Help with Coccidiosis in chick!!!!

rosemarysugar

Songster
Mar 1, 2018
489
596
221
Meeker, Colorado
I have 3 chicks around 4 wks that have had a rusty/yellow diarrhea they were on Sulfa/Trimeth and then switched over to Albon. They've been on one med or the other for about a week. Two have gotten better and one not so much. She's not getting worse but also not much better. Is this med not working or does it just take time? She's very lethargic, always trying to snuggle with the others as they play. Is this the wrong antibiotic? Is there one that treats all strains? Please help.
 
I have 3 chicks around 4 wks that have had a rusty/yellow diarrhea they were on Sulfa/Trimeth and then switched over to Albon. They've been on one med or the other for about a week. Two have gotten better and one not so much. She's not getting worse but also not much better. Is this med not working or does it just take time? She's very lethargic, always trying to snuggle with the others as they play. Is this the wrong antibiotic? Is there one that treats all strains? Please help.
How did this all come about? Did you take to vet and get diagnosed? Can you post photos of chick and poop? Is she eating, drinking ok? You probably should separate her now. You don't want her getting picked on or reinfecting.
 
If they have been on these meds for a week I would try some Corid on the one that is not responding to the sulfa drugs. Corid is more mild on the chicks system but more effective against all strains of coccidia from what I understand and can be purchased in the cattle section of your local farm store without a prescription. If you have the choice between the liquid or powder, I would recommend the liquid because you can direct dose the sick chick with a couple of drops of the concentrated liquid for a couple of days to give them a boost start as well as put 2 teaspoons per gallon of water (scale it down for just 3 chicks) as their only source of water. It will not hurt the recovering chicks to drink it too. It needs to be made fresh each day for 7 days and then a more dilute mixture for another 7-10 days. After the Corid treatment is finished, it is best to dose them with a vitamin supplement that contains B complex vitamins.
It is important to ensure that there is a cool end in the brooder and keep the food and water in that area to prevent coccidia flourishing in warm water. Many people do not realise that chicks do not need to be kept warm all the time and it is healthier for them to have the majority of the brooder cool and just a small area heated. Just like they would be running about in the open air if they were being raised by a broody hen and just snuggle under her to warm up when they need to. Food and water in that situation would be cold which is healthier as organisms like bacteria and protozoa like coccidia find it much harder to flourish in cold water.
 
This started when we adopted them at a family farm that doesn't vaccinate or anything. Mistake. Yes, the vet diagnosed it. I actually just talked to him and he said to add the corrid to the water. I'm going to get some first thing in the morning.
 
If they have been on these meds for a week I would try some Corid on the one that is not responding to the sulfa drugs. Corid is more mild on the chicks system but more effective against all strains of coccidia from what I understand and can be purchased in the cattle section of your local farm store without a prescription. If you have the choice between the liquid or powder, I would recommend the liquid because you can direct dose the sick chick with a couple of drops of the concentrated liquid for a couple of days to give them a boost start as well as put 2 teaspoons per gallon of water (scale it down for just 3 chicks) as their only source of water. It will not hurt the recovering chicks to drink it too. It needs to be made fresh each day for 7 days and then a more dilute mixture for another 7-10 days. After the Corid treatment is finished, it is best to dose them with a vitamin supplement that contains B complex vitamins.
It is important to ensure that there is a cool end in the brooder and keep the food and water in that area to prevent coccidia flourishing in warm water. Many people do not realise that chicks do not need to be kept warm all the time and it is healthier for them to have the majority of the brooder cool and just a small area heated. Just like they would be running about in the open air if they were being raised by a broody hen and just snuggle under her to warm up when they need to. Food and water in that situation would be cold which is healthier as organisms like bacteria and protozoa like coccidia find it much harder to flourish in cold water.

I just talked to the vet and he said to keep up with the sulfa and add in the corid drinking water as well. I sure hope this works. Thank you.
 
Do you mind posting pictures of your brooder

Not pointing any fingers. A while back a friend got chicks the same time I did. Half of mine came from a small breeder that didn't vaccinate and half came from the feed stores that got them from hatcheries that did vaccinate. All my feed store chicks had pasty butt issues for the first week or so.

Half of hers came from a Mennonite farm and half from a breeder. None were vaccinated or treated with anything. All of hers ended up with pasty butt issues.

I really did think part of it had to do with a change in water, feed and the general stress of the move. To me city water smells like a public swimming pool. After I convinced her to let her water sit in an open container for a day before filling their waterers it cleared up.
 
Do you mind posting pictures of your brooder

Not pointing any fingers. A while back a friend got chicks the same time I did. Half of mine came from a small breeder that didn't vaccinate and half came from the feed stores that got them from hatcheries that did vaccinate. All my feed store chicks had pasty butt issues for the first week or so.

Half of hers came from a Mennonite farm and half from a breeder. None were vaccinated or treated with anything. All of hers ended up with pasty butt issues.

I really did think part of it had to do with a change in water, feed and the general stress of the move. To me city water smells like a public swimming pool. After I convinced her to let her water sit in an open container for a day before filling their waterers it cleared up.


Talked to the vet and he said add corid to the water and continue with sulfa/trimethoprim
 

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