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Orpington

The original Orpington, the Black, was developed in England in 1886 and brought to the US in...

General Information

Breed Purpose
Dual Purpose
Comb
Single
Broodiness
Frequent
Climate Tolerance
All Climates
Egg Productivity
Medium
Egg Size
Large
Egg Color
Light Brown
Breed Temperament
Friendly, Easily handled, Calm, Bears confinement well, Quiet, Docile
Breed Colors/Varieties
USA APA: Buff, Black, White, BlueSplash in not recognized at this time.Also there are a few other colors of Orpington Projects under way in the USA as of today.
Breed Size
Large Fowl
APA/ABA Class
English
Color
The original breed colours/varieties are black, white, buff, blue and splash
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The popular Orpington breed originated from the town of Orpington, Kent, in south-east England, where the original black Orpington was bred by William Cook in 1886. (Mr Cook also created the Orpington duck breed). Mr Cook crossed Minorcas, Langshans and Plymouth Rocks to create a new hybrid breed, from which he selected to breed a black bird, that would also exhibit well, by hiding the dirt and soot of London.
The breed was shown in Madison Square Gardens in 1895 and its popularity soared. Its large size and soft appearance together with its beautiful colours make it very attractive breed and as such its popularity has grown as a show bird rather than a utility breed. Hens are fairly often broody and are good mothers. Although rather heavy, they are able to fly small distances but rarely do so.
The original breed colours/varieties are black, white, buff, blue and splash. Although there are many additional varieties recognised throughout the world, for example the Jubilee Orpington, only the original colours are recognised by the American Standard, the Buff being the most common colour. In the beginning of the twentieth century, Herman Kuhn of Germany developed a Bantam variety of Orpingtons and the Bantam retains the appearance of the LF Orpingtons, but in a smaller size. There is a large variety of colours in the Bantam version, including black, blue laced, white, buff, red, buff black laced, barred, buff Columbian, and birchen.

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Orpington hen with chick

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Orpington chick

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Orpington hen

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Orpington juvenile

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Orpington rooster

For more about Orpingtons and their breeders's and owners' experiences with them, see our breed discussion here:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/chicken-breed-focus-orpington.1088559/

Latest reviews

Pros: Sweet, good for families, love people, calm and cuddly, good egg layers.
Cons: Sometimes get bullied. Also prone to get overweight easily.
Very sweet and gentle.
Orpington
Pros: THEIR SO CUTE! and other stuff people mentioned lol
Cons: THEIR ARE NONE! lol same as other people
I love them especially the Buff Orpington they are very nice and they learn well!
I wanted to do this because i LOVE them.
Purchase Price
.......
Purchase Date
........
Great Friendly Chickens!
Pros: Friendly and easy to handle
Calm and quiet temperament
Cons: Medium egg productivity
ok broodiness for hatching chicks
I really like my Orpingtons! They’re super friendly and easy to deal with—great if you’re new to chickens. They’re also really calm and quiet, so no annoying noise, which is nice if you live somewhere a little tighter. They lay decent-sized brown eggs, though not a ton of them. I love how they look. they are pretty birds with lots of color options. They’re on the heavier side, but they can still fly short distances if they want to. All in all, I definitely recommend them!
Purchase Price
got 6 for $5.95 each
Purchase Date
don't remember, lol

Comments

BO's may be very gentle birds with humans yes, however, when your a bird and push comes to shove-- they shove hard. Bo's will grow to 10 to maybe 12 lbs, and silkies weigh in at how much. I guess it's like elementary school, even though the kids are all about the same age, there will always be a kid a little bigger than the rest of them and they usually turn out to be a bully just because they can be.
The bully will usually make sure that they get the best food too,(cracked corn, sunflower seeds etc) same as the bully at recess time takes the good snacks from his class mates.
In my opinion, If I were you just getting started, either keep two separate flocks or divide the coop and the outdoor run for each breed. However if your going to let them free range, run around in the yard, then the little ones will be just fine as long as sleeping arrangements are separate. Which is exactly what I am going to do in early spring as brooding season approaches for safety sake.
 
Have had buff orpingtons a few times. They never went broody. I ordered 25. 22 pullets, 3 roosters. Was assured this is a very broody strain. Time will tell. I like to hatch with hens.
 
BO's are simply bullies, but I have never had a drop of blood shed as of yet. They know better, lol, the last bird that caused blood to drip off another, was invited over for supper. (Guess what we had---CHICKEN!) I culled him very quickly and got him undressed for his warm bath then had him for supper. NO FIGHTING, NO EXCUSES!
 
so far the buff prpingtons and barred rock are my favorite hens! they are loving well except daisey, she is a BO she can be quite rough sometimes. but i understand because she is on the bottom of the ladder of the 3 i have. so i give her allowance but she still loves to get in my lap and get hugs. eventhough you may get a peck or two beofre you put her down she still wants to be there. go figure :)
 
Mine are 3 years old now and have slowed way down on laying. They are beautiful. Only had a couple of them go broodie.
 
I am also an Orpington maniac. After visiting inlaws in England a few years ago, when I returned home I rid the flock of all other breeds and have dedicated the barn to the preservation of heritage Buff Orpingtons and non-Buff Orpingtons.
Definitely get an Orpington Roo!
 
I'm getting ready to buy our first ever Buffs.... I'm a newbie so I think this should be a good breed to start out with... My wife thinks I am nuts raising chickens... I figure the Buffs will win over hear heart... She loves animals.
 
Hi there. I am a brand new chicken person. So brand new that I don't even have any yet. lol. I get 27 chicks on Feb 13. We are so excited but nervous too. Our cardboard box brooder is ready but the coop has not even started so I a bit nervous at this point. Which brings me to your post. How in the world do you keep chickens in your kitchen?? :-O I know that is not an option for me with 27 of them but everything I am reading and learning about it seems like it would be hard to keep them in the kitchen with the dust and scratching and stuff. Did you have any problems with that? Did they scratch up your floor at all? Were you still able to get in there and cook? I know I am going to love my chickens SO much I will probably want to carry them around with me AND bring them in the house but I guess I didn't know you really could. Sounds like fun though. :)
 
When I first got them they were so tiny that 4 of them fit onto a tea cup saucer. They lived in a portable hutch in my kitchen where I could maintain the temperature and keep them draft free. The draft free is very important. The hutch is plastic on the bottom and the plastic goes up about 4" up then a wire top with a hinged top. Altogether about 2" by 3' by 16" high. You see them in pet stores for rabbits or guinea pigs. I got mine in a thrift store for $2.00
I had pine shaving bedding and a plastic quart waterer and a feeder. If you are going to use wood shavings make sure you use PINE bedding as cedar is TOXIC to birds. Pine is nice because it is clean and smells good and you can put it into your compost when it gets too dirty. I use pine in my coop as well and just put new layers on as it gets dirty. The chickens scratch it around and keep it aerated. Every 6 months or so I shovel it all out and put it into the compost. My garden is very happy.
I put a portable lamp on the wire top and a thermometer in the cage at floor level.
They needed to be kept around 95 degrees.
You slowly reduce the temperature by lifting the light up farther away as they get older and have more feathers. You reduce it by about 1 degree a day to 85 degrees. They slept together in a fluffy lump and still do as adults.
When they got too big for the hutch I moved them into the run but in a segregated section. I used an old plastic baby gate to keep them separate from my other adult chicks.Same run different area. I put the lamp out with them and a sheltered box laid on its side for them to go into. The nights are cool in Vancouver so they needed warmth in the nights. If you live in a hot climate you probably would not need a warmth source at this point.
You cannot put baby chicks with adults. The adults might attack them. This is the "pecking" order. With the baby gate separating them they could see and hear each other, but have their own space. As you are getting yours as babies and not introducing them to adults you don't have to worry about this.
I left the babies in there for about 3-4 weeks until they were fairly large, they grow so fast it is simply amazing. I had taken the light out as they no longer needed it. When I thought they could hold their own I took the gate out at night time. The next morning they all mixed in together with no attacks or stress.
The 3 orpingtons still move around together and roost together and are obviously very attached to each other. If one is a roo and I have to move him out I know they will be very upset. (we cannot keep roos in Vancouver)
Good luck with your chicks. I know you will love them and they will enrich your life.
PS they do not come into my kitchen as adults!
 
My husband thinks I also am a nut, but so what?! We raised our chicks in a cardboard box home-built "brooder." This made them easy-access for holding and petting by the kids and me for those first few weeks, and I think it really created some bonding. All six of the hens we started in the house are very docile. Their friendliness makes them very pleasant to have around. If they are ranging in the yard they will flock to anyone who comes outside, especially if you shake the cracked corn can!
 
I love Orpingtons too! I had 4 that I got from our local ag store. One ended up having spasms anytime it got excited so we named her Spaz, but by the time it got to full size, it stopped spazzing and no one could determine which one was Spaz. All my Orpingtons could be walked up to and they'd squatt down for me to pick them up and carry them back to their coop when they got out. The other chickens ran! Made me love my Orpingtons even more!
Plus the breed is reknowned for being good setting hens. So you can use them to set and hatch out other poultry types, including other breeds of poultry. I'm thinking of building a setting compound that would allow me to have Orpingham foster moms hatch out some turkey and other eggs.
I've got King Pigeons coming this spring too and figure that when the hens get broody I can have them go to work hatching out quail and other small egg varieties of poultry that I'm wanting to also raise. Of course bantam hens can also be used to hatch out small poultry varieties when they get broody as well.
 
I agree, and had a wonderful Orpinton that raised 3 clutches for me. Such a good broody hen, but something got her last summer, and the opinton chicks I bought were weak and died. I need some more.
 
yh they are! I love them, ive got two buffs and they are sooooo cuteeee! Are orpington cocks aggressive?? Because I was hoping to breed my two with a splash, but dont know whether the cock would harass my other hens??
 
No my cock is very sweet and since he has been introduced into my layer flock he has developed his own fan club of hens! My poor RIR doesn't stand a chance.
 
:) sounds great! Not like my old Dorking cock, in the end we had to sell him to a petting zoo as he was great with humans but tough on the hens.
 
I'm new to chickens. Mine will be here Feb 20th and I ordered 4 Buff Orpingtons. I've only heard good things about them.
 

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