@Shadrach
I agree that fastening them in is not ideal but it solves the problem of them leaving the new nest site for a broody break and then returning to the old nest site when the owner is not present and the eggs getting cold. At this time of year, the eggs getting cold can be a significant problem whereas a few hours in summer will not make a significant difference. You also get the situation where another hen climbs onto the nest to lay an egg whilst the broody is off having a comfort break and when the broody returns, she cannot get back onto her nest because of he other hen and sometimes she will climb into an adjacent nest to wait and then go into her broody trance and not be aware that the other hen has left and again the eggs end up getting cold unless the owner checks regularly.
My cupboard is large enough for the broody to get up and have food and drink and poop if necessary, but the act of opening the door usually triggers her to get up and have a comfort break. I normally do this when I let the other hens out so that she goes and feeds with them and remains part of the flock and obviously has access to dust bathing facilities whilst I do my mucking out routine and then I can supervise her back onto the nest.
That is interesting that the eggs having periodic exposure to sunlight is thought to have a health benefit for the developing chicks. I will bear that in mind next time I hatch. Even in your room, that nest box is in a shady spot. I find that when you move a broody she is much more likely to settle onto the new nest after you move her, if it is dark. I guess that is because she cannot see that it is not her chosen nest site.
I agree that the chicks having exposure to their environment and the flock from day one is very important for their immune system and socialisation.
It is also important to have a plan for the resulting cockerels before you hatch. They are never a problem until one day at about 15 weeks when their hormones kick in and they start harassing the hens and pullets. At this time of year I would expect fertility to be less than optimal, so setting half a dozen may not yield many chicks. I also think a larger clutch at this time of year holds it's warmth better than just a few eggs for when she takes a broody break and if she is a large/standard fowl hen then giving her 10 bantam eggs is not a lot.
I agree that fastening them in is not ideal but it solves the problem of them leaving the new nest site for a broody break and then returning to the old nest site when the owner is not present and the eggs getting cold. At this time of year, the eggs getting cold can be a significant problem whereas a few hours in summer will not make a significant difference. You also get the situation where another hen climbs onto the nest to lay an egg whilst the broody is off having a comfort break and when the broody returns, she cannot get back onto her nest because of he other hen and sometimes she will climb into an adjacent nest to wait and then go into her broody trance and not be aware that the other hen has left and again the eggs end up getting cold unless the owner checks regularly.
My cupboard is large enough for the broody to get up and have food and drink and poop if necessary, but the act of opening the door usually triggers her to get up and have a comfort break. I normally do this when I let the other hens out so that she goes and feeds with them and remains part of the flock and obviously has access to dust bathing facilities whilst I do my mucking out routine and then I can supervise her back onto the nest.
That is interesting that the eggs having periodic exposure to sunlight is thought to have a health benefit for the developing chicks. I will bear that in mind next time I hatch. Even in your room, that nest box is in a shady spot. I find that when you move a broody she is much more likely to settle onto the new nest after you move her, if it is dark. I guess that is because she cannot see that it is not her chosen nest site.
I agree that the chicks having exposure to their environment and the flock from day one is very important for their immune system and socialisation.
It is also important to have a plan for the resulting cockerels before you hatch. They are never a problem until one day at about 15 weeks when their hormones kick in and they start harassing the hens and pullets. At this time of year I would expect fertility to be less than optimal, so setting half a dozen may not yield many chicks. I also think a larger clutch at this time of year holds it's warmth better than just a few eggs for when she takes a broody break and if she is a large/standard fowl hen then giving her 10 bantam eggs is not a lot.
