Farming and Homesteading Heritage Poultry

[Beekissed]

He's just barely into his 5th month. He's been ranging and living primarily on foraged food all those months, so he's not as bulky as others of his breed and age, but I'll post back on him when he fills out a bit.

 

[LeslieDJoyce]

At a point, I like to house the cockerels separately. I run what I can with some pullets (or hens), but what I cannot is housed individually. One always seams to exclude the other from the feeder etc. While housed individually, I make sure the pullets (or hens) have access to these pens. The males being able to see the females, and interact with them (even if it is through wire) keeps them mentally fit. I like to keep them fit. There is also a rotation where they get let out to range. That is not every day, but at least once per week. I might even rotate one or two among some pullets.

All that to say that I do separate them at a point, but I do put some effort into keeping them physically and mentally sharp. The old cockers were excellent at managing their surplus of stags and cocks. They did emphasize keeping them fit, both mentally and physically.

I do not like bachelor pads for extended periods. Only while they are growing.

I am not trying to suggest anything. I am only trying to share a perspective.

What size are your cockerel cages?

My cockerels seem to get along well in a cockerel colony coop/run grow out situation (with dwindling numbers while obvious culls are removed) right up to breeding season early next spring. Then I think I need to segregate and confine the breeders so they don't spend too much energy competing for the females ... and perhaps confining them a little sooner for more security if I'm feeling paranoid.

Looking at the cattle panels I like to use, they are like 50" wide and I can make an 8' wide arc and still fit inside reasonably well to do chores, for a cage with about 33 sq. ft. That would give two birds like 16 square feet each. If I double it by using 2 panels, I could use it to breed a trio, and have space for a nest box and water and feeder without feeling too bad about having them locked up?

I could possibly back a couple of these up onto the existing cockerel colony run, and then rotate their access to that so they can still stretch their legs and stuff. The other end of the cages would provide a good view to the courtyard chores area, other coops, and free-range flock.

 

[Fentress]

At a point, I like to house the cockerels separately. I run what I can with some pullets (or hens), but what I cannot is housed individually. One always seams to exclude the other from the feeder etc. While housed individually, I make sure the pullets (or hens) have access to these pens. The males being able to see the females, and interact with them (even if it is through wire) keeps them mentally fit. I like to keep them fit. There is also a rotation where they get let out to range. That is not every day, but at least once per week. I might even rotate one or two among some pullets.

All that to say that I do separate them at a point, but I do put some effort into keeping them physically and mentally sharp. The old cockers were excellent at managing their surplus of stags and cocks. They did emphasize keeping them fit, both mentally and physically.

I do not like bachelor pads for extended periods. Only while they are growing.

I am not trying to suggest anything. I am only trying to share a perspective.

I have about 7,500 square feet of pasture behind the e-net and around 40 birds of various ages. I have two feeders and two waters. I have never observed much stress at the feeders, whereby females get excluded to any noticeable degree. When the K's get older there is a lot of chasing and then it is time to cull if that has not already been done. However, I can think of other good reasons to separate the K's. It would be nice to have a large group together to help facilitate evaluation and to process for roasters when the time comes. I find it interesting, that when they reach a certain age they need to see the females in order to maintain mental health.

 

[gjensen]

What size are your cockerel cages?

My cockerels seem to get along well in a cockerel colony coop/run grow out situation (with dwindling numbers while obvious culls are removed) right up to breeding season early next spring. Then I think I need to segregate and confine the breeders so they don't spend too much energy competing for the females ... and perhaps confining them a little sooner for more security if I'm feeling paranoid.

Looking at the cattle panels I like to use, they are like 50" wide and I can make an 8' wide arc and still fit inside reasonably well to do chores, for a cage with about 33 sq. ft. That would give two birds like 16 square feet each. If I double it by using 2 panels, I could use it to breed a trio, and have space for a nest box and water and feeder without feeling too bad about having them locked up?

I could possibly back a couple of these up onto the existing cockerel colony run, and then rotate their access to that so they can still stretch their legs and stuff. The other end of the cages would provide a good view to the courtyard chores area, other coops, and free-range flock.

54" (or 60") x 96" is a good size if the pens are mobile. I like them to have an open and enclosed half. A roost in the enclosed half. After he is patterned to roost there, I like to give him a small bucket to perch on in the open half. This allows him to elevate himself and crow etc. If pullets graze around these pens and can approach these pens, these males will stay fresh. That they can see other males and compete keeps them mentally sharp to. Whatever method you use, single birds need to be able to interact. They need the stimulus.

I have come to like a gable roof on these, leaving the gable ends open for ventilating the enclosed half. I also like a gap at the bottom of some sort on this have for more bottom ventilation. This gives the bird a ventilated shady spot in the summer, and a place to get out of the weather in the winter.

A single sheet of plastic on the eastern exposed half in the front gives them a place to sunbathe on the cold sunny winter days. This is also a good place to incorporate a black water dish. This will melt the thin ice of a light freeze.

I have some stationary pens that are 5'x'5', but I do wish that I had made them 6' x 6'. I also use them as breeding pens for pairs and trios. I had pairs in mind when I built them, but I also use them for trios. My solution is to add a roost to the back of this row of pens, and remove the existing roost. This will provide more floor space, and essentially will make the pens 7' x 5'. I do not use these for conditioning cockerels. I want them on grass. This is for cock birds, pairs, and trios.

I see some top breeders using open 6' x 6' mobile pens on grass as conditioning pens.

There are any number of methods. You will find your own rhythm. You are pretty sharp.

 

[gjensen]

I have about 7,500 square feet of pasture behind the e-net and around 40 birds of various ages. I have two feeders and two waters. I have never observed much stress at the feeders, whereby females get excluded to any noticeable degree. When the K's get older there is a lot of chasing and then it is time to cull if that has not already been done. However, I can think of other good reasons to separate the K's. It would be nice to have a large group together to help facilitate evaluation and to process for roasters when the time comes. I find it interesting, that when they reach a certain age they need to see the females in order to maintain mental health.

If you made comparisons, you would find that they all grow out better when the pullets and cockerels were separated. Separating age groups etc.

The age to separate cockerels is later in life, and after the cull. This is a "string" of cockerels that might be shown, shared with others, or set aside for breeding. These would no longer be considered growing birds. These are mature birds that would be actively competing in the more active strains and breeds.

It is not that they need to see the females as much as they need to see each other. Pullets will approach the pens and "flirt" or "tease". Watch these single birds interact and you will see what I am trying to communicate. If they wire is small enough, other males approaching the pens are stimulating to. What we do not want is single males isolated. These will often lose weight and become lethargic. Some tolerate these conditions better than others. More active birds do not tolerate isolation well and will decline fast. They will survive, but not thrive. If you notice a gamecock breeder's yard has a string of birds on cords, a place where they can perch, and they can see each other. Sunshine, fresh greens, fresh air, clean water, and interaction with other birds.

With jungle fowl "bachelor" groups roam the perimeter, and may venture to the perimeter of other flocks. These small groups of young sexually mature males do well together, but it is not without competition. They have an unlimited of space though, and closely confined, you will find a different dynamic. These groups are temporary groups. Eventually one replaces a cock, and predators get a meal or two etc.

 

[Fentress]

That is helpful. Thanks. I may have made a mistake with a male without that insight. I like the gamecock example, not that that is what I would do, but it illustrates the principle well.

 

[gjensen]

That is helpful. Thanks. I may have made a mistake with a male without that insight. I like the gamecock example, not that that is what I would do, but it illustrates the principle well.

That is all it is. A perspective.

 

[Beekissed]

Recently butchered out the old rooster and the extra young cockerels(5 mo. old), a total of 10 large fowl White Rock males. The group of young cockerels have been existing almost entirely on free range, as the hens and the older rooster didn't often let them in the coop during feeding time. I wouldn't see these boys all day long until roosting time, as they would be foraging out on the edge of the meadow and living in the honeysuckle thicket.

I was surprised to find these cockerels just rolling in deep, yellow fat, both inside and out. Not really typical for free ranged roosters, especially ones that young...usually they are more rangy and don't usually store much fat. Usually I see that amount of fat when I butcher out old hens, even those living almost entirely on free range. Actually, when I come to think about it, the fattest birds I've ever butchered were those done in October, when they've been living almost entirely on free range, foraged feeds for a couple of months.

I think the forage to be found in the late summer/early fall seasons is calculated to put fat on an animal for the winter months and I always adjust my feed at that time of year to take advantage of that situation. When I had sheep they would get enormously fat on just graze at this time of year and I've heard it was due to tall fescue, which is more nutritious at this time of year.

When I opened up the gizzards on these fat young cockerels they were full of grasses, so it could very well be that they were fattening up on the tall fescue and also the white dutch clover, which is flourishing at this time of year as well.

The rooster, on the other hand, exercised less(poor forager that haunted the feeder) and ate more of the grain based feed offered in the coop, had very little extra fat on his body and around his organs. The jars of canned chicken have a layer of golden fat at the top of each jar, which is going to make for incredibly flavorful soups, stews, casseroles and stir fry. Normally I would prefer an old hen for these kind of preparations due to her excess of fat, but these cockerels have surprised me and delighted me this year.

It could also be the breed. The White Rock breed tends to put on more fat while eating less feed than any breed I've ever raised and that fat seems to be distributed among the meat fibers, giving their meat a peachy, golden pink appearance and a flavor beyond compare. I've raised the WRS side by side with other breeds and they all had the same feed and foraging opportunities, but the WR meat looks and tastes different...has a more unctuous flavor and texture.

Either way, I'm pretty tickled to get 37 qts more of fat, golden chicken in the jar for this winter's cooking and the flavor should be incredible. Will be making soup from a jar of it this week and will get to find out firsthand how good these cockerels taste.

 

[Rod-T]

Recently butchered out the old rooster and the extra young cockerels(5 mo. old), a total of 10 large fowl White Rock males.  The group of young cockerels have been existing almost entirely on free range, as the hens and the older rooster didn't often let them in the coop during feeding time.  I wouldn't see these boys all day long until roosting time, as they would be foraging out on the edge of the meadow and living in the honeysuckle thicket.

I was surprised to find these cockerels just rolling in deep, yellow fat, both inside and out.  Not really typical for free ranged roosters, especially ones that young...usually they are more rangy and don't usually store much fat.  Usually I see that amount of fat when I butcher out old hens, even those living almost entirely on free range.  Actually, when I come to think about it, the fattest birds I've ever butchered were those done in October, when they've been living almost entirely on free range, foraged feeds for a couple of months.

I think the forage to be found in the late summer/early fall seasons is calculated to put fat on an animal for the winter months and I always adjust my feed at that time of year to take advantage of that situation.  When I had sheep they would get enormously fat on just graze at this time of year and I've heard it was due to tall fescue, which is more nutritious at this time of year.

When I opened up the gizzards on these fat young cockerels they were full of grasses, so it could very well be that they were fattening up on the tall fescue and also the white dutch clover, which is flourishing at this time of year as well.

The rooster, on the other hand, exercised less(poor forager that haunted the feeder) and ate more of the grain based feed offered in the coop, had very little extra fat on his body and around his organs.  The jars of canned chicken have a layer of golden fat at the top of each jar, which is going to make for incredibly flavorful soups, stews, casseroles and stir fry.  Normally I would prefer an old hen for these kind of preparations due to her excess of fat, but these cockerels have surprised me and delighted me this year.

It could also be the breed.  The White Rock breed tends to put on more fat while eating less feed than any breed I've ever raised and that fat seems to be distributed among the meat fibers, giving their meat a peachy, golden pink appearance and a flavor beyond compare.  I've raised the WRS side by side with other breeds and they all had the same feed and foraging opportunities, but the WR meat looks and tastes different...has a more unctuous flavor and texture.

Either way, I'm pretty tickled to get 37 qts more of fat, golden chicken in the jar for this winter's cooking and the flavor should be incredible.  Will be making soup from a jar of it this week and will get to find out firsthand how good these cockerels taste. 

So you canned all your chicken? What did the weigh out dressed?

 

[Beekissed]

I always can my chicken nowadays. Learned my lesson on that after raising 54 meaties, placing them all in the freezer and a dericho came through. We were without power for 2 wks and my chicken was parted out to someone with power and a freezer. I got back two Walmart bags of that chicken and not the best parts.

Now I can it all so there's no way I can lose my work, money and time spent. I didn't weigh the birds. If you've butchered enough birds in your life you can heft them and know right away if they are heavy or not, the approx. wt.....if I had to venture a guess on the dress weights of the cockerels, I'd say they went 5-6 lbs, not including organs or skin. Not bad when you consider they didn't cost much, if anything...maybe a few bucks total, for me to raise to butcher size due to their free range lifestyle.

I'm pretty accurate on my guess weights.

The other day I was teaching some newbies how to butcher and cut up their birds and the lady asked me how much meat was in the bag she was holding. I lifted it and told her around 10 lbs. She went to weigh it and it was exactly 10 lbs. You do this long enough you get the general idea of how heavy a bird is.

LOVED how this year's breeding project went...all hatched by broodies, raised out on pasture since 2 wks and I never had to do much with them at all except place bands on those from my best breeders to keep track of their outcome. Lots of meat, a goodly number(8) of good looking pullets as replacement layers and a good replacement cockerel for my new breeder/flock master. No pullets laying as of yet, so only 4 mature hens capable of laying at any given time, but have recorded 808 eggs laid in 231 days, even with broody times and raising of young...some eggs were laid out in the bush as happens with a free range flock, so one cannot account for those. Two hens killed previously in the year for non laying, so it equals 40 qts. of tightly packed meat as the total flock yield for the year thus far.

For such a small flock, I'm quite pleased.