Integrating new chickens...a unique situation.

Thanks, @Alaskan. The big questions now have to do with condensation from the metal roof, and insulation vs ventilation.
Well... condensation was addressed i thought... the plywood over the perches will protect perching.

Maybe the metal walls need to be insulated.... but maybe not.... depends on how cold for how long.

Looks like lots of ventilation, and none at perch level.
 
And the gaps at ground level? Should they put weatherstripping there, or leave it open? I'm so glad I thought of you! Thanks for sharing your experience and expertise! :hugs
 
The walls are what worry me.. And some airflow around the doors which I think I will try and find some kind of weather stripping or something to fix before there's cold wind blowing through the cracks. My husband is also going to make an actual pop door, because currently we have been opening the huge door for them in the morning... Or on rainy days having it partly open, as you can see in the last picture. But that definitely won't fly in the winter! Still some work to be done, but it's nearly there
As to this.... I guess I didn't directly answer....

I wouldn't bother with any weather stripping, unless in mid winter you find snow drifts blowing in the gaps... or some other clear issue. A little air leakage there is fine. And the chickens will love to eat any weather stripping. So... skip it.

but yes, a pop door would be nice. Make sure you trim the pop door so they do not bump up against The metal.

And yes... the metal walls are a little worrisome.... but how much of an issue??? Depends on how much wind you get, how much humidity. :idunno

Covering the metal walls with insulation and then plywood would be a LARGE expense and a bunch of work. Also... once you do insulation and then plywood... you have made a great rodent hotel... so, humm.....

I have metal rooves in my coops... and I haven't had issues, and it IS super humid where I am. Also lots of wind. But I haven't had metal walls...

So... not sure on the walls.
 
As to this.... I guess I didn't directly answer....

I wouldn't bother with any weather stripping, unless in mid winter you find snow drifts blowing in the gaps... or some other clear issue. A little air leakage there is fine. And the chickens will love to eat any weather stripping. So... skip it.

but yes, a pop door would be nice. Make sure you trim the pop door so they do not bump up against The metal.

And yes... the metal walls are a little worrisome.... but how much of an issue??? Depends on how much wind you get, how much humidity. :idunno

Covering the metal walls with insulation and then plywood would be a LARGE expense and a bunch of work. Also... once you do insulation and then plywood... you have made a great rodent hotel... so, humm.....

I have metal rooves in my coops... and I haven't had issues, and it IS super humid where I am. Also lots of wind. But I haven't had metal walls...

So... not sure on the wall

Ok... already addressed. And actually, if it is super cold and nasty out, then you want MORE inside space since the chickens will not be wanting to go outside. I try to aim for 9 Square feet per bird of indoor housing.


I agree. Toss them all in at the same time, on a day when you can sit out there for a couple of hours and watch.

It will probably be fine, but if there is an issue then you can round up the problem individuals and put them in "see but no touch" kennels or some such.

I did note though... you have ladder roosts... if ALL of the chickens can not comfortably fit on the TOP bar, then that might result in fighting.

I would recommend enough roost space for everyone, all at the same level

Quote:
And the normal temperature for the winter is -20C (-4F) on a good day.

That is a perfectly fine temp for chickens.

Personally I think under -20F on a daily basis (not short dips, or the low, but staying in the -30F range or colder for weeks at a time) does require some kind of heating.

Warmer than that and the chickens will be fine with zero heat. However, if you are far north, or are often overcast, along with 0F or colder, I STRONGLY recommend the use of lights on a timer. Chickens will not eat or drink in the dark. They eat WAY MORE the colder they get. I find 10 or 11 hours of light a good choice. But the colder it gets I might increase the light a bit more, just try not to use so much light that they are forced to lay... which I think is 14 hours???
Thanks for this reply! I did end up getting the first 6 hens today. I kept them separate for a few hours, fed them along the fence I rigged up and everyone seemed curious but not really aggressive. Before bed I decided to let the new hens in with the rest because I didn't like the idea of them being out in the run on their own. The beginning was going fairly well until one of my cockerels decided to mount one of the new hens and then another one tried to pull him off and then things just went a little crazy. Until my genius of a husband suggested I just put all the cockerels in the run side and let the hens all sleep in the coop. It was a bit of an adventure rounding them all up and separating all the males except for the one we're keeping. Our original hens are at the bottom of the pecking order, what with all the roos ruling the roost. So they graciously walked away after a couple light pecks and found a spot to sleep while the new chickens explored the coop. They all seemed fine, despite the ordeal of getting them all in the coop.

As for my ladder roost, my original flock of 15 all fit on the top, once in awhile there would be one or two on a lower roost. But all the hens I have now should be able to fit up there no problem once they're comfortable with each other. And it looks like I'm butchering my extra boys this weekend because with the new hens they just went crazy. I have never actually seen them mount one of my younger females, but they wanted to get right to it with the older ladies! 🤦‍♀️
 

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Ok... already addressed. And actually, if it is super cold and nasty out, then you want MORE inside space since the chickens will not be wanting to go outside. I try to aim for 9 Square feet per bird of indoor housing.
As for the extra coop space I was already thinking I'll probably move my cats to the garage for the winter because it's insulated/heated. So that opens up my entire other side of the coop which would give me 24x8 ft of space. I can throw down some deep bedding in there and maybe some fun perches and boredom busting things, plus it has windows on 3 sides so they'll be able to sunbathe on sunny days.

I will definitely look into lighting in the coop or outside the coop (it'll shine through the windows if it's outside).

And are you saying I should have a backup heat source for those -30 days? Do you know if those "cozy coop" or other wall mounted infrared heaters work well enough?

Thanks for all your knowledge! I will read your article tomorrow, I'm sure it'll answer other questions I may have.
 

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