Newbie with potentially deteriorating chickens

[Wyorp Rock]

I don't see anything concerning.

Photos show feather loss and damage typically seen from mating. I see feather follicles that have been rubbed or broken of and they are intact in the skin. I see some broken feathers along the shoulders and broken/damaged feathers in general that would probably just be general wear and tear.
Feathers that are broken, damaged and follicles still intact in the skin will not be replaced until molt. So, you'll have to just wait it out.

Cut out some of the treats since the birds roam, focus on them eating what the forage and provide the all flock feed free choice.

You have 2 photos showing the earlobes, so that must be a concern? I see nothing wrong there. That's color leakage typically seen in hybrid or hatchery quality birds. Nothing to worry about. Eyes look good and clear, comb color is nice.

If you do have mites. Then it would be a good idea to get the Permethrin 10 concentrate to have on hand. Mix according to directions. Keep on top of spraying your coop to get rid of the mites.
You can treat your birds too. DE is not very effective against an infestation.

White poop on the feathers is urates. They have fluffy bums, so you can just give them a rinse when they get dirty or trim some of the fluff.

If you feel they are losing weight, then weight them. Weigh weekly and track it for a month. See if there's really any changes.

If your birds are beginning to molt, they may act a bit more standoffish. Molting birds don't like to be handled at all. They don't really even want to be messed with.
Sometimes it seems they can just go through phases, much like humans, they want to chat and have a conversation, other times, they want to be left to their own devices.

Hope that helps.

 

[EriLynCap]

Thank you so much! This was a lot of peace of mind to wake up to... Should I keep a chicken saddle on my bald girl for the winter to keep her from being cold? (I'm in Michigan) Also do cold legs mean anything when none of the others legs were cold to the touch?
I would like to worm as a final precaution just to be set before they are sharing with the ducks for winter (I am hoping to have a separate winter coop for ducks next year)
What is the best way to do this? The only thing I've seen at tsc for chickens is a preventative of pumpkin seed and oregano and it's not very cost efficient.
They have had a random day here and there where one was a little sneezy or had a couple little coughing fits, but it hasn't been the same chicken and it honestly was gone by the next morning so I guessed like us sometimes they must have an allergy day from dust or pollen in a particular forage area.
They have never been super cuddly so there isn't drastic changes other than the one not eating out of our hands anymore (could be a grudge from the extra check overs she's been getting I guess, maybe she thinks I'll catch her even though I try not to use that as a way to do it to keep her friendly)
The treats are usually just a small handful here or there to call them back from trying to visit the neighbors or trying to put them back in their pen a little earlier than sunset. They get a little more on poor weather days when I do keep them penned in the smaller run/coop... The biggest days were cucumber season when I just tossed over ripe ones out of my garden but I figured with the hot summer days it was added hydration.

I appreciate all of you for sharing your knowledge. Thank you so much!!!

 

[Wyorp Rock]

You can keep a saddle on her if you wish.
It may help keep her a bit warmer. I kept mine on year round when I used them.

I have also had bald, naked hens molting in the middle of January when the daytime temps were in the 20s and they were fine (without a saddle) but they for sure had protection from the wind and I deep bedding/straw to hunker in to get warm if needed.

As for deworming. If possible, getting a fecal float to see if they have worms is the best way to go, but often finding a vet is difficult.
If you want to deworm, then you can use Fenbendazole (Safeguard liquid goat dewormer) or Albendazole (Valbazen) to deworm them.
You can find Safeguard at stores like TSC, but you would want to wait to use that until your hens finish molting. Fenbendazole is known to affect feather growth/quality during molt.
Dose is 0.23ml per pound of weight given orally once a day for 5 days in a row.

Valbazen can be ordered online, it can be used during molt. Dose is 0.08ml per pound of weight given orally once, then repeated in 10 days.

 

[EriLynCap]

I just wanted to update, since beginning to ferment feed and using a natural dewormer that I believe to be cayenne pepper based all but my bald Sassy girl seem to be gaining weight and acting a bit more like their crazy selves... Thank you all so much for your input and your help!