The Full Guide to King Quail
Feel free to join my group! https://m.facebook.com/groups/1446892082426077/?ref=share&mibextid=S66gvF
About King Quails:
Although commonly referred to as "Button quail" in captivity the true name of these little birds is King quail. The true Buttonquail isn't even a quail- they are currently placed with the Charadriiformes, which are shorebirds. Other common names for King Quail include, Blue-breasted Quail, Asian Blue Quail, or Chinese Painted Quail. They are the smallest true quail, and in the wild are native to parts of Asia, Australia, and China. There are 10 different subspecies. The species gets it's "blue" and "painted" names due to the wild/typical type coloring of the male- black and white facial markings, a blue chest, red underparts, and a brown back. The wild type female is camouflaged brown above, with a beige underside, barred with brown. Her face and throat are marked with orangeish beige.
Size: 4-5 inches long and weigh around 0.99-1.4 ounces fully grown.
Lifespan: 3-6 years “average”. Can live up to 15 years. Age depends very heavily on genetics and how well they are cared for. Most birds live 18 months to 3 years due to improper care/bad genetics.
Caging/Enclosures:
Like all quail they are very active and need a decent amount of space. The cage should be fairly long to allow for lots of back and forth walking. An enclosure measuring 36"L x 24"W (or 6 square ft) is the humane minimum for a single pair. The cage should be increased by 4 square ft per added pair. (Do keep in mind, bigger is always better.)
Although they are not perching birds, overhead space is required in case of a spook. Sometimes they'll also get excited and will enjoy some space to flutter into the air or even fly loops (mine do so often!). When spooked they will jump straight up into the air which in some cases can result in severe injury or even kill the bird. This is not an issue if the cage has appropriate height which is around 3 ft minimum. However if you are still worried you can hang loose 1/4 inch netting or a sheet tightly 4 inches or so below the top of the cage to act as a cushion for a bird. A common myth is that short cages are needed to prevent injuries/death. This is false and short cages are more dangerous to the birds as they have powerful legs and may hit nearly full force.
Many people keep King quail in aquariums however this is not appropriate for multiple reasons.
1: Birds cannot comprehend glass so they are constantly mentally stressed by trying to go through it and not understanding what's stopping them.
2: Birds have incredibly sensitive lungs and the trapped dust and particles due to lack of air flow causes health issues as well as quickly contributing to an early death. (Keep in mind many of these health issues will NOT be visually noticeable.)
3: The lack of height is also more likely to result in an injury.
4: Since for most tanks the lid is at the top and most don't have a side sliding door it also makes birds more likely to spook and jump out or just be stressed in general, as in the wild predators such as hawks and falcons come from above.
5: The majority of aquariums/tanks/bins commonly used are nowhere near big enough for even one bird much less several.
The best option is usually to build your own cage, as it gives you control over size and accessibility. For a mesh cage 1/2 inch hardware cloth is suitable for the walls and roof, & 1/4 inch should be used for the floor. If you plan on allowing the pair to raise babies, 1/4 inch should be used for the walls as well (Or at least the bottom 4 inches). Another better option is to have a solid flooring. This can be done by building the bottom frame out of wood or some sort of plastic sheet with a sand or gravel flooring. Natural soil can also be used. Quail also enjoy things to hide under, so in the case of natural soil, safe plants can be added to the cage for a more natural look. Keep in mind, in a planted enclosure it should be fairly heavily planted as quail like to eat certain parts. Safe Fake plants can also be used. They also enjoy climbing on occasion so ledges can be placed along a wall at varying heights, Or a few old stumps can be added as well as rocks. They should also have a large dustbath filled with either sand or natural soil. (Do not use if pesticides have been used on or near the soil)
Example of an appropriate indoor enclosure from a friend.
Enrichment: Climbing opportunities and things to hide under/inside of as mentioned above are enjoyed and count as forms of enrichment. Otherwise seeds or mealworms can be sprinkled in the sandbox or a dish can be filled with leaves and have seeds scattered in for the birds to forage. Sprinkling seed on a large rough textured piece of bark also provides the opportunity for birds to pick around. In the case of enclosures with a sand/soil flooring with plants you can simply sprinkle the treats around the entire enclosure and even scatter feed the birds this way by including their base diet in the mix.
Tip for outdoor enclosures: If temps go below 40° fahrenheit the birds may need be supplied with a heat lamp in a draft free corner. The enclosure should also be covered with a sheet or thin plastic for the night. Most often birds who are properly acclimated will have no issue with the cold however if it freezes for longer periods of time they may need extra insulation or to be brought indoors.
Extra note: Things to climb are an absolute must for mesh enclosures so the birds can rest their feet and wear their nails down naturally. A sand box or other dust bathing opportunity is required regardless of what enclosure you choose.
Feeding / Watering: They can be fed Hen layer as a base, however Gamebird starter is more appropriate especially if you want eggs as they need higher protein than chickens for example. This should be supplemented with a finch seed mix as well as a wide variety of greens/veggies, sprouted seeds, and mealworms or unseasoned mashed boiled/scrambled egg. Feeding only seed can result in overweight birds and diet deficiencies. Birds should have access to fresh water at all times. A normal chick waterer can be used for adult birds. For veggies they can be minced so they can easily eat a large variety. Make sure the veggies you feed are bird safe. Veggies/seeds and sprouted seeds can be offered daily and should not be fed less often than once a week at least.
Sexing:
In many color types the male will have visible "bib" markings on the face or a blue chest (may extend up the neck and to the face depending on color type). In color types without a bib, the blue chest or red vent/underside area can be used to tell males from females. Some color types such as pure whites need to be sexed by behavior/sounds and silvers occasionally fall under this category as well since not all males have a bib. Some silver males who lack a bib may have a pink/reddish tint to the vent area however this is not a guarantee. An accurate way to test a mature males gender is to sprinkle seed or mealworms on the ground. He will pick them up and call to the females/his mate. At a year or so of age many males will aquire blood red eyes.
(Bibless VS bibbed male)
(Example of a silver male who lacks a bib as well as lacking any pink/red tint to the vent area)
Pairs, Trios, Or a Flock?:
King quail are mostly monogamous so they thrive in pairs. You can keep pairs in their own enclosure, or keep multiple pairs together. They can sometimes also be kept in trios (1 male to 2 hens), although the second hen is often ignored especially if the male is paired to another hen already. Flock settings often result in plucking and fighting without appropriate space so read the section on caging if you've skipped past it. In a flock setting there should always be one hen for every male. Keep a watchful eye on any bullies- If there is fighting to the point of injury the injured bird and it's mate as well as the aggressor and his mate should both be separated into their own enclosures until they have fully recovered. Separated birds can be carefully reintroduced later on.
Note: A lack of fighting etc does NOT mean your birds are stress free- Inappropriate housing will always be stressful to birds even if they are still laying and behaving normally. This is hard on their bodies and will result in a shorter lifespan as well as making them more prone to illness.
The best way to introduce or reintroduce is A: Introduce them in neutral territory (depending on the enclosure simply reorganizing everything can work. Simply remove the birds reorginization and put everyone including the new birds back once you're finished.)
or B: Place the new or reintroduced birds into a smaller cage within the enclosure with their own food and water and let them out after about a week. Remember to continue watching for at least another week regardless of which introduction method you use. A bit of chasing is normal when a new bird is introduced.
Note: Newly acquired birds should always be quarantined fully seperate from current birds (no matter the species) for a full month to prevent spread of disease (even birds without symptoms may be carrying something).
Breeding:
They can be bred in a flock setting with multiple pairs but only if all birds get along with no chasing or plucking (occasional chasing without a physical attack is normal). Generally when breeding King quail each pair should have their own enclosure for best results and to keep track of heritage etc. Trios can also work however they should be watched closely in case the male/his partner becomes aggressive towards the second female. Some males will also ignore a second hen altogether. King quail generally start laying around 12 weeks of age however it is best to wait until about 4-5 months of age before breeding. In older males and hens fertility may drop so breeding stock 1-2 years of age is best. Some hens/males will remain very fertile for several years especially when taken good care of and these birds can continue to be used in breeding so long as no health issues arise in them or their offspring.
Selecting eggs:
For best results eggs should be less than 10 days old. After this hatch rates usually decrease. The same goes for refridgerating- It should be avoided. Eggs should be stored at room temperature or slightly cooled (there are reports of eggs developing if temps go above 60F). Make sure they are handled gently and stored pointy end down. Candle before incubating to ensure there aren't any cracks or else bacteria will leak in and will often kill the embryo. A bad egg can affect other eggs as well.
Hatching & Raising Chicks:
There are a few different methods to hatching King quail eggs the most common being the incubator method. Other methods include Natural (parent raised), or fostering. Eggs generally take 16 days to hatch. Below you will find information on several methods of incubation.
Incubator Method:
For the first 13 days humidity should be kept around 45-50% and if an egg turner is not used the eggs need to be turned 3-4 times a day. On the 13th day they should go into "lockdown". At this point the humidity should be upped to around 70%, stop turning eggs (or remove egg turners) and the incubator should remain closed until most of the eggs have hatched (Day 16-17). Chicks should be put into the brooder once fully/mostly dry and fluffy. For incubators with a mesh bottom it is best to put a rag or rough textured paper towels over the bottom as the chicks incredibly tiny feet may fall through or get stuck otherwise. In some incubators you may not need to do this. The same goes for the brooder, Watch the chicks and if any have trouble with their feet falling through, give them a rag or rough paper towels.
(Incubator chicks, about half an hour old & at a few hours old)
Natural Method:
This method may prove tricky as many hens may not go broody. A large cage with lots of natural (or natural looking) cover and a good diet with increased protein will greatly increase chances of broodiness. The nest should remain unbothered if possible or it may be abandoned if the hen is skittish. Males can stay with the hen but should be watched closely the first few days as some males may be aggressive or overly curious towards the chicks (for example picking at their feet thinking its a worm/food). A male should be removed immedietly if any signs of aggression present themselves (Throwing chicks around by the feet, excessive pecking or chasing, large areas of feathers/down missing, or other injuries). Often the male will assist in incubation and or chick raising while other males may ignore their offspring completely. In the case of a mesh floor caging, The floor may need to be covered with paper towels until the chicks are about 2 weeks old. The hen will take care of teaching the chicks to eat and drink as well as brooding them. If chicks are found dead or dying, or the mother is very obviously ignoring them or being aggressive the babies should be separated into a brooder.
Tip: To start with eggs should be left in the nest and only collected every week or so until the hen shows signs of broodiness. Once the hen starts showing signs of broodiness such as sitting longer throughout the day and being poofy and angry you should stop collecting the eggs. If she has stopped laying at this point and doesn't have a full clutch you can add back several of the newer eggs you collected previously (clutch size should be 5-8 however for a first time mother 3-4 may be better)
(First time Broody hen on her 3 eggs)
(Out of 3 eggs, 2 hatched. Due to the cage type they were in at the time, parents and chicks were moved at a few hours old once they began trying to leave the nest. The family was moved to a small cage for the first week of the chicks life. 1st pic is hatch day, 2nd is 2-3 days of age, 3rd is the 2 sisters at about 4 months and back in the flock.)
Fostering:
For this method other quail species can be used or (with caution) bantam chicken hens. In the case of chickens the smallest breed possible should be used as King quail chicks are much smaller than other quail (only about half the size of a Coturnix for example). For chickens it is best to sneak the eggs under and remove her own eggs. She should also be fully separated from the flock as other hens will eat the eggs and may even eat the chicks once hatched. It is important to check on the chicks regularly for the first 2 days or so to ensure the foster truly accepts them.
(No photos of fostering available, however I had great success using my SilkieXcochin crosses to hatch and raise Coturnix Quail.)
Feeding/Watering Chicks:
Chicks should be fed gamebird starter supplemented with boiled egg, dried mealworms, or eggfood. Because of their tiny size, crumble needs to be crushed some more to a near dust-like consistency for the first few days. Boiled eggs should be mashed and given in small amounts until near adulthood for added protein to assist in proper growth. Egg food can be mixed with the crumble or mashed into the egg. Mealworms can also be crushed and given. They cannot reach into normal feeders until around a week of age (although some learn to jump inside) so food should be given on a flat dish such as a tupperware lid or something similar. For chicks a quail waterer should be used as a normal chick waterer is too big even with gravel or marbles added. A normal chick waterer can be used once they reach a week or two of age.
Into the Brooder:
The brooder should have a warm and cooler end. The area under the heat lamp should be around 100° Fahrenheit until the chicks start to rest further from the lamp, then temp should be decreased by about 5° every week. Once the chicks are near fully feathered they can usually go without the heat lamp during the day as long as the temperature remains around 80°. The water and food should be on the colder end of the incubator. A small amount of apple cider vinegar can be added to the water to boost immune health for the chicks. Personally I prefer a red bulb as it allows the chicks to sleep better. The packaging for bulbs will often tell you what distance gives a certain temperature depending on wattage. Chicks can be kept together until adulthood, however if any of the males begin showing aggression towards each other they may need to be separated.
(Day old & 4 day old chicks in a small temporary brooder before pickup by a customer)
Cagemates:
King quail can be kept with a variety of other birds such as finches or certain doves. Some finch species may begin to pluck the quails feathers (or those of other cage mates) for nest lining during breeding. This can usually be prevented by providing feathers from an alternate source, or other soft materials such as tissue strips. Doves or finches should have an alternate feeder out of the quails reach to supply seed. I have kept Society, Zebra, Shaft-tailed, And Orange cheeked waxbill finches with my quail as well as Diamond doves. Male Zebras are more likely to pluck other birds for their feathers.
Other quail: Kings can generally only be kept with other king quail. Other species should not be attempted by inexperienced keepers and only in the largest of enclosures.
(Diamond doves and a zebra finch hen in background)
(Society finch Male. This is one of the only domesticated finch species and is best sexed by singing/behavior)
(Zebra finch pair (English type))
More images:
(Wild Pair- Captive wild type birds are similar. Image off of Google.)
(Captive Wild type pair, female hidden in background. Male has not yet attained red eyes.)
(One of the naturally raised chicks preening her flockmate. About 6 weeks old and aquired chestnut coloration as she aged.)
(Chestnut male (father of above) at about a year of age before being fully chestnut)
(Sept 2021 has been fully chestnut for about 2 years)
(Wild type male at a few months old. His eyes had begun to turn red here)
Feel free to join my group! https://m.facebook.com/groups/1446892082426077/?ref=share&mibextid=S66gvF
About King Quails:
Although commonly referred to as "Button quail" in captivity the true name of these little birds is King quail. The true Buttonquail isn't even a quail- they are currently placed with the Charadriiformes, which are shorebirds. Other common names for King Quail include, Blue-breasted Quail, Asian Blue Quail, or Chinese Painted Quail. They are the smallest true quail, and in the wild are native to parts of Asia, Australia, and China. There are 10 different subspecies. The species gets it's "blue" and "painted" names due to the wild/typical type coloring of the male- black and white facial markings, a blue chest, red underparts, and a brown back. The wild type female is camouflaged brown above, with a beige underside, barred with brown. Her face and throat are marked with orangeish beige.
Size: 4-5 inches long and weigh around 0.99-1.4 ounces fully grown.
Lifespan: 3-6 years “average”. Can live up to 15 years. Age depends very heavily on genetics and how well they are cared for. Most birds live 18 months to 3 years due to improper care/bad genetics.
Caging/Enclosures:
Like all quail they are very active and need a decent amount of space. The cage should be fairly long to allow for lots of back and forth walking. An enclosure measuring 36"L x 24"W (or 6 square ft) is the humane minimum for a single pair. The cage should be increased by 4 square ft per added pair. (Do keep in mind, bigger is always better.)
Although they are not perching birds, overhead space is required in case of a spook. Sometimes they'll also get excited and will enjoy some space to flutter into the air or even fly loops (mine do so often!). When spooked they will jump straight up into the air which in some cases can result in severe injury or even kill the bird. This is not an issue if the cage has appropriate height which is around 3 ft minimum. However if you are still worried you can hang loose 1/4 inch netting or a sheet tightly 4 inches or so below the top of the cage to act as a cushion for a bird. A common myth is that short cages are needed to prevent injuries/death. This is false and short cages are more dangerous to the birds as they have powerful legs and may hit nearly full force.
Many people keep King quail in aquariums however this is not appropriate for multiple reasons.
1: Birds cannot comprehend glass so they are constantly mentally stressed by trying to go through it and not understanding what's stopping them.
2: Birds have incredibly sensitive lungs and the trapped dust and particles due to lack of air flow causes health issues as well as quickly contributing to an early death. (Keep in mind many of these health issues will NOT be visually noticeable.)
3: The lack of height is also more likely to result in an injury.
4: Since for most tanks the lid is at the top and most don't have a side sliding door it also makes birds more likely to spook and jump out or just be stressed in general, as in the wild predators such as hawks and falcons come from above.
5: The majority of aquariums/tanks/bins commonly used are nowhere near big enough for even one bird much less several.
The best option is usually to build your own cage, as it gives you control over size and accessibility. For a mesh cage 1/2 inch hardware cloth is suitable for the walls and roof, & 1/4 inch should be used for the floor. If you plan on allowing the pair to raise babies, 1/4 inch should be used for the walls as well (Or at least the bottom 4 inches). Another better option is to have a solid flooring. This can be done by building the bottom frame out of wood or some sort of plastic sheet with a sand or gravel flooring. Natural soil can also be used. Quail also enjoy things to hide under, so in the case of natural soil, safe plants can be added to the cage for a more natural look. Keep in mind, in a planted enclosure it should be fairly heavily planted as quail like to eat certain parts. Safe Fake plants can also be used. They also enjoy climbing on occasion so ledges can be placed along a wall at varying heights, Or a few old stumps can be added as well as rocks. They should also have a large dustbath filled with either sand or natural soil. (Do not use if pesticides have been used on or near the soil)
Example of an appropriate indoor enclosure from a friend.
Enrichment: Climbing opportunities and things to hide under/inside of as mentioned above are enjoyed and count as forms of enrichment. Otherwise seeds or mealworms can be sprinkled in the sandbox or a dish can be filled with leaves and have seeds scattered in for the birds to forage. Sprinkling seed on a large rough textured piece of bark also provides the opportunity for birds to pick around. In the case of enclosures with a sand/soil flooring with plants you can simply sprinkle the treats around the entire enclosure and even scatter feed the birds this way by including their base diet in the mix.
Tip for outdoor enclosures: If temps go below 40° fahrenheit the birds may need be supplied with a heat lamp in a draft free corner. The enclosure should also be covered with a sheet or thin plastic for the night. Most often birds who are properly acclimated will have no issue with the cold however if it freezes for longer periods of time they may need extra insulation or to be brought indoors.
Extra note: Things to climb are an absolute must for mesh enclosures so the birds can rest their feet and wear their nails down naturally. A sand box or other dust bathing opportunity is required regardless of what enclosure you choose.
Feeding / Watering: They can be fed Hen layer as a base, however Gamebird starter is more appropriate especially if you want eggs as they need higher protein than chickens for example. This should be supplemented with a finch seed mix as well as a wide variety of greens/veggies, sprouted seeds, and mealworms or unseasoned mashed boiled/scrambled egg. Feeding only seed can result in overweight birds and diet deficiencies. Birds should have access to fresh water at all times. A normal chick waterer can be used for adult birds. For veggies they can be minced so they can easily eat a large variety. Make sure the veggies you feed are bird safe. Veggies/seeds and sprouted seeds can be offered daily and should not be fed less often than once a week at least.
Sexing:
In many color types the male will have visible "bib" markings on the face or a blue chest (may extend up the neck and to the face depending on color type). In color types without a bib, the blue chest or red vent/underside area can be used to tell males from females. Some color types such as pure whites need to be sexed by behavior/sounds and silvers occasionally fall under this category as well since not all males have a bib. Some silver males who lack a bib may have a pink/reddish tint to the vent area however this is not a guarantee. An accurate way to test a mature males gender is to sprinkle seed or mealworms on the ground. He will pick them up and call to the females/his mate. At a year or so of age many males will aquire blood red eyes.
(Bibless VS bibbed male)
(Example of a silver male who lacks a bib as well as lacking any pink/red tint to the vent area)
Pairs, Trios, Or a Flock?:
King quail are mostly monogamous so they thrive in pairs. You can keep pairs in their own enclosure, or keep multiple pairs together. They can sometimes also be kept in trios (1 male to 2 hens), although the second hen is often ignored especially if the male is paired to another hen already. Flock settings often result in plucking and fighting without appropriate space so read the section on caging if you've skipped past it. In a flock setting there should always be one hen for every male. Keep a watchful eye on any bullies- If there is fighting to the point of injury the injured bird and it's mate as well as the aggressor and his mate should both be separated into their own enclosures until they have fully recovered. Separated birds can be carefully reintroduced later on.
Note: A lack of fighting etc does NOT mean your birds are stress free- Inappropriate housing will always be stressful to birds even if they are still laying and behaving normally. This is hard on their bodies and will result in a shorter lifespan as well as making them more prone to illness.
The best way to introduce or reintroduce is A: Introduce them in neutral territory (depending on the enclosure simply reorganizing everything can work. Simply remove the birds reorginization and put everyone including the new birds back once you're finished.)
or B: Place the new or reintroduced birds into a smaller cage within the enclosure with their own food and water and let them out after about a week. Remember to continue watching for at least another week regardless of which introduction method you use. A bit of chasing is normal when a new bird is introduced.
Note: Newly acquired birds should always be quarantined fully seperate from current birds (no matter the species) for a full month to prevent spread of disease (even birds without symptoms may be carrying something).
Breeding:
They can be bred in a flock setting with multiple pairs but only if all birds get along with no chasing or plucking (occasional chasing without a physical attack is normal). Generally when breeding King quail each pair should have their own enclosure for best results and to keep track of heritage etc. Trios can also work however they should be watched closely in case the male/his partner becomes aggressive towards the second female. Some males will also ignore a second hen altogether. King quail generally start laying around 12 weeks of age however it is best to wait until about 4-5 months of age before breeding. In older males and hens fertility may drop so breeding stock 1-2 years of age is best. Some hens/males will remain very fertile for several years especially when taken good care of and these birds can continue to be used in breeding so long as no health issues arise in them or their offspring.
Selecting eggs:
For best results eggs should be less than 10 days old. After this hatch rates usually decrease. The same goes for refridgerating- It should be avoided. Eggs should be stored at room temperature or slightly cooled (there are reports of eggs developing if temps go above 60F). Make sure they are handled gently and stored pointy end down. Candle before incubating to ensure there aren't any cracks or else bacteria will leak in and will often kill the embryo. A bad egg can affect other eggs as well.
Hatching & Raising Chicks:
There are a few different methods to hatching King quail eggs the most common being the incubator method. Other methods include Natural (parent raised), or fostering. Eggs generally take 16 days to hatch. Below you will find information on several methods of incubation.
Incubator Method:
For the first 13 days humidity should be kept around 45-50% and if an egg turner is not used the eggs need to be turned 3-4 times a day. On the 13th day they should go into "lockdown". At this point the humidity should be upped to around 70%, stop turning eggs (or remove egg turners) and the incubator should remain closed until most of the eggs have hatched (Day 16-17). Chicks should be put into the brooder once fully/mostly dry and fluffy. For incubators with a mesh bottom it is best to put a rag or rough textured paper towels over the bottom as the chicks incredibly tiny feet may fall through or get stuck otherwise. In some incubators you may not need to do this. The same goes for the brooder, Watch the chicks and if any have trouble with their feet falling through, give them a rag or rough paper towels.
(Incubator chicks, about half an hour old & at a few hours old)
Natural Method:
This method may prove tricky as many hens may not go broody. A large cage with lots of natural (or natural looking) cover and a good diet with increased protein will greatly increase chances of broodiness. The nest should remain unbothered if possible or it may be abandoned if the hen is skittish. Males can stay with the hen but should be watched closely the first few days as some males may be aggressive or overly curious towards the chicks (for example picking at their feet thinking its a worm/food). A male should be removed immedietly if any signs of aggression present themselves (Throwing chicks around by the feet, excessive pecking or chasing, large areas of feathers/down missing, or other injuries). Often the male will assist in incubation and or chick raising while other males may ignore their offspring completely. In the case of a mesh floor caging, The floor may need to be covered with paper towels until the chicks are about 2 weeks old. The hen will take care of teaching the chicks to eat and drink as well as brooding them. If chicks are found dead or dying, or the mother is very obviously ignoring them or being aggressive the babies should be separated into a brooder.
Tip: To start with eggs should be left in the nest and only collected every week or so until the hen shows signs of broodiness. Once the hen starts showing signs of broodiness such as sitting longer throughout the day and being poofy and angry you should stop collecting the eggs. If she has stopped laying at this point and doesn't have a full clutch you can add back several of the newer eggs you collected previously (clutch size should be 5-8 however for a first time mother 3-4 may be better)
(First time Broody hen on her 3 eggs)
(Out of 3 eggs, 2 hatched. Due to the cage type they were in at the time, parents and chicks were moved at a few hours old once they began trying to leave the nest. The family was moved to a small cage for the first week of the chicks life. 1st pic is hatch day, 2nd is 2-3 days of age, 3rd is the 2 sisters at about 4 months and back in the flock.)
Fostering:
For this method other quail species can be used or (with caution) bantam chicken hens. In the case of chickens the smallest breed possible should be used as King quail chicks are much smaller than other quail (only about half the size of a Coturnix for example). For chickens it is best to sneak the eggs under and remove her own eggs. She should also be fully separated from the flock as other hens will eat the eggs and may even eat the chicks once hatched. It is important to check on the chicks regularly for the first 2 days or so to ensure the foster truly accepts them.
(No photos of fostering available, however I had great success using my SilkieXcochin crosses to hatch and raise Coturnix Quail.)
Feeding/Watering Chicks:
Chicks should be fed gamebird starter supplemented with boiled egg, dried mealworms, or eggfood. Because of their tiny size, crumble needs to be crushed some more to a near dust-like consistency for the first few days. Boiled eggs should be mashed and given in small amounts until near adulthood for added protein to assist in proper growth. Egg food can be mixed with the crumble or mashed into the egg. Mealworms can also be crushed and given. They cannot reach into normal feeders until around a week of age (although some learn to jump inside) so food should be given on a flat dish such as a tupperware lid or something similar. For chicks a quail waterer should be used as a normal chick waterer is too big even with gravel or marbles added. A normal chick waterer can be used once they reach a week or two of age.
Into the Brooder:
The brooder should have a warm and cooler end. The area under the heat lamp should be around 100° Fahrenheit until the chicks start to rest further from the lamp, then temp should be decreased by about 5° every week. Once the chicks are near fully feathered they can usually go without the heat lamp during the day as long as the temperature remains around 80°. The water and food should be on the colder end of the incubator. A small amount of apple cider vinegar can be added to the water to boost immune health for the chicks. Personally I prefer a red bulb as it allows the chicks to sleep better. The packaging for bulbs will often tell you what distance gives a certain temperature depending on wattage. Chicks can be kept together until adulthood, however if any of the males begin showing aggression towards each other they may need to be separated.
(Day old & 4 day old chicks in a small temporary brooder before pickup by a customer)
Cagemates:
King quail can be kept with a variety of other birds such as finches or certain doves. Some finch species may begin to pluck the quails feathers (or those of other cage mates) for nest lining during breeding. This can usually be prevented by providing feathers from an alternate source, or other soft materials such as tissue strips. Doves or finches should have an alternate feeder out of the quails reach to supply seed. I have kept Society, Zebra, Shaft-tailed, And Orange cheeked waxbill finches with my quail as well as Diamond doves. Male Zebras are more likely to pluck other birds for their feathers.
Other quail: Kings can generally only be kept with other king quail. Other species should not be attempted by inexperienced keepers and only in the largest of enclosures.
(Diamond doves and a zebra finch hen in background)
(Society finch Male. This is one of the only domesticated finch species and is best sexed by singing/behavior)
(Zebra finch pair (English type))
More images:
(Wild Pair- Captive wild type birds are similar. Image off of Google.)
(Captive Wild type pair, female hidden in background. Male has not yet attained red eyes.)
(One of the naturally raised chicks preening her flockmate. About 6 weeks old and aquired chestnut coloration as she aged.)
(Chestnut male (father of above) at about a year of age before being fully chestnut)
(Sept 2021 has been fully chestnut for about 2 years)
(Wild type male at a few months old. His eyes had begun to turn red here)
