Hatching Guinea keets... Questions

[Leaguinea]

I have a Bator of Guinea eggs not all are viable but some are. I locked down Friday evening (day25) and then had my first hatch Saturday morning (day26) it hatched within 40min of pipping the shell. Second keet was out of the shell this morning.
Q 1. How long can I leave them in the bator without food??? Im scared of opening the Bator and messing up the humidity..
Q 2. What is the recommended food for them?

 

[PD-Riverman]

I leave them in until they all hatch or a day after the due hatch date. 3 days most of the time for the first hatched----With NO Problems. And I to do not open my incubator until then.

I have raised a lot of them and they 2 get 20% chick starter and a sprinkle of sand each time I fill their food tray. I Know some feed them 24% and higher----that's your call. Mine are beautiful and healthy at 20%.

Edited to add---they absorb the egg yolk when hatching---it gives them food/moisture to live off while the rest hatch----this works for broody hens and works in the incubator.

 

[Pyxis]

You can leave them for two or three days without any trouble, since they will live off the yolk for that long without needing food or water. However, studies have shown that they can actually better utilize the yolk if they do have access to food and water earlier, like by 24 hours old. I open my incubator all the time during hatch with no ill effects, so I would probably be taking them out in batches as they dry, but if you're not comfortable with that, they can be left in there.

Guineas are a game bird and as such they need a game bird feed to grow to their best potential. I feed them game bird starter with at least 24% protein. I have fed less than that before, and the ones with higher protein grow faster and feather in faster than those that I've fed at a lower protein level.

 

[Wickedchicken6]

I do the same as Pyxis apparently...lol.

The longest I've had one in was 1.5 days. I normally take them out of the incubator when a few are dried off. I feed them on a 24% protein prestarter I had purchased for my quail. They get moved onto 21% medicated prior to getting moved to the coop brooder. I haven't done a comparison. But the keets I've raised in the last two years have been healthy.

 

[PD-Riverman]

Q 1. How long can I leave them in the bator without food??? Im scared of opening the Bator and messing up the humidity.?

The reason I do not open my incubator any more until the hatch day has past is years back when I did that, seemed most of the unhatched eggs would not hatch about every time. My mother had the same problem, my step sister, several of my friends all had the same problem. Then I started just leaving them in until the day after the hatch date and I had some good hatches. Then I shared this with my Mother and everyone and they to let them stay in and they two had great hatches, for many hatches----some friends to this day still hatch a few times a year and still have good hatches---leaving them in.

OK after getting on this forum----I have found out that a lot say they have good hatches opening at will!! So my conclusion is---Location----got to be. Maybe if I did like some and opened at will then become a hands-on-hatcher---help the ones that need it----maybe I would have a lot better hatches than I did years back when I opened at will?? Not sure?? I know now---I do not have to open to help---I just let them sit tight until its time to open and take all out----which most of the time that number will be close 100% hatch.

When a Newbie doesn't feel comfortable opening---I just let them know I have a better hatch leaving it closed.

What I have found out on here is that a newbie with no experience has a lot better luck just leaving everything closed than a newbie that opens all the time. So I never suggest to a newbie to open and remove at will----if they feel comfortable at it--its their incubator.

The ones that open at will and have great hatches----that's Good---continue doing what works---that's What I do.

 

[Leaguinea]

Thank you so much for all the helpful information. At this time I will just leave the incubator alone and let nature take its course. I don't really want to take the chance at messing up the hatching. Another hatched this evening.
I totally am a newbie and have learnt so much by reading threads and posts on this site. But still don't feel confident enough to mess with the activity in there.

 

[Leaguinea]

Q 3. What temperature should the brooder be, under the heat lamp?

 

[Pyxis]

Well, I use a heat plate brooder now, but when I did use a heat lamp I did the same temperatures that chicks need.

 

[PD-Riverman]

Q 3. What temperature should the brooder be, under the heat lamp?

The problem with a heat lamp is if you get it high enough it is about 90 degree's in the middle of the hottest part of the light----its to wide for a small brooder. If you got it hanging in a big room---with a few hundred chicks--then it will be ok. How big is your brooder? First week about 90/95 directly under the light----drop about 5 degree's every week, But during this hot summer you probably don't need it much during the day.

I never use a heat lamp bulb----I use the light fixture but use like 40 or 60 watt incandescent bulbs----set where the heat is about 90 directly below the light the first week----then the light is not raised real high and the rest of the brooder is not heated much by the light. Sure there is all kinds of things, ways, some thermostat controlled that make it easier.

 

[Wickedchicken6]

I use a 60 watt incandescent spotlight in the house. It' high enough to be safe yet projects enough heat to be sufficient. I move the light up according to the keets and how they position themselves from the light.

In the coop I use a heat lamp. The brooder fixture has three setting; high, low and off. I've found guinea keets to be quite hardy.