snow? Are you putting vents high up under the tallest end?

Here's the roof over our run, but keep in mind that we use a snow rake and that this roof is clear which I would not do over the coop itself. Scroll down the page to the May 17, 2008 pictures. We used hurricane hangers because we are in a hilly district with high winds. We also added an extra rib every foot to strengthen the run and to make attaching the roofing easier. Has worked well...


https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=7693-LynnePs_Run

 

[G Wiz Ranch]

Your side view picture looks fine, except, make the "slant" portion stick out a little farther than the front wall to support your roofing. The boards that run from the front to back can all be the same length, then cap them off with your front a rear "fascia" boards that will also me the same length as each other. Where the roof support over hangs the front wall, you will need to install a board on the underside of the overhang. Don't install the front to back boards on top of the others, you will only have a gap from the corrugated roofing itself.

 

[KinderKorner]

Try putting the 2x4s from side to side instead of front to rear???

And this is why I love BYC.

Here is a new pictures of a side to side brace I could do instead.

The only gaps would be on the side. And I will be building a door there anyway. So I could expand the door up a bit to cover the holes.

I don't know what do people think?

I will try to get some pictures in a second.​

 

[LynneP]

I'd put the side braces in after you install the roofing, otherwise you'll have a huge gap on each end...the side braces need only span between the ribs and you'll get several from one 2x4. You may even have scrap pieces you can use. Are you going to insulate that roof? I think for silkies you should consider it.

 

[KinderKorner]

Alright guys. I have decide on a different design I am going to rip the front off and raise it up 4".

It will work and look a lot better.

My only concern is that there will be 2"x2" braces across. With the roofing sitting on top of that. With 2" plus the gaps in arches of the roofing be too big of holes and allow predators in. I can fix it if I need to. But the ventilation might be good for the coop.

ETA: Picture.

 

[patandchickens]

It is really important to run your pieces of 2x4 (or whatever) SIDEWAYS, that is to say crossways to the corrugations in the roofing. (You can do it the other way but it takes more lumber because you need to use pretty close spacing). In most situations you would not want more than 2' between pieces of horizontal strapping -- I suppose if you are feeling like it's only a chicken coop you could go 3' but I wouldn't, remember they attach the roof in high winds not just supporting vs loads from the top.

Put your top and bottom nailer (purlin, whatever you want to call it -- the horizontal pieces of 2x4 strapping we're talking about) each *atop* the top plates of the two walls that the roof spans, and there will be not so much gap, and it's easy to close off iwth trim or hardwarecloth later on if you want.

It would be a real good idea to get a copy of your roofing manufacturer's installation instructions (or look online for something comparable), because that stuff is WONDERFUL if installed/supported correctly, but TERRIBLE if you do it wrong. Right is *easy*, you just need a picture to follow

Good luck, have fun,

Pat

 

[KinderKorner]

I have some thin insulation board I can put under the metal roofing. It will make it warmer, and it will fix the gap problems.

Now should I leave the gaps in between the 2"x2". Or should a put a board over them.

The front of the coop with have a 10"x10" vent hole.

And the back has a 4"x10" vent.

Should I go ahead and leave the extra air or close it up?

 

[KinderKorner]

I planned on the corrugations going down. And my slates are also going down the slant.

If I turn the roofing so the valleys and arches are sideways agaist the slant will snow and water get stuck. With a 6" slant.