Hi folk. I'm new. And just started my first coop.

[RunChixRun]

Hi,

We are building a coop with a 7.5' x 12' footprint. The hen house is 7.5' x 4'. The run is 7.5' x 8' and actually extends under the hen house so its true dimension is the full 7.5' x 12'. I'm framing everything out without having purchased the welded wire mesh yet. We live in a very wooded area with lots of predators so I want to make sure I dont do anything in the build stage that jeopardizes the hens. My question is what gauge wire to use and what grid dimension is right? Would a 1.5" x 4" grid of 14 gauge wire be fine, attached to studs every 2'?

Also....if my run does extend under the hen house what is the minimum headroom for the hens to use that space?

Thanks for your advice.

Josh
Norwalk CT

 

[DobieLover]

Hi,

We are building a coop with a 7.5' x 12' footprint. The hen house is 7.5' x 4'. The run is 7.5' x 8' and actually extends under the hen house so its true dimension is the full 7.5' x 12'. I'm framing everything out without having purchased the welded wire mesh yet. We live in a very wooded area with lots of predators so I want to make sure I dont do anything in the build stage that jeopardizes the hens. My question is what gauge wire to use and what grid dimension is right? Would a 1.5" x 4" grid of 14 gauge wire be fine, attached to studs every 2'?

Also....if my run does extend under the hen house what is the minimum headroom for the hens to use that space?

Thanks for your advice.

Josh
Norwalk CT
View attachment 2039301

Hi, Josh, and welcome to BYC.
How many chickens do you intend to house?
If you really want to make it secure, I'd put a solid roof on the run and enclose everything using 1/2" hardware cloth with an 18 to 24" predator apron around the works.
You will want at least 24" under the coop.
Your design is good for no more than 9 birds but personally, I'd limit it to 8.
That being the case, you really only need 2 nest boxes.
How are you running the roost(s)?

 

[Ridgerunner]

Hi, welcome to the forum. Glad you joined.

My question is what gauge wire to use and what grid dimension is right? Would a 1.5" x 4" grid of 14 gauge wire be fine, attached to studs every 2'?

Unfortunately there is no perfect wire for each and every one of us and against each and every predator. The smaller the mesh the smaller the critter it will keep out but that generally means a lighter gauge. The lighter the gauge the more likely a larger predator can tear it. The heavier the gauge the more it tends to cost. There are trade-offs involved. If it is not covered many critters can climb or fly in. Some critters can dig under.

Your 1.5 x 4 wire mesh should keep out many problem critters, dogs, foxes, bobcats, possum, raccoon, skunk, things like that. A bear or mountain lion could probably demolish it if it wants to. Snakes, mice, rats, many songbirds, and some weasels could get in through that opening. How you attach it makes a difference too. They don't have to tear it if they can just pull it off.

My philosophy is to keep them in a predator resistant run during the day and in a predator proof coop at night. Contrary to popular myth, practically any predator will hunt during daylight. But night is generally when your chickens are most vulnerable. During the day human activity tends to keep them more cautious. Some people like to have as close to a predator proof run as they can. You might try using your 1.5 x 4 and lining it with a really small mesh wire. That's pretty common.

Also....if my run does extend under the hen house what is the minimum headroom for the hens to use that space?

It's not a case of the hens using that space, it's a matter of how much room do you need to reach under there? Do you enjoy crawling in chicken poop? Think about it. We do a lot of things with the chickens in mind. In my opinion I'm more important than the chickens. If it is convenient for me to take care of them I'll do a better job of taking care of them.

You are in Connecticut, thanks for mentioning that. It can come in handy for many reasons. And it looks like it's part of your signature. Good, it will always be available.

You are going to see snow and cold weather in winter. If you build your run in a way that snow and a cold wind at ground level are blocked out, it will be available all year around. I'm an advocate of providing more room rather than less, you can follow the link in my signature to see why. If your run is available year around I could easily see 8 or maybe a couple more hens in there. But if it is not going to be available in winter 6 hens may be pushing it.

 

[Ladies-Eight]

Hi,

We are building a coop with a 7.5' x 12' footprint. The hen house is 7.5' x 4'. The run is 7.5' x 8' and actually extends under the hen house so its true dimension is the full 7.5' x 12'. I'm framing everything out without having purchased the welded wire mesh yet. We live in a very wooded area with lots of predators so I want to make sure I dont do anything in the build stage that jeopardizes the hens. My question is what gauge wire to use and what grid dimension is right? Would a 1.5" x 4" grid of 14 gauge wire be fine, attached to studs every 2'?

Also....if my run does extend under the hen house what is the minimum headroom for the hens to use that space?

Thanks for your advice.

Josh
Norwalk CT
View attachment 2039301

Nice to have you aboard. Enjoy being a part of the flock!

 

[CapricornFarm]

Build it big, it's easier to do it now than add on later! Whatever wire you use, do not use chicken wire! Predators can rip right through it. I always make a skirt around the run with hardware cloth, a foot up the side, and a foot out over the ground.
Good luck!

 

[JThw8]

Similar design and layout to mine but Im at 6.6x12 and only planning on 4 chickens. Mine is also being set up as a tractor so some compromises were made for weight (no full roof over the run) Looks like you are off to a good start!

 

[IamRainey]

You're smart to be thinking this through thoroughly now.

1/2" hardware cloth should do you well. I don't know what gauge we used but you're right that it comes in different gauges. Get the strongest you can. Then make sure you either dig it in 12"-18" or spread it out in an apron 12" beyond your actual enclosure so that you're safe from digging predators.

I join someone above in recommending a solid roof with a generous overhang. It will give your flock protection from flying and climbing predators and weather as well.

Having your coop over the run is a good way to maximize space. I don't think it matters so very much how high the space in the run under the coop is. Your convenience because you'll be climbing up over it to get into the coop for cleaning and you'll be leaning down to get the random egg or hen under it as well. I've found that a child-size rake is useful there too. It's handy if it's high enough that you can hang a feeder and/or waterer.

Have you considered the door? A full size one you can step through standing up is smart. A double door that you can open from the top only is useful but not essential. What is essential is having double latches on ALL the openings. I like a latch that will take a carabiner clip. Raccoons can't negotiate them. Some folks use a hook and eye latch that has a spring loaded horizontal bar that closes when the hook's secured. Just make sure whatever you choose will be raccoon safe. They're devious!

How about your nesting boxes? Will they be inside the coop? Extending outside? Boxes the extend outside provide more room inside the coop and can be convenient for collecting eggs. They have the option of a roof that lifts up or a side that drops down. If you go for dropped side you'll need a horizontal dam to keep the bedding inside when it's open.

Make sure your coop has lots of ventilation. Make sure the openings are secured with hardware cloth by screws and washers.

Good luck! Enjoy your birds! Come back and show us what you did.

Adding a few more thoughts:

You'll want to think about feed and supply storage. I doesn't need to be part of your coop & run structure but it will convenient if it's nearby. Whatever it is, it will also need to be secure. You don't want to be feeding mice and squirrels and larger pests.

And give some thought to electricity. One day you may want to be hatching and brooding out there. And I would imagine in CT you'll be needing to keep water from freezing for part of the year. I'm in SoCal and need to run fans for another part of the year. And if winter is long and dark you could want supplemental lighting to keep egg production up so you might as well think about how to incorporate it from the beginning.

Have you considered where you will be siting your coop? Lots of shade will keep your flock more comfortable not only physically but psychologically as well. If there's a spot near water that will save you carrying heavy waterers back and forth. If you'll have a rooster as much distance from neighbors and your own bedroom windows as possible will be a good idea. Those guys are up early! ...particularly if you set up those supplemental lights.

 

[Rden]

Hi josh-

I am in Wallingford CT and just starting out. How did your coop come out? I’m researching ow to see what I want to do for a coop and I believe that mine will be much like yours.

 

[RunChixRun]

Hi, Josh, and welcome to BYC.
How many chickens do you intend to house?
If you really want to make it secure, I'd put a solid roof on the run and enclose everything using 1/2" hardware cloth with an 18 to 24" predator apron around the works.
You will want at least 24" under the coop.
Your design is good for no more than 9 birds but personally, I'd limit it to 8.
That being the case, you really only need 2 nest boxes.
How are you running the roost(s)?

Hi,

We are building a coop with a 7.5' x 12' footprint. The hen house is 7.5' x 4'. The run is 7.5' x 8' and actually extends under the hen house so its true dimension is the full 7.5' x 12'. I'm framing everything out without having purchased the welded wire mesh yet. We live in a very wooded area with lots of predators so I want to make sure I dont do anything in the build stage that jeopardizes the hens. My question is what gauge wire to use and what grid dimension is right? Would a 1.5" x 4" grid of 14 gauge wire be fine, attached to studs every 2'?

Also....if my run does extend under the hen house what is the minimum headroom for the hens to use that space?

Thanks for your advice.

Josh
Norwalk CT
View attachment 2039301

Hi. Thanks for your reply. I've wanted to reach back to everybody but we have feverish been building this coop. We just got our hens yesterday and now I have a moment to focus on other things besides it. I don't know if this reply goes to everybody so I apologize if I post it numerous times to each person. Also, I'd like to show the process so will figure out how to post images for all to see. It's not complete yet but we're close. Thanks again.

 

[RunChixRun]

Hi, welcome to the forum. Glad you joined.

My question is what gauge wire to use and what grid dimension is right? Would a 1.5" x 4" grid of 14 gauge wire be fine, attached to studs every 2'?

Unfortunately there is no perfect wire for each and every one of us and against each and every predator. The smaller the mesh the smaller the critter it will keep out but that generally means a lighter gauge. The lighter the gauge the more likely a larger predator can tear it. The heavier the gauge the more it tends to cost. There are trade-offs involved. If it is not covered many critters can climb or fly in. Some critters can dig under.

Your 1.5 x 4 wire mesh should keep out many problem critters, dogs, foxes, bobcats, possum, raccoon, skunk, things like that. A bear or mountain lion could probably demolish it if it wants to. Snakes, mice, rats, many songbirds, and some weasels could get in through that opening. How you attach it makes a difference too. They don't have to tear it if they can just pull it off.

My philosophy is to keep them in a predator resistant run during the day and in a predator proof coop at night. Contrary to popular myth, practically any predator will hunt during daylight. But night is generally when your chickens are most vulnerable. During the day human activity tends to keep them more cautious. Some people like to have as close to a predator proof run as they can. You might try using your 1.5 x 4 and lining it with a really small mesh wire. That's pretty common.

Also....if my run does extend under the hen house what is the minimum headroom for the hens to use that space?

It's not a case of the hens using that space, it's a matter of how much room do you need to reach under there? Do you enjoy crawling in chicken poop? Think about it. We do a lot of things with the chickens in mind. In my opinion I'm more important than the chickens. If it is convenient for me to take care of them I'll do a better job of taking care of them.

You are in Connecticut, thanks for mentioning that. It can come in handy for many reasons. And it looks like it's part of your signature. Good, it will always be available.

You are going to see snow and cold weather in winter. If you build your run in a way that snow and a cold wind at ground level are blocked out, it will be available all year around. I'm an advocate of providing more room rather than less, you can follow the link in my signature to see why. If your run is available year around I could easily see 8 or maybe a couple more hens in there. But if it is not going to be available in winter 6 hens may be pushing it.

Hi. Thanks for your reply. I've wanted to reach back to everybody but we have feverish been building this coop. We just got our hens yesterday and now I have a moment to focus on other things besides it. I don't know if this reply goes to everybody so I apologize if I post it numerous times to each person. Also, I'd like to show the process so will figure out how to post images for all to see. It's not complete yet but we're close. Thanks again.