Anyone have dwarf goats?

[noelgeorgia]

I agree with @Pampered chicken girl above - just get females and find someone with a buck you can breed them with, or get AI done by the vet. Read my post on this thread - it's full of reasons a billy or buck is a huge challenge to deal with. If you just want to add to the herd but not more females, get a wether goat or two (castrated males). Don't put two bucks together, ever.

Your post was super helpful! Definitely females only!

 

[lomine]

Reading through this older thread since we're thinking about getting a couple of NDs goats. I read the males can ruin the milk from the females because they pee all over them self often and it will taint the flavor of the milk. I was told to keep them separate unless it's mating time. Since I think they're social, should I get a couple males and a couple of females or just get females and find someone to breed her with locally?

I have a herd of NDs. ND bucks should not be kept with the does as they are year-round breeders and will just keep breeding the does over and over, even when too young or if they just kidded. My bucks are kept separate from the does by a wire fence. They have never tainted the milk. "Goaty" milk is a result of bad handling (i.e. not properly washing udder/storing milk/etc), mineral deficiency, poor diet, and in some cases genetics.

If you are asking about milk, I'm assuming you plan to have them for that purpose. There are pros and cons to keeping your own bucks. I would say that if you only plan to keep two does for milk, it probably isn't worth it to keep two bucks or a buck and wether. However, I would suggest you do some research on studs available in your area. Number one thing is make sure the buck and any does he is allowed to breed are tested. You don't want to expose your does to diseases. You want to make sure you are using a buck with good confirmation and from good milk lines, even if you don't plan to register your goats/their kids. If you ever keep a doe kid you'll want it to have the best chance at good confirmation and milk supply. Confirmation isn't just for show goats. The confirmation of goats is meant to "build" a goat with good health and longevity. For example, if a doe has poor udder attachment it could mean that she starts to drag her udder after a few years, or her udder will sway and cause her discomfort. It will also help you to sell kids. Many buyers want to know that the breeder cares about these things rather than just breeding any random pair. It's good to try to always breed better, meaning you want your kids to be better than your dam/buck.

On a similar note, I suggest you take the time to pick the right first goats. Get the best ones you can afford. This doesn't necessarily mean you need to buy an expensive kid from show lines. Just take some time beforehand looking at pictures and learn what makes a "good" goat. I would especially try to learn what a good udder looks like. You may not be able to see all the little bits, but you should learn what good attachments and teat placement looks like. Take the time to look at the udders of the dams for any kids you are considering.

 

[noelgeorgia]

I have a herd of NDs. ND bucks should not be kept with the does as they are year-round breeders and will just keep breeding the does over and over, even when too young or if they just kidded. My bucks are kept separate from the does by a wire fence. They have never tainted the milk. "Goaty" milk is a result of bad handling (i.e. not properly washing udder/storing milk/etc), mineral deficiency, poor diet, and in some cases genetics.

If you are asking about milk, I'm assuming you plan to have them for that purpose. There are pros and cons to keeping your own bucks. I would say that if you only plan to keep two does for milk, it probably isn't worth it to keep two bucks or a buck and wether. However, I would suggest you do some research on studs available in your area. Number one thing is make sure the buck and any does he is allowed to breed are tested. You don't want to expose your does to diseases. You want to make sure you are using a buck with good confirmation and from good milk lines, even if you don't plan to register your goats/their kids. If you ever keep a doe kid you'll want it to have the best chance at good confirmation and milk supply. Confirmation isn't just for show goats. The confirmation of goats is meant to "build" a goat with good health and longevity. For example, if a doe has poor udder attachment it could mean that she starts to drag her udder after a few years, or her udder will sway and cause her discomfort. It will also help you to sell kids. Many buyers want to know that the breeder cares about these things rather than just breeding any random pair. It's good to try to always breed better, meaning you want your kids to be better than your dam/buck.

On a similar note, I suggest you take the time to pick the right first goats. Get the best ones you can afford. This doesn't necessarily mean you need to buy an expensive kid from show lines. Just take some time beforehand looking at pictures and learn what makes a "good" goat. I would especially try to learn what a good udder looks like. You may not be able to see all the little bits, but you should learn what good attachments and teat placement looks like. Take the time to look at the udders of the dams for any kids you are considering.

Thank you for all of this great detailed information. I'm saving it so I can make sure I check all the boxes when we choose our goats. Did not realize there was so much to picking a good goat! We do want them for milking and I do not want any bucks right now so I'm looking into local options, which may be the person we buy the does from.

 

[lomine]

Thank you for all of this great detailed information. I'm saving it so I can make sure I check all the boxes when we choose our goats. Did not realize there was so much to picking a good goat! We do want them for milking and I do not want any bucks right now so I'm looking into local options, which may be the person we buy the does from.

These are things I learned after I got my first few goats. I lucked out and got decent starter does. I'm no expert and couldn't judge any goats, but I know how to see big faults and some of the confirmation aspects that are important to me. I don't show or do any linear testing, my goats are strictly for my own milk use. I learned more about the breed so I could breed better.

I borrowed a buck for my first breeding, and I think that was a good choice. I took my time researching and learning before I got my first bucks. I ended up traveling out of state but for me it was worth it to get some bucks from a very well rewarded show herd with good milking.

 

[noelgeorgia]

These are things I learned after I got my first few goats. I lucked out and got decent starter does. I'm no expert and couldn't judge any goats, but I know how to see big faults and some of the confirmation aspects that are important to me. I don't show or do any linear testing, my goats are strictly for my own milk use. I learned more about the breed so I could breed better.

I borrowed a buck for my first breeding, and I think that was a good choice. I took my time researching and learning before I got my first bucks. I ended up traveling out of state but for me it was worth it to get some bucks from a very well rewarded show herd with good milking.

Thank you for saving us from learning lessons the hard way. I know we will learn some anyway, but it's good to have these tips when we're just starting out.

 

[noelgeorgia]

What are the best milk replacer options? The standard brands I see have a lot of weird ingredients. Should I get goat milk powder and make our own or look for a place that sells raw goat or cow's milk?

 

[lomine]

What are the best milk replacer options? The standard brands I see have a lot of weird ingredients. Should I get goat milk powder and make our own or look for a place that sells raw goat or cow's milk?

Don't use replacer. I'd be a bit careful about buying raw milk from others. Make sure their herds are tested as things can be transmitted through milk. Whole cows milk from the store is a good option.

 

[my spoiled chickens]

We used to raise pygmy goats we now have NDGs but they can go in forest pens overgrowth pens they are practically lawnmowers

 

[wdwdonald]

I have four Norweign Dwarf Goats and am interested in rehoming the two older ones (Two years old). Would consider trade for some Good Laying Hens. I Live in Welcome, Maryland, 20693. Let me know if interested.