I put a preservative in my baked goods. It's called honey.The quality of the ingredients -- and no "stuff" in it (preservatives, additives, colorings; you know that "stuff")
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I put a preservative in my baked goods. It's called honey.The quality of the ingredients -- and no "stuff" in it (preservatives, additives, colorings; you know that "stuff")
Yes, all.This actually poses a question. My stove is burning wood WAY too fast. I mean it goes through a big log in 30 to 40 minutes.
Here are the details:
No baffle plate in the stove yet. Getting one soon.
Pine wood is what we have.
Door has very tiny gap at the top when closed.
Are any of these a problem that causes wood to burn too fast?
ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY, don't even think about running the stove again without one.Thanks for letting me know. We will get one installed.
I have been known to cut a slot in the end of big rounds with the chainsaw then splitting it in half with metal wedges and a maul. Seeing those rounds, I'd probably have to split them in quarters. Then they will go on the electric log splitter.we have used up all the oak pieces that could be split, the oak we have now would have to be split by a machine, which wouldn’t be economical , and I can’t do any heavy lifting anyways since I am the only one doing stuff like that, we have to wait until I am better, or somebody hires a machine that splits wood and we can also use it to split our stuff, but since a slice of the oak weighs at least about 200 kg, I am not sure it would even work ?!
View attachment 3672214
We always BURN hard wood. NEVER PINE.Yes, all.
I won't burn pine or other sappy woods. They burn too fast and create creosote in the pipe and chimney as the stove cools down. But I know that some areas, like the PNW don't have much in the way of hardwoods so you are stuck with what you have. Make sure you clean the pipe and chimney regularly through the winter. You can gauge how often you need to do it by how much creosote is in them the first time. It will take some practice to figure out the timing. I don't need to clean mine but once in the spring (to make sure there are no bird nests in the chimney. But I burn hardwoods and pretty much once the stove is lit, it stays lit all winter. Not lots of heating and cooling so little buildup.
ANY gap is letting in air you don't want for a longer burn. The only air should be coming in through the controlled intake so you can shut down the stove. I have that problem with the front door on my stove last winter. I'm replacing all the gaskets before I start it up this year.
ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY, don't even think about running the stove again without one.
You could end up with a runaway fire .... and no house
I have been known to cut a slot in the end of big rounds with the chainsaw then splitting it in half with metal wedges and a maul. Seeing those rounds, I'd probably have to split them in quarters. Then they will go on the electric log splitter.
You might also have to let those rounds "season" a bit so they start cracking and show you where THEY want to split as opposed to where YOU think you want them to split.
Yes! I'm glad you mentioned that.I put a preservative in my baked goods. It's called honey.
Here's something else that might be useful to wood splitters. Hubby had been splitting wood quite a while when a friend gave him this tip.You might also have to let those rounds "season" a bit so they start cracking and show you where THEY want to split as opposed to where YOU think you want them to split.
A few years ago we invested in a wood splitter from Home Depot. You could rent one for a few hours too at your local hardware rental place. I know True Value here does. Get the kind that has vertical option so you just roll those logs underneath it flat side up, then bring the wedge down on it and voila!we have used up all the oak pieces that could be split, the oak we have now would have to be split by a machine, which wouldn’t be economical , and I can’t do any heavy lifting anyways since I am the only one doing stuff like that, we have to wait until I am better, or somebody hires a machine that splits wood and we can also use it to split our stuff, but since a slice of the oak weighs at least about 200 kg, I am not sure it would even work ?!
View attachment 3672214
Yes, all.
I won't burn pine or other sappy woods. They burn too fast and create creosote in the pipe and chimney as the stove cools down. But I know that some areas, like the PNW don't have much in the way of hardwoods so you are stuck with what you have. Make sure you clean the pipe and chimney regularly through the winter. You can gauge how often you need to do it by how much creosote is in them the first time. It will take some practice to figure out the timing. I don't need to clean mine but once in the spring (to make sure there are no bird nests in the chimney. But I burn hardwoods and pretty much once the stove is lit, it stays lit all winter. Not lots of heating and cooling so little buildup.
ANY gap is letting in air you don't want for a longer burn. The only air should be coming in through the controlled intake so you can shut down the stove. I have that problem with the front door on my stove last winter. I'm replacing all the gaskets before I start it up this year.
ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY, don't even think about running the stove again without one.
You could end up with a runaway fire .... and no house
I have been known to cut a slot in the end of big rounds with the chainsaw then splitting it in half with metal wedges and a maul. Seeing those rounds, I'd probably have to split them in quarters. Then they will go on the electric log splitter.
You might also have to let those rounds "season" a bit so they start cracking and show you where THEY want to split as opposed to where YOU think you want them to split.