Gapeworm and waterbelly

[catballou]

I just took my sweet sapphire gem to the nearest avian vet yesterday because she wasn't eating her morning treats.
Turns out she has gapeworm and waterbelly!
She must have picked up the gapeworm quite recently because there was no gasping, but her comb was getting dark and she was very thin. I had her drained, an X-ray done, fecal ran and picked up antibiotics, panacur wormer and a liquid form of meloxicam. I realize her life is going to be short due to the water belly, but I paid big $$$ bucks to bring her home. Her only friend, a calico princess ,would be devastated if she lost her. As would I. She is, of course, my favorite.

My questions are what do I do about all of the gapeworm eggs that are all over my run and yard? And, could water belly be caused by worms like gapeworm?

 

[Quarterhorses1]

My sapphire gem has to be euthanized because of water belly.
I’ve never dealt with the worms but I’d personally trash all eggs until it’s treated

 

[dawg53]

Waterbelly aka Ascites has nothing to do with worms.
There's not much that can be done about gapeworm eggs on or in the soil. Insects that have eaten gapeworm eggs are also a concern for your chickens because chickens love to eat insects (Indirect lifecycle.)

The only thing you can do for your chickens is to worm your birds monthly. I worm my birds monthly with Valbazen. I've used other other wormers including Safeguard, but Valbazen requires a less liquid dose than Safeguard.
Basically, you're worming your chickens as a monthly preventative much like giving a dog a monthly wormer.
We eat the eggs after using Safeguard or Valbazen, I'm still here typing.

However, if you suspect that you or a family member might have a reaction to either fenbendazole or albendazole, toss the eggs in the garbage for 2 weeks after the last dosing.
Keep in mind that both wormers are Benzimidazoles and are mostly excreted, only a small amount is absorbed into the bloodstream, and a minute amount in the eggs.

 

[PerturbedPanther]

Waterbelly aka Ascites has nothing to do with worms.
There's not much that can be done about gapeworm eggs on or in the soil. Insects that have eaten gapeworm eggs are also a concern for your chickens because chickens love to eat insects (Indirect lifecycle.)

The only thing you can do for your chickens is to worm your birds monthly. I worm my birds monthly with Valbazen. I've used other other wormers including Safeguard, but Valbazen requires a less liquid dose than Safeguard.
Basically, you're worming your chickens as a monthly preventative much like giving a dog a monthly wormer.
We eat the eggs after using Safeguard or Valbazen, I'm still here typing.

However, if you suspect that you or a family member might have a reaction to either fenbendazole or albendazole, toss the eggs in the garbage for 2 weeks after the last dosing.
Keep in mind that both wormers are Benzimidazoles and are mostly excreted, only a small amount is absorbed into the bloodstream, and a minute amount in the eggs.

Deworming livestock mothly is actually a really bad idea. The more often you deworm, the more resistant the surviving parasites become to the medicine you are using. You are also basically reseting your chickens viral load each month, and reducing the likelihood of them building up a natural resistance to the parasites. Deworming should only be done when the animal is noticebly sick or distressed, and you have done a fecal test to confirm that it is because of parasites.

 

[dawg53]

Deworming livestock mothly is actually a really bad idea. The more often you deworm, the more resistant the surviving parasites become to the medicine you are using. You are also basically reseting your chickens viral load each month, and reducing the likelihood of them building up a natural resistance to the parasites. Deworming should only be done when the animal is noticebly sick or distressed, and you have done a fecal test to confirm that it is because of parasites.

I've been worming chickens for years, using the same products. The only product that has shown worm resistance that I've used is Ivermectin.
When a chicken is sick with worms, they rarely recover and die due to the fact they are experts at hiding illness until the last minute. They arnt like mammals.

 

[Quarterhorses1]

I've been worming chickens for years, using the same products. The only product that has shown worm resistance that I've used is Ivermectin.
When a chicken is sick with worms, they rarely recover and die due to the fact they are experts at hiding illness until the last minute. They arnt like mammals.

I do it once yearly or if I suspect one is ill. Monthly is too much , even my horses get it every 6-8 months

 

[dawg53]

I do it once yearly or if I suspect one is ill. Monthly is too much , even my horses get it every 6-8 months

Again, birds are not mammals. Worm your birds as you see fit. It's your environment that determines how often you should worm. Our soil is warm and moist or wet most of the year which requires frequent worming. Chickens constantly peck the ground picking up and swallowing unseen worm eggs. if you get the chance, take a look at the Direct and Indirect lifecycle of poultry worms.
Birds kept penned or on the same soil most of the time should be wormed frequently. My birds are penned.

 

[catballou]

My sapphire gem has to be euthanized because of water belly.
I’ve never dealt with the worms but I’d personally trash all eggs until it’s treated

Deworming livestock mothly is actually a really bad idea. The more often you deworm, the more resistant the surviving parasites become to the medicine you are using. You are also basically reseting your chickens viral load each month, and reducing the likelihood of them building up a natural resistance to the parasites. Deworming should only be done when the animal is noticebly sick or distressed, and you have done a fecal test to confirm that it is because of parasites.

 

[catballou]

I had

Deworming livestock mothly is actually a really bad idea. The more often you deworm, the more resistant the surviving parasites become to the medicine you are using. You are also basically reseting your chickens viral load each month, and reducing the likelihood of them building up a natural resistance to the parasites. Deworming should only be done when the animal is noticebly sick or distressed, and you have done a fecal test to confirm that it is because of parasites.

I just had A fecal done. In 21 years I've never had a positive test until 3 days ago.
I'm worried about them picking up gapeworm eggs now, so I'll have a fecal done every month or two from now on. I don't worm without a positive test result.

 

[dawg53]

I had

I just had A fecal done. In 21 years I've never had a positive test until 3 days ago.
I'm worried about them picking up gapeworm eggs now, so I'll have a fecal done every month or two from now on. I don't worm without a positive test result.

Your goal is to stop the gapeworms lifecycle. It's the only way. Eggs will be in the soil for months. I highly recommend worming your birds monthly.
Your other option is to cull infected birds. Move your "non infected" birds to a clean area. Your non infected birds should be tested prior to moving them to clean soil. Then rotate foraging grounds.
Good luck.