What did you do in the garden today?

I have no idea if it would specifically work on your pepper problem but calcium supplements for BER in peppers is a good plan. BER is just not enough calcium in the fruits. I grow the san marzanos too. It's a big problem with them, isn't it?

For BER on tomates and zucchinis our prevention plan starts when we transplant. We put 1/4 cup of crushed eggshells in the hole before planting.
Then if we see problems we pick any fruits showing any signs of the condition (even just a little) and throw them in the compost. If they are showing the slightest sign of BER, they're already dead.
Then we mulch around the plants if we can. Pull weeds, drop them on top, grass clippings, anything to keep moisture levels consistent.
Then we mix the milk, and water it onto the plants ye olde watering can style. Do this in the evening after the sun is well past it's zenith and it's markedly starting to cool off but it's not night yet. I like around 7PM for this. Don't do this in full sun/midday.
Instead of milk you can use any bioavailable calcium supplement. I have used slurries of human calcium citrate supplements in water before. The trick is to make it as bioavailable as possible without any additions.
(These are about humans but it still applies;
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8602592
https://www.globalhealingcenter.com/natural-health/types-of-calcium-supplements/
https://www.dairynutrition.ca/nutrients-in-milk-products/calcium/calcium-and-bioavailability)
Repeat a few times over a couple weeks.
A few more fruits usually still die out but the following flush of fruit post-treatment usually shows marked improvements.

This is just what we do, mind you. There's all sorts of info about how to mist the plants and when to do it and how much to use, and how much water and making sure your PH and NPK are right and stuff... But I'm a little too lazy for all that and just do it old fashioned with a watering can after the air cools down. We also know we have calcium issues in our soil. We get BER every year. I'm thinking of dumping a big bag of bone meal into the gardens for next year if I can find one at a fair price as a longer-term solution.


Here's some info on BER treatment with calcium. :)
http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C938&title=Blossom-End Rot and Calcium Nutrition of Pepper and Tomato
https://www.gardeners.com/how-to/blossom-end-rot/5354.html
https://bonnieplants.com/library/conquer-blossom-end-rot/
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ed...uash-blossom-end-rot-causes-and-treatment.htm
https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/blossom-end-rot-prevention-and-treatment-zbcz1502

And some stuff on foliar feeding!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foliar_feeding
https://www.maximumyield.com/the-dos-and-donts-of-foliar-feeding/2/3418
https://drearth.com/learning-center/projects/foliar-feeding/
 
Blossom end rot is due to,
- Lack of Calcium in soil
- Inconsistent watering
- To much nitrogen during budding / fruit production stage.

As for using milk as a foliar spray, yes milk has some benefits but also has a few side effects as a nutrition for plants.
- It contains 4% (107mg) of salt
- The fats will spoil on the leaves causing unwanted smells and pests, animals to come around.
- Milk can cause unwanted bacteria growth on plants
- Milk can get expensive in the long run causing more problems for you.

The best thing to do, fix the soil pH problem if needed, lower nitrogen intake during budding and fruit production and water more consistent.
Also if your using tap water, check the pH of your tap water even well water pH can be off.

If you want to foliar feed with something to boost calcium uptake of the plant the try a liquid calcium.
You could try something like this -
www.downtoearthfertilizer.com/products/liquid-fertilizers/liquid-calcium-5-0/
 
I'm not putting down foliar feeding or the application of Calcium.

What I and saying is one should fix the problem rather than covering it up.
Then if you need to foliar feed with a calcium product use one that is going to cause less problems down the road.
Milk contains fats that can build up on the leaves and can block stomta and guard cells, when this happen gasses and water can not pass through the leaves making for even more problems. Also if you start getting salt build up you can over time kill the plant or at very least stress the plant and lower production.

You do what you want, but I think I'd rather 14.00 for a product that I know will work and not have a bunch of sidefects.
Also note that would be about 14.00 a quart which you dilute to 1 to 2 tablespoons per gallon of water.
That's about .22 to .44 cents per gallon. :p
 
Got my currant tomatoes transplanted.
We planted these to test them out and see how they do and if we would plant them at the farm next year.
So far were quite pleased.
These tomatoes are 8 weeks.

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A couple of ripe San Marzanos, more cherry tomatoes, more beans. That's what I got today. I did see a couple of flower buds on our little okra plants today, but they're super short, so they probably won't produce much until they get bigger.

Our Cherokee Purple plants are loaded down with fruit. The plants are so heavy, one cage fell in a storm last week. Luckily, the main stems didn't break. I told my hubby he needs to put up stronger reinforcements for those cages.
 

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