Hoop House/Coop

Those of you that used PVC pipe, was it necessary to heat the PVC to bend in such a large arc? I already have a run made from 2x4 welded wire and a PVC frame. I used electrical PCV as it is UV resistant. I used the 90 degree bends where the sides meet the top. The bends are a gentle curve about a foot long rather than the sharp ones for regular PVC.. The top is sagging in the middle slightly and I can't put a tarp on the roof as it just catches water. I want to try to reuse what I have before I go and buy TSC stock panels and completely rebuild it. I built the Purina coop a few years ago but it was so large for my four chickens (all I'm allowed) I am shrinking it down to 30d x 48w x 30/36h from the 4 foot cube.. I'll post some pics of it when I'm done.
 
Ron, I don't have any input for you. Have you tried posting your own thread with some photos? That might help. For the sagging, maybe you can put in some center support beams? If we had gone any wider than 8ft with our cattle panels, I'm pretty sure sagging would have been a problem too, and those panels are tough!
 
make sure to have a big run as my coop doesn't and when they run around the yard to much they scratch up alot of mulch
 
I'm already planning more coops in my head. I want to see this first one get finished first though
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make sure to have a big run as my coop doesn't and when they run around the yard to much they scratch up alot of mulch

So far, we only have 4 birds. I want about 4 more for this coop here (8x16 coop/run combo) and then I think I want two more similarly sized coops. I want to get a few silkies for hatching some eggs and try my hand at a brabanter flock. The extra coop could be for some meat birds. Make the hubs take care of those ones ;) I'm also trying to put some money back to get the road fenced off as well as fencing along the property boarder on one side. I have woods on the other 2 sides. I don't expect the woods to contain them, but the fencing would make me feel better about supervised free range.
 
We have woods behind our hose but the hens dont venture into. they seem to prefer the open ground.
 
The answer is no you don't have to heat the PVC to bend it in that big of an arc. The electrical conduit is in 6 ft sections. At 8 ft wide 3 sections make a tunnel 7 ft 6 in tall. Had to cut a foot out of all the ones touching the base and it's still 6ft 6 in. There is a telephone line runs above it that would touch the top if I didn't. Got the tarp on and it sheds water now. Added some corner braces to stop it raking when moving it from some lumber in my shed. Still need to add a door and finish the front. Going to do a little more modification to the coop to get things just right. Top is too wide and the legs are a little too long to fit nicely in the run. Best part is other than the original investment I have spent $0. Probably going to have to spend a little getting the door squared away. Here's a pic of it so far.
 
I'm going to take a page out of Blooie's book and do the t-posts next time to get set up. Also, I was doing some reading on how others have had a decent experience burying plywood 18" deep instead of doing a hardware cloth apron around the coop, so I may try that as well. I'll do this next one at 6ft wide so I can actually walk through it without bumping my head LOL. I figure I can get a 12ft board and have the big box store cut it for me. I'll use those pieces to help square up the plywood and just piece together from there
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