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This turned out to be a great brooder design with multiple uses. It can hold up to 40 small chicks, used as a small grow out, or 1 or 2 section crate for full grown chickens. I wanted to build a larger and more sturdy brooder I could use for years to come. I also wanted some extras, easy to clean, and multi-use options. The divider allows you to separate sickly, special care, picked on, or any other chicks you want to divide out. Since it is raised off the ground, it is easier to reach and care for the chicks (as long as you are at least 4’ tall). There is no need to worry of flooding, and raised enough to store a bale of straw, package of shavings, or extra food underneath.
I had lots of help from and special thanks to my dad for his expertise, indoor build area, and all the cool tools. See figure 1 for all the measurements of the pieces you will need to cut. If it starts with a numberX example: 8X, you will need to cut 8 of those pieces. You may want to sand any rough edges as you go.
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Main Brooder Box:
Cut the 4 sides and the 6 support legs as shown in Fig.1. Clamp the sides to the posts-this is easier to have 2 people. The top of each side and the top of all the legs should be at the same level, and evened out. The 4 corner legs should be placed inside of the box and the 2 middle legs on the outside. Screw all the sides to the legs.
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Screw the L-brackets (Fig.4) at 20 3/4" from the top onto the 4 corner legs. These should all face the center of the brooder where the 2 front ones will face each other, and the 2 back ones will face each other. These will be what the removable floor will rest on. The 2 space filler 2x2 pieces will fill in the space between the 2 corner legs on the left and right sides. These should be centered on the L-brackets where 1" is above and 1" is below.
Decide how deep you want your drawers which will hold shavings. Add an extra 1/2" to the depth you want. This total will the the measurement between the bottom of the L-bracket to the top of the 3 drawer supports. Screw in the 3 drawer supports using the 2x2's Other Supports to support these. (Fig.3).
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Removable Floor:
Cut all floor boards as in Fig.1. Cut your hardware cloth 21 3/4" x 44". Lay the 2 longer boards on your workspace. Then center the hardware cloth and lay the 3 short boards on top. The hardware cloth should sit approximately 1/2" in from all sides, and be sandwiched between the 2 long boards and the 3 short boards. Screw the boards together, stretching the hardware cloth as you go. Using 1/2" large head screws, screw the cloth down every 3" or so on both top and bottom. Fig.9.
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If you want to add a divider at any point of time, you will need to cut your divider guides. These do not need to be exact. I used 1/2"x5"x1" X 2 pieces screwed to the center floor board in the middle. You will also need 4 1/2"x1"x2" X 4 pieces. 2 for the front guides, and 2 for the back guides. Fig.7.
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Drawers:
You can put the chicks directly on the drawers filled with shavings, or use the removable wire flooring. You can also remove the drawers for an open bottom for more ventilation for older chicks or chickens. Cut out the 4 drawer pieces (fig.1). Mine are 1" tall. Use a 90deg clamp corner or a T-square to keep your angles exact. I used a pocket hole screw driver to screw the 4 boards together.
Cut your piece of aluminum or flat metal flooring to the size of the drawer less 1/2" on all sides. This will keep it from rubbing. Center the bottom on the drawer frame. Use small 1/2 to 3/4" nails every inch all the way around to attach the floor. The drawer front is mostly decorative, but also provides a place for a handle. Cut a board to fit the length of the drawer. The height is up to you. I added 1 1/2" for room for the handle. You will need to also cut around the drawer supports. Attach the front with screws after you dry fit it to the drawer. The top of this front piece should line up to the top edge of the drawer. Measure for where you want to put your handle and drill a hole just large enough for the handle bolt to fit through. Repeat for your 2nd drawer.
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Lids:
These are great for ventilation and viewing your chicks, but keeping them secure. Cut the boards as in Fig1. Cut the hardware cloth 22 1/2" x 21". The boards on the lids will sandwich the hardware cloth. Lay the 2 longer pieces down at the right and left, then the 2 shorter pieces between those to form the square. Next, center the hardware cloth on the square. The last layer is 4 more boards. This time, you will lay the 2 long boards at the top and bottom, then the 2 shorter pieces between those. (Fig 8) This will allow you to screw each end of each board to the other layer. Stretch out the cloth as you go.
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The front and the back of each lid should fit flush with the front and the back of the brooder. It should have a small overhang on each side with just a tiny space between the lids so they do not rub each other when opening and closing. Center the latch on each lid and screw it to the lid and the front of your brooder. This will secure your brooder from predators. Repeat for the 2nd lid. If you plan on using a heat lamp, you can hang it from the lid using an S hook, or hang it above the lid.

Handles/Sidebars:
Cut your 2x2's to the width of your brooder. Place them about 8-10" from the top on each end of your brooder. Using a level, screw each end into the corner post. Repeat for the second one.

Cords:
If you plan to have a panel heater of some sort inside of your brooder, you will need to cut a path for the cord into the back of the brooder. You will also need to cut a notch in the removable floor with enough room to string your cord into the box. I placed mine in the center so I can heat either side easily.

Divider: You can use glass, plywood board, plexiglass, or anything semi-sturdy you want to use. Cut it to the inside width of the brooder, and 1" less than the height of the floor to top measurement.

You could also add an optional roost. I used 2 curtain rod holders and a wood piece, but the possibilities are endless.
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The one thing I would change is sandwiching the wire for the floor instead of the edges being exposed. This would make it easier to clean.
Now the fun part-Paint and add chicks!!!
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