Incubator Design Process

[HatchCraft]

No I have 220. However the diagram shows it’s for both.

I don't see how you could damage the unit making concections. Maybe you got a bad one.

 

[Tstraub]

I have never use that controller but it looks to me like all it should need to power up is 110 -220 VAC @50-60 Htz. Across terminals 1&2. Polarity shouldn’t matter it’s AC. All other connections are control circuits and shouldn’t be needed just to get the thing to light up.

 

[BantyChooks]

I don't see how you could damage the unit making concections. Maybe you got a bad one.

Wondering. It was from „warehouse surplus” sale.

 

[BantyChooks]

I have never use that controller but it looks to me like all it should need to power up is 110 -220 VAC @50-60 Htz. Across terminals 1&2. Polarity shouldn’t matter it’s AC. All other connections are control circuits and shouldn’t be needed just to get the thing to light up.

Yeah exactly. I think the thermostat itself isn’t working. I verified with a multimeter that it’s live at the terminal.

 

[Tstraub]

I believe you got a bad unit. Is the sensor plugged in? Maybe it needs to see the sensor. I would think that if it were a sensor it would still light up and display an error code or something but I’m just grasping at straws here.

 

[BantyChooks]

I believe you got a bad unit. Is the sensor plugged in? Maybe it needs to see the sensor. I would think that if it were a sensor it would still light up and display an error code or something but I’m just grasping at straws here.

Yep I wired up the probe as well.

I switched live back to terminal 1 as per the first diagram (my original configuration). Along with the jumper cable. Still nothing. I think I’ll order a different brand this time. One that knows how to write a wiring diagram lol.

 

[Tstraub]

The only difference I see in the diagrams is that in the second diagram they are switching the neutral side of the load. It’s not generally the best practice because it leaves more live wires for people to touch but functionally it’s the same circuit either should work without damaging the controller. If you bought it as warehouse surplus I suspect it was actually a customer return and broken before you got it.

Personally depending on the return policy and money spent to get it I would probably take it apart and have a look inside maybe it has a replaceable fuse or something easy to repair.

 

[BantyChooks]

The only difference I see in the diagrams is that in the second diagram they are switching the neutral side of the load. It’s not generally the best practice because it leaves more live wires for people to touch but functionally it’s the same circuit either should work without damaging the controller. If you bought it as warehouse surplus I suspect it was actually a customer return and broken before you got it.

Personally depending on the return policy and money spent to get it I would probably take it apart and have a look inside maybe it has a replaceable fuse or something easy to repair.

Good to know thanks. Doesn’t feel like best practice to have conflicting diagrams for folks like myself that would prefer to know exactly where to put which wires.

Disassembling it now.

 

[BantyChooks]

Looks fine to me.

 

[Tstraub]

Looks fine to me.
View attachment 4088103

I don’t see anything obvious in the attached picture