Building a coop! Questions as we go....

SouthsideCoop

In the Brooder
Apr 6, 2024
6
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1. A poop tray under the roost that can be cleaned like cat litter sounds perfect. We have some vinyl laminate flooring boards left over from a new floor in our human coop. Would those be safe to use in a chicken coop? Any thoughts on how to attach rims to it?

2. I've read that it's best to have roosts at same height, but I see photos of multi level roosts. Any definitive thoughts or is it simply a matter of knowing your flock?

3. Based on the materials we have gathered, our location in eastern section of LA Basin (just below the passes to the high and low deserts), and our own aging, we are leaning towards a semi- open, walk-in coop:
a. We have 48" full plywood pallets. We will have hardware cloth up to roof so there will be a 2- 3 foot opening around the coop. I've read that chickens should not roost in drafty areas. So how do you not have drafty areas in an open coop? Where should the roost go?​
b. If our human size door opens to the run do we need a chicken door?​
Also, the coop is on the south side of our house to be sheltered from the Santa Ana winds. There are some shrubs we planted years back to shade the southern window, and luckily, we planted them far enough out that the coop can fit just between!​
Thanks for your assistance!
Amy​
 
We have some vinyl laminate flooring boards left over from a new floor in our human coop. Would those be safe to use in a chicken coop? Any thoughts on how to attach rims to it?
You could attach the flooring to a sub-floor material like plywood or OSB that is attached to a frame. This is the way I built my poop boards:
1714663456212.png

1714663479626.png

White is a 2x4 frame, red is the plywood, blue are ledge boards I made from ripped 1x boards.
I've read that it's best to have roosts at same height, but I see photos of multi level roosts. Any definitive thoughts or is it simply a matter of knowing your flock?
This is a matter of preference. BUT high roosts are coveted locations so having all one level leaves one less thing to fight over at roost time.
I've read that chickens should not roost in drafty areas.
This is only applicable during freezing temperatures.
Which you likely don't have in LA.
Where should the roost go?​
Right in front of windows that open out and are secured with 1/2" hardware cloth.
If our human size door opens to the run do we need a chicken door?
You can if that works best for your design.
 
1. A poop tray under the roost that can be cleaned like cat litter sounds perfect. We have some vinyl laminate flooring boards left over from a new floor in our human coop. Would those be safe to use in a chicken coop? Any thoughts on how to attach rims to it?

2. I've read that it's best to have roosts at same height, but I see photos of multi level roosts. Any definitive thoughts or is it simply a matter of knowing your flock?

3. Based on the materials we have gathered, our location in eastern section of LA Basin (just below the passes to the high and low deserts), and our own aging, we are leaning towards a semi- open, walk-in coop:
a. We have 48" full plywood pallets. We will have hardware cloth up to roof so there will be a 2- 3 foot opening around the coop. I've read that chickens should not roost in drafty areas. So how do you not have drafty areas in an open coop? Where should the roost go?​

b. If our human size door opens to the run do we need a chicken door?​

Also, the coop is on the south side of our house to be sheltered from the Santa Ana winds. There are some shrubs we planted years back to shade the southern window, and luckily, we planted them far enough out that the coop can fit just between!​
Thanks for your assistance!
Amy​
Hi there! Only advice I can give you is USE 1/2 inch HARDWARE CLOTH!! DO NOT USE CHICKEN WIRE!! Chicken wire rusts too easily and can be easily ripped/chewed through. Hardware cloth is much more predator proof.
When we built our first coop we used chicken wire and about 1 year later, a fox or raccoon got in and killed three roosters and one hen... Make sure NOTHING can get in your coop! It will save you so much stress!


Also, I think a human door is perfectly fine for chickens as well. It's mainly just your preference on if you want a chicken door as well.

Best wishes to you!!
 
As for the door, you can put a chicken door in the people door, rather than cutting another hole in the wall.

Whenever we get a new foster dog I end up saying, "thank you, Lord, for the laminated floor". It holds up real well. What will the subfloor be made of? I suggest marine board.

I prefer all the roosts at the same height as I have seen the girls all try to perch on the highest bar. The highest bar is coveted, not just because it shows dominance, but it would be the safest bar. Chickens always want to go to the highest roost, it's instinctive. But, I have seen photos of chickens spreading themselves out amongst roosts that are at different levels. Cannot predict how yours will behave.
 
Hi there! Only advice I can give you is USE 1/2 inch HARDWARE CLOTH!! DO NOT USE CHICKEN WIRE!! Chicken wire rusts too easily and can be easily ripped/chewed through. Hardware cloth is much more predator proof.
When we built our first coop we used chicken wire and about 1 year later, a fox or raccoon got in and killed three roosters and one hen... Make sure NOTHING can get in your coop! It will save you so much stress!


Also, I think a human door is perfectly fine for chickens as well. It's mainly just your preference on if you want a chicken door as well.

Best wishes to you!!
We don't have drafty cold weather in Houston ever.
My coop is open on 3 sides. My chickens will be 8 years old next month.
Thanks, Kiki...taking away some of my concerns.
You could attach the flooring to a sub-floor material like plywood or OSB that is attached to a frame. This is the way I built my poop boards:
View attachment 3818623
View attachment 3818624
White is a 2x4 frame, red is the plywood, blue are ledge boards I made from ripped 1x boards.

This is a matter of preference. BUT high roosts are coveted locations so having all one level leaves one less thing to fight over at roost time.

This is only applicable during freezing temperatures.

Which you likely don't have in LA.

Right in front of windows that open out and are secured with 1/2" hardware cloth.

You can if that works best for your design.
Thanks, DobieLover. And thanks for the poop board plan!
 
2. I've read that it's best to have roosts at same height, but I see photos of multi level roosts. Any definitive thoughts or is it simply a matter of knowing your flock?
Both work. With either, the most dominant get to sleep where they want. They can push others out of the way to get there. High spots are usually preferred. If they are all the same height a certain location may be preferred. With mine, in front of the window is preferred.

With chickens very few things are "definitive". Many different things can usually work.

3. Based on the materials we have gathered, our location in eastern section of LA Basin (just below the passes to the high and low deserts), and our own aging, we are leaning towards a semi- open, walk-in coop:
How many total chickens do you plan for. If you squeeze them a bit you can probably get eight chickens in a coop you cannot get into. Any more than that I want a walk-in. You need to be able to reach every point inside, high and low, front and back. That is so much easier with a walk-in.

b. If our human size door opens to the run do we need a chicken door?​
I like a chicken door (pop door) as a human door is a lot bigger so, if left open, it will let in more weather. Is that a concern in your coop? Also, you need to fasten any door open so it doesn't slam shut on a chicken in a wind or from something else. That's pop door or human door.
 

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