Absolutely bloody viscous fights between my 2 hens. What to do?

[Inesg9]

i have two brown hens. They were best friends when I got them just in April. Then one got attacked by the neighbor’s dog and had to live inside the house to recover and heal. When I tried to reintroduce them they are going against each other with a force and visciousness that I would’ve never expected. I left the healed chicken in a dog crate in the run for two weeks now to get them familiar again, but had to cover the crate with really small Mesh wire because they were pecking each other bloody without it through the cage. Then I let one run free and lock the other one on the chicken house and rotate since one week now. They still peck through the wire Mesh, but can’t hurt each other. Today I tried to let them meet each other and within seconds they were up in the air fighting like 2 fighter roosters. I separated them immediately, but one of them broke a toe in the mess and is limping now. They seem equally strong and none of them shows any sign of submission. I have no idea what to do?????

 

[azygous]

While your injured hen was recovering, the other one declared herself top hen. Now, the two have reunited, so to speak, and they have a serious disagreement as to which should be the boss of the other one. This is normal.

Usually, chickens work through this sort of thing very quickly, but occasionally, neither one is agreeable to backing down. So the disagreement continues.

By preventing them from settling the matter in chicken terms, you are actually prolonging the conflict. I know it's uncomfortable to watch, and it looks like they're hurting each other, but it would be an extremely rare thing if they hurt each other badly enough to kill one of them.

Try to let them work it out. You will know if things have gone too far if you see one literally standing on the other one, hammering away at her head. If that happens, then you need to break it up.

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

Unfortunately they need to fight it out to reestablish the pecking order. Separating by a fence for a few more weeks may work, though as you have seen there still will be some fighting. You should never remove a chicken from the flock totally and should separate within sight. Hopefully your girls eventually work it out without too much blood.

 

[Inesg9]

Thank you for your comments and tips. I will try to go through it and let them battle. I guess I’m too sensitive for it. I wish the vet would’ve told me to leave them close together. She suggested to put the sick chicken inside so flies wouldn’t get to the wound. Hope they won’t hack their eyes out.

 

[azygous]

They usually go for each other's combs or wattles. One may get a good grip and hang on, usually it's the one who will end up winning. There may be blood because these appendages do bleed, but it won't kill them, and they heal quickly.

When it's all over, they'll be friends again and they'll go find a nice dirt batch and clean themselves up.

Next time you need to bring an injured hen indoors, bring her friend with her to keep her company.

 

[centrarchid]

I have been able to cut short battles by intervening in a manner that causes them to tire quicker or be exhausted before fight begins. Less motivation at start of conflict reduces odds real damage will occur and reduces duration of fight. You may still make use of the cage so looser can be kept in it during calm down phase so winner does not have access to attack defeated trying to get away.

I used to play around trying to break game chickens of being game. Not successful with mature male games but did adapt it to immature birds and adult non-games.

 

[getaclue]

If they don't settle down in a few minutes, or it starts to get bloody, intervene by chasing them to separate corners. A few rounds of that, and they should start to settle down. IF not, you can take the head hen (not the recovered one), and put her in the cage in the coop, for a few days.

 

[Nksg75]

I have been able to cut short battles by intervening in a manner that causes them to tire quicker or be exhausted before fight begins. Less motivation at start of conflict reduces odds real damage will occur and reduces duration of fight. You may still make use of the cage so looser can be kept in it during calm down phase so winner does not have access to attack defeated trying to get away.

I used to play around trying to break game chickens of being game. Not successful with mature male games but did adapt it to immature birds and adult non-games.

Ok, do tell!! How did you do this??
I need a lesson!! I am also a little sensitive and would like to know how?

 

[aart]

Thank you for your comments and tips. I will try to go through it and let them battle. I guess I’m too sensitive for it. I wish the vet would’ve told me to leave them close together. She suggested to put the sick chicken inside so flies wouldn’t get to the wound. Hope they won’t hack their eyes out.

How much space do they have...in feet by feet...with pics?
Are they confined to a coop and run?

Go back to basics.
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

This used to be a better search, new format has reduced it's efficacy, but still:
Read up on integration..... BYC advanced search>titles only>integration
This is good place to start reading, BUT some info is outdated IMO:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/adding-to-your-flock

 

[Inesg9]

I have been able to cut short battles by intervening in a manner that causes them to tire quicker or be exhausted before fight begins. Less motivation at start of conflict reduces odds real damage will occur and reduces duration of fight. You may still make use of the cage so looser can be kept in it during calm down phase so winner does not have access to attack defeated trying to get away.

I used to play around trying to break game chickens of being game. Not successful with mature male games but did adapt it to immature birds and adult non-games.