fuzzi's Chicken Journal

[fuzzi]

Hope you get those free pallets to work with. That should really cut down on the costs.

Also, depending on your predators, I got by with using relatively inexpensive 2X4 wire fencing for my "predator resistant" chicken run. It would cost a fortune to make a "predator proof" run with hardware cloth. And I protect my girls from hawks and eagles with inexpensive bird netting stretched across the top of my run fencing.

I don't let my chickens free range. They would not last long where I live. But I collect all my grass clippings, leaves, and anything else organic and put it into the run. I essentially bring the free range to them. But they are safe and in 3+ years I have not lost a chicken to predation. At night I lock them in a Fort Knox coop.

Since you are dealing with limited supplies of materials and/or a limited budget, you might want to look at coop designs that are more modular in build and add on later when you have the material or financial resources. It's easy to add on to the chicken run. I don't have any modular chicken coop designs in mind, but they must exist somewhere.

Best of luck.

That's a thought...make one (non door) side of the coop from a piece of plywood so I can remove it for an addition later on.

 

[gtaus]

The dh and I knocked down a small shed about four years ago. The current one in bad shape was built more substantially, will be harder to dismantle. I would like to salvage what I can.

I have been able to reclaim lots of lumber over the years. One of the fastest methods is using a reciprocating saw with a demolition blade to cut through all those nails. If you don't have to worry about partial nails remaining in the lumber, the recip saw with demo blade works pretty well. If you need your reclaimed wood nail free, then it's back to a long crow bar, a heavy hammer, and a good dose of armstrong effort.

I bought a ~$20 metal hand scanner to run over my reclaimed wood to locate any hidden nails or metal before I run the boards through my saws. Lots of times I can use a board with metal in it, just don't want to cut the metal with a good saw blade and create an unsafe situation. A piece of chalk to mark any hidden nails helps me know where not to cut a board.

I also bought a 7-1/4 inch demolition saw blade for my circular saw. That is supposed to safely cut through any hidden nails in case you get surprised.

It's only $12.00 at Harbor Freight for their 7-1/4 in., 24T Demolition Miter and Circular Saw Blade. I bought it after watching a YouTube video where they compared this blade to much more expensive blades. This HF saw blade came out very good in that head-to-head comparison. If I get to a point where I need to salvage some lumber with possible nails in it, I use this demo blade.

Anyways, an inexpensive blade might be safe enough for you to reclaim more expensive wood that you might not otherwise consider using. Wood is expensive and I try to reclaim as much as possible.

 

[3KillerBs]

I bought a ~$20 metal hand scanner to run over my reclaimed wood to locate any hidden nails or metal before I run the boards through my saws. Lots of times I can use a board with metal in it, just don't want to cut the metal with a good saw blade and create an unsafe situation. A piece of chalk to mark any hidden nails helps me know where not to cut a board.

I also bought a 7-1/4 inch demolition saw blade for my circular saw. That is supposed to safely cut through any hidden nails in case you get surprised.

It's only $12.00 at Harbor Freight for their 7-1/4 in., 24T Demolition Miter and Circular Saw Blade. I bought it after watching a YouTube video where they compared this blade to much more expensive blades. This HF saw blade came out very good in that head-to-head comparison. If I get to a point where I need to salvage some lumber with possible nails in it, I use this demo blade.

This is great info!

 

[FunClucks]

That's a thought...make one (non door) side of the coop from a piece of plywood so I can remove it for an addition later on.

I looked at your sketched drawing and I would encourage you to make the sides removable, and consider making your coop three sided (kinda like a covered lean-to). I worry that you don't have enough ventilation for your climate. Coop ventilation rule of thumb in hot climates is 3 sq feet per chicken above the heads of the chicken, and more if possible. For instance, in the blazing heat of summer in north alabama (101F temps, 50-60%+ humidity), I needed every bit of through breeze and cross breeze I could get into my greenhouse hoop coop. That's why I put the flaps out at an angle instead of laying them up against the sides of the hardware cloth - they actually caught more breeze that way and made a few degrees difference in the coop.

@3KillerBs has a few great articles on coop ventilation
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-climate-chicken-housing-and-care.77263/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

If you construct your coop as basically a hardware cloth box with optional sides of plywood, that would keep your chickens safe and also assure they have sufficient ventilation when needed.

Happy planning!!!

 

[fuzzi]

I looked at your sketched drawing and I would encourage you to make the sides removable, and consider making your coop three sided (kinda like a covered lean-to). I worry that you don't have enough ventilation for your climate. Coop ventilation rule of thumb in hot climates is 3 sq feet per chicken above the heads of the chicken, and more if possible. For instance, in the blazing heat of summer in north alabama (101F temps, 50-60%+ humidity), I needed every bit of through breeze and cross breeze I could get into my greenhouse hoop coop. That's why I put the flaps out at an angle instead of laying them up against the sides of the hardware cloth - they actually caught more breeze that way and made a few degrees difference in the coop.

@3KillerBs has a few great articles on coop ventilation
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-climate-chicken-housing-and-care.77263/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

If you construct your coop as basically a hardware cloth box with optional sides of plywood, that would keep your chickens safe and also assure they have sufficient ventilation when needed.

Happy planning!!!

Thanks for the suggestions. I have read the ventilation articles by @3KillerBs and others, and your post reminded me that more screening is best. I was going to place the coop against the big shed, but probably won't now.



Are there removable attachment options beside wood screws that you'd recommend?

I have been able to reclaim lots of lumber over the years. One of the fastest methods is using a reciprocating saw with a demolition blade to cut through all those nails. If you don't have to worry about partial nails remaining in the lumber, the recip saw with demo blade works pretty well. If you need your reclaimed wood nail free, then it's back to a long crow bar, a heavy hammer, and a good dose of armstrong effort.

I bought a ~$20 metal hand scanner to run over my reclaimed wood to locate any hidden nails or metal before I run the boards through my saws. Lots of times I can use a board with metal in it, just don't want to cut the metal with a good saw blade and create an unsafe situation. A piece of chalk to mark any hidden nails helps me know where not to cut a board.

I also bought a 7-1/4 inch demolition saw blade for my circular saw. That is supposed to safely cut through any hidden nails in case you get surprised.

It's only $12.00 at Harbor Freight for their 7-1/4 in., 24T Demolition Miter and Circular Saw Blade. I bought it after watching a YouTube video where they compared this blade to much more expensive blades. This HF saw blade came out very good in that head-to-head comparison. If I get to a point where I need to salvage some lumber with possible nails in it, I use this demo blade.

Anyways, an inexpensive blade might be safe enough for you to reclaim more expensive wood that you might not otherwise consider using. Wood is expensive and I try to reclaim as much as possible.

Wow, thanks! We have a Harbor Freight in town and I have a circular saw, too.

This is great info!

Agreed!

Question to All:
What do you think is the best height option for HWC, 24", 36", or 48"? I'm trying to avoid as much cutting as possible as I have arthritis in my cutting hand/thumb. I have four 24" rolls (partial) with 1/2"x1/2" openings that I bought second-hand, but want something taller for less piecing together.

 

[3KillerBs]

What do you think is the best height option for HWC, 24", 36", or 48"? I'm trying to avoid as much cutting as possible as I have arthritis in my cutting hand/thumb. I have four 24" rolls (partial) with 1/2"x1/2" openings that I bought second-hand, but want something taller for less piecing together.

We used 48" and spaced our posts so we could run 4-foot sections vertically.

To protect your hands, invest in electric metal shears. They're not expensive and work beautifully (I'm an arthritis sufferer myself).

Get this sort, not the ones that take a kerf out because that would salt your coop and run with tiny bits of metal: https://www.harborfreight.com/power...hears/35-amp-18-gauge-metal-shears-61737.html

 

[fuzzi]

We used 48" and spaced our posts so we could run 4-foot sections vertically.

To protect your hands, invest in electric metal shears. They're not expensive and work beautifully (I'm an arthritis sufferer myself).

Get this sort, not the ones that take a kerf out because that would salt your coop and run with tiny bits of metal: https://www.harborfreight.com/power...hears/35-amp-18-gauge-metal-shears-61737.html

Thank you.

I saw you post this shears link previously and saved it. It's currently not in stock in our local HF but "will be soon".

I bought myself calfskin gloves a couple months ago, love them!

And we have several safety glasses/goggles on hand. I hate wearing them but do.

 

[fuzzi]

I think I'll get 2 50' rolls of HWC, for ease of handling. The 100' roll weighs 60 pounds, which is beyond my abilities. I have a gift card balance from Christmas gifts, so they'll only cost about $100.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PQ11RG3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3C3UT11LATTSP&th=1

 

[fuzzi]

I like how they made a door, here:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-coop-brooder-with-roll-up-sides.75720/

ETA: I can't find a small cattle/hog panel, not even an 8', everything local is 16'.

 

[gtaus]

Question to All:
What do you think is the best height option for HWC, 24", 36", or 48"?

The best height, IMHO, for a chicken run covered with bird netting or a roof is about 6 feet high. Which is tall enough, so I don't have to bend over when doing cleaning or maintenance chores in the run. I talked to a lady who had chickens, years ago, and the only thing she hated was working in the chicken run because she used 4-foot-high fencing and had to bend over all the time. Chickens don't need 6-foot-tall fencing, so, it's purely for my comfort. If you don't have the budget to make a 6-foot-tall fence for the run, I suggest you design your run in such a way that you can make it taller later on if/when you get the finances.

I am assuming you are going to put some type of protection on the roof of the chicken run or you would not be spending money on hardware cloth for run fencing.

I'm trying to avoid as much cutting as possible as I have arthritis in my cutting hand/thumb. I have four 24" rolls (partial) with 1/2"x1/2" openings that I bought second-hand, but want something taller for less piecing together.

This past year I have started to experience arthritis in my cutting hand. I have one finger that locks up on me and somedays I cannot fully close my fist. I have had to rethink a number of things I used to take for granted. So, I think I can understand your situation.

There are powered snips for cutting metal wire fencing and tin. But they can cost ~$150.00 or more for the one's I am familiar with. They get great reviews for people that need to use the tool everyday. I am assuming that your limited budget (and mine) might appreciate alternatives.

So, might I suggest you consider buying an inexpensive electric 4-1/2 inch grinder like this one at Harbor Freight for $14.99.

WARRIOR​

4.3 Amp, 4-1/2 in. Angle Grinder with Slide Switch​

Just use a cheap metal cut off wheel on that grinder and you will be cutting through any fencing like a hot knife through butter. Much easier on the arthritic hands!

And, if that was not good enough of a deal, this weekend HF has a 30% off any one item less than $20.00 in the store. I think you could pick up this grinder for less than $10.00 plus tax.

I buy the metal cut off wheels by the 10 pack. Here is what I am thinking about...

BAUER 4-1/2 in. x 1/16 in. x 7/8 in. Type 1/41 Metal Cut-off Wheel, 10 Pack

They sell for $9.99 for a pack of ten, which would probably last you a lifetime. If you want to save more money, go back to HF another day this weekend and use that 30% off one item and get that 10 pack of cut off wheels for $7.00 plus tax. I cannot remember if they sell the cut off wheels individually. But you would probably only need one. The wheels do wear down over use, but they typically last me a long, long time before they need to be replaced.

I'm not trying to push HF as the only store to buy from, but they just happen to have this stuff for the lowest price in my town. I know Menards and Home Depot sell 4-1/2 inch grinders, too, but I don't know if they have inexpensive options. You can easily spend over $100 on a 4-1/2 inch grinder, but I'm telling you that you don't need to buy one of those. Even an inexpensive $15.00 grinder will cut through wire fencing like nothing.

I have 3 different 4-1/2 grinders in my garage. I use them for lots of different jobs. If you are not familiar with grinders, here is a nice YouTube basics video on the use of a grinder so you can decide if it's a tool that would work for you.

Anyways, I am not into hurting my old hands any more than I have too. So, I use my grinders more these days as compared to when I was younger and might just have used a tin snips. I need to protect my hands so I can get more things done. Hope some of these suggestions might help you as well.