when it starts rocking, but before then tapping is a pretty good way to tell. Also the feel of the egg will change - They start out feeling like water baloons with a solid shell, but as the embryo developes they start to feel more solid inside. Some of the bigger breeding facilites also use high powered infrared lights to see the air cell. I have been told that infertile eggs will start oozing a couple of weeks into incubation, I have seen oozing eggs and can tell you they smell horrible.
Mine started rocking at day 35, before then I had no real indication that they were fertile.
With tapping you can try to find the air cell, it will have a different tone compared to the rest of the egg and as it grows it will become more pronounced.