Ideas to attach omlet cube run to a walk-in covered kennel?

[Flixflaxnoob]

I just ordered an omlet cube and 6ft run for 6 hens. Any ideas on how to rig the omlet run to a larger walk-in run? I was thinking of just getting a covered dog kennel to use as a walk-in run and adding HWC for reinforcement against predators. I think it would be cheaper than getting the walk-in run from omlet but maybe not after all the modifications needed to the third party run.

Forgot to mention that I also want the option to use the omlet cube/run as a chicken tractor. I just found that omlet sells a little door kit that I might use.

 

[DonyaQuick]

I don’t have an omelet coop but have a wood prefab and extended it with an 8x8 walk in kennel type thing, which didn’t fit flush, so I had to build a connector. It’s daytime only access so the kennel I use is larger spaces welded wire which is less secure of course but has worked well for me. If it was going to sit as 24/7 access and be unattended long past sundown then I would need to HWC over it, so it’s a good idea if you have the option.

My recollection is omelet coops have a little pop door at the end of the run or a removable panel or something that makes them modular. Sit the kennel as close as you can to that opening; you might be able to have it just kind of enclose the very end of the omelet sitting with a wall just over the skirt and may only need to cut some wire on the kennel. Some kennels have a removable panel for that type of connection although the fit wouldn’t be exact, but then you could just plug the gaps with wood panels or HWC.

If the kennel would press on the skirt and damage it or would stop the pop door opening (my case with my setup) sit it just far enough to avoid that and join with hardware cloth or wood to make a small tunnel. You can zip tie it on, or if worried about security can use metal zip ties. If you can’t get the kennel close enough to reach the pop door from inside the kennel, you can make a wood and HWC connector with its own door and latches to have pop door access, which is what I did. It was pretty cheap to build; main expense was the HWC. A bit silly I suppose to need a door to get at a door but it works.

 

[Flixflaxnoob]

I don’t have an omelet coop but have a wood prefab and extended it with an 8x8 walk in kennel type thing, which didn’t fit flush, so I had to build a connector. It’s daytime only access so the kennel I use is larger spaces welded wire which is less secure of course but has worked well for me. If it was going to sit as 24/7 access and be unattended long past sundown then I would need to HWC over it, so it’s a good idea if you have the option.

My recollection is omelet coops have a little pop door at the end of the run or a removable panel or something that makes them modular. Sit the kennel as close as you can to that opening; you might be able to have it just kind of enclose the very end of the omelet sitting with a wall just over the skirt and may only need to cut some wire on the kennel. Some kennels have a removable panel for that type of connection although the fit wouldn’t be exact, but then you could just plug the gaps with wood panels or HWC.

If the kennel would press on the skirt and damage it or would stop the pop door opening (my case with my setup) sit it just far enough to avoid that and join with hardware cloth or wood to make a small tunnel. You can zip tie it on, or if worried about security can use metal zip ties. If you can’t get the kennel close enough to reach the pop door from inside the kennel, you can make a wood and HWC connector with its own door and latches to have pop door access, which is what I did. It was pretty cheap to build; main expense was the HWC. A bit silly I suppose to need a door to get at a door but it works.

I just edited my post. I forgot to mention that I also want to be able to use the omlet coop/run as tractor. I just found that omlet sells a little door kit to add onto the run. I'll just have to make the same size hole in my run and as you said, fill in gaps with HWC.

 

[DonyaQuick]

I just edited my post. I forgot to mention that I also want to be able to use the omlet coop/run as tractor. I just found that omlet sells a little door kit to add onto the run. I'll just have to make the same size hole in my run and as you said, fill in gaps with HWC.

That could be quite a bit tougher if you want it to be fully predator proof when hooked up but still want an easy detachment to use the omlet as a tractor. When / under what conditions would the kennel be in use vs. having the setup in tractor mode?

 

[nuthatched]

Unless you're absolutely set on an omelet, I would recommend you cancel your order and spend that $$$ on having someone build you a coop.
Omelets are lacking in space, ventilation and aren't predator proof like almost all prefabs.
They aren't all they're cracked up to be.

 

[Flixflaxnoob]

Unless you're absolutely set on an omelet, I would recommend you cancel your order and spend that $$$ on having someone build you a coop.
Omelets are lacking in space, ventilation and aren't predator proof like almost all prefabs.
They aren't all they're cracked up to be.

Eh. I'm pretty set on it. To have someone build me a coop/run would have cost me a lot more and would still probably require some more predator proofing. The Omlet Eglu being easy to clean and used as a chicken tractor was really appealing to me. From what I've seen online, it seems being predator-proof was one of the best qualities of the omlet products. For now and my planned 4-6 hens, I think it will suit my needs fine. I will definitely look into getting a bigger coop if I decide to expand in the future.

 

[Flixflaxnoob]

When / under what conditions would the kennel be in use vs. having the setup in tractor mode?

Between me and my husband, we are often doing things outside around our property. I plan to use Eglu as a tractor during those times to help clear space for a new garden bed, help manage the huge ant and tick infestation around our property, and to give them new areas to forage. I like the idea of being able to rotate their foraging grounds. I plan to keep them inside the coop at night to ensure they are protected against predators. I am just planning on 4-6 hens for now, so there should be plenty of space in the Eglu.

 

[aart]

I am just planning on 4-6 hens for now, so there should be plenty of space in the Eglu.

Not sure about that....haven't seen any that would work for 6, maybe 4.
Integration would be a nightmare.
Ventilation is minimal to poor.
Which model will you be getting?

Welcome to BYC! @Flixflaxnoob
Where in this world are you located?
Climate, and time of year, is almost always a factor.
Please add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!

 

[nuthatched]

Eh. I'm pretty set on it. To have someone build me a coop/run would have cost me a lot more and would still probably require some more predator proofing. The Omlet Eglu being easy to clean and used as a chicken tractor was really appealing to me. From what I've seen online, it seems being predator-proof was one of the best qualities of the omlet products. For now and my planned 4-6 hens, I think it will suit my needs fine. I will definitely look into getting a bigger coop if I decide to expand in the future.

Depending on the model, I've never seen one that could hold more than 4 birds, maximum.
They cost $1000, you can most certainly build, or find someone to build you a decent sized tractor, If you're unable yourself.
Here are some plans.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/categories/tractor-coops.17/

Prefabs use the same space recommendations as factory egg farms: 1 square foot per bird, no roosts, nest boxes optional. debeaking to prevent them from hurting each other from anxiety or boredom.
The general space recommendations for people who raise chickens are: atleast 4sq feet per bird in the coop, atleast 8 square feet per bird in the run, 14" linear roost space per bird, roosts above their heads but under the ventilation. Atleast 1sq foot of permanent ventilation per bird. One nest box per 3-4 birds.

Have you ever used a portable potty on a summers day? Those have more ventilation than an eglu.
The easy to clean part pertains to the ability to hose it out, which is the only way to clean them since they're so small.
They are not designed with chickens instincts, health or well being in mind. I'm actually not sure what they're designed for besides to rip off newbie chicken people.

 

[Flixflaxnoob]

Not sure about that....haven't seen any that would work for 6, maybe 4.
Integration would be a nightmare.
Ventilation is minimal to poor.
Which model will you be getting?

Welcome to BYC! @Flixflaxnoob
Where in this world are you located?
Climate, and time of year, is almost always a factor.
Please add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!
View attachment 3721309

I am getting the Eglu Cube model which they say can fit 10 hens, but reviews say probably no more than 8 depending on the breed so I am also considering the hen size when selecting breeds. I'm not planning to get 6 orpingtons.