Mags’ New Forever Coop Build

[MagistraTn]

Hey there,

Ive been in the throes of indecision about the coop/run build at our new home, which is currently under construction. I was going to have our builder (a great craftsman) build us a copycat Carolina coop. Then, I was just going to buy a henhouse from Carolina Coops. But last night I was struck with inspiration to have our build team build a 12’x12’ (or there-a-bouts) shed and split it into storage and henhouse with attached covered run (12’x24’ with access to ample pasture rotation).

Now, I’m trying to figure out the best configuration for inside. I found this detailed hybrid shed/coop build but would like to reconfigure it so I can walk through the gabled end and out into the run. I’m planning to have nest access, feed storage and various other storage in the shed portion, so would like easy access to the run.

https://shedplansideasy.blogspot.com/2016/03/cb210-combo-plans-chicken-coop-plans.html

We currently have 13 hens and 2 Roos, but I’d like to be able to house up to 30. I have a brooder box we built that could go out in the run for broodies/sickies or I could struggle to squeeze it in the henhouse, where it would have more shelter. It’s bulky.

I’m in a mild climate in Tennessee and my flock has been living in a pretty open air red-neck coop for 3 years now. The main downside has been Marans Roos comb getting a little frostbite and me worrying about them, but I actually think it’s made them more hardy. I want to get the ventilation right this time, though.

I will update this tread with my design ideas, struggles & progress. But in the meantime, I’d love any advice y’all want to offer.

The build will likely be 2x4 framing with black hardware cloth for windows and run. If the henhouse is 5x12’ I calculate there should be 6-8 sqft of ventilation.

Is it ok to be on 3 sides?
Do I need ventilation at the base?
Should I put in windows with screens, or just hwc and shutters?
They’re used to roosting up in the high rafters and I’m looking forward to getting them at a more reasonable altitude. Is it best to have the windows/ventilation above their roosts, or does it not matter so much? There will be soffit venting wherever possible and the wall to the run will have a fair amount of ventilation, I suspect.

Looking forward to hearing some feedback and advice from more experienced chicken tenders

 

[StinkyAcres]

A 5'x12' coop is only big enough for about 15 birds MAX, and that is still tight in my opinion. You will need a lot larger coop if you want to eventually have 30. I recommend a minimum of 1 square foot of year round ventilation per bird.

Do I need ventilation at the base?

No. The pop door will provide extra ventilation near the floor, if needed at all.

Should I put in windows with screens, or just hwc and shutters?

Definitely hardware cloth the windows whether they have screens or not. Screens aren't much use in a coop. I'd suggest glass windows for the natural light and warmth during cold sunny days.

Is it best to have the windows/ventilation above their roosts, or does it not matter so much?

My windows are at roost height. It helps to keep the chickens cool during summer nights. I'd include lots of windows since you experience hot summers in TN. 24/7/365 ventilation should be up high above their heads in the soffits to prevent drafts from hitting them in the winter and on opposite walls for proper cross ventilation.

 

[MagistraTn]

Thank you!

I thought it was 1-2 sq ft per bird for the henhouse? 5x12 is 60sqft…did I remember wrong? They’ll only be in there at night or to lay an egg. And I will generally not have more than 20, unless I raise some meat and that’s only for a couple of months.

Thanks for all the input, I’ll be back with drawings.

 

[StinkyAcres]

1-2 sq ft per bird is factory standards. Not conducive at all to a peaceful and healthy chicken flock. Here we recommend 4 sq ft in the coop and 10 sq ft in the run per bird as a bare minimum. The more space the better.

 

[MagistraTn]

Thanks. I think I got the 1 ft per bird from Carolina coops:

They (Carolina coops) say an 6x8’henhouse will accommodate 24 chooks with free ranging. And figured I could easily get 30 ft of roost with 8’ side walls & 12’ gable. I will bump the henhouse up to 8’x15’ (120sqft)

How do I calculate the square footage of soffit ventilation? So far I have 22 sqft in windows & doors. Does my pop door count, as it will be closed most of the time they’re all in there. This is the one I like and has worked well for me:

https://chickendoors.com/product/standard-pullet-shut-chicken-door-combination/

 

[StinkyAcres]

Trust me - 1 sq ft per chicken would be stuffed. This is what about 5 sq ft looks like:

How do I calculate the square footage of soffit ventilation?

You can multiply the length of the soffit by the height of the rafters to get an estimate. To get an exact square footage you'll need to know how many rafters there are going to be and subtract the widths of the rafters. 2x6 rafters are about 5.5" high and 1.5" wide.

So far I have 22 sqft in windows & doors. Does my pop door count, as it will be closed most of the time they’re all in there.

The windows and pop door do not count if you plan to close them at all.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Thanks. I think I got the 1 ft per bird from Carolina coops:
View attachment 4039122
They (Carolina coops) say an 6x8’henhouse will accommodate 24 chooks with free ranging. And figured I could easily get 30 ft of roost with 8’ side walls & 12’ gable. I will bump the henhouse up to 8’x15’ (120sqft)

How do I calculate the square footage of soffit ventilation? So far I have 22 sqft in windows & doors. Does my pop door count, as it will be closed most of the time they’re all in there. This is the one I like and has worked well for me:

You've misread it. The first square is 1 ft per bird on the roost. Coop floor space is a different matter and it sounds like you plan on growing the flock over time, so extra space will be beneficial. Even by their math they calculated 2 sq ft per bird but on BYC we generally promote 4 sq ft per bird for flock peace.

120 sq ft should be good for your purposes. It'll also naturally allow for more air volume due to more cubic sq footage overall, which contributes to overall health as well.

Pop doors, human doors and even windows don't count into ventilation, unless left open overnight. With soffit, it depends on what the measurements of the openings would be (you'd probably need to post the blueprint for calculation).

 

[MagistraTn]

I think the soffits will give 10 sq ft of ventilation and I will forgo windows for hardware cloth & shutters that lift up vs out so they can be cracked to various amounts during inclement weather. So that puts me up to 24sqft, without the run side (there will be more there, I just haven’t figured it yet)

Here is my preliminary Floorplan.

I would like to build the nesting boxes through the wall so I can access them from the shed side, but having some difficulty fleshing out the details for my builder. I’m also struggling to figure out how to place the roosts. Any advice on that appreciated.

 

[Ted Brown]

Check out a Woods Coop design, perfect for Vermont climate! Proven and then a lot of decisions and design queries go away.

The design is scalable from 6x10 to 8x12 to 10x16. The 8x12 will accommodate 24 birds with appropriate run space.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...y-16-coop-build.1304202/page-37#post-28365053

Good luck.

 

[MagistraTn]

Thanks, Ted, I’m looking into that

I am thinking of raising the floor on the coop portion so the chooks can hang out under there they spend several hours a day under a trailer in their run, so they like the cool, dry and safe from hawks spots.

If I go with this idea, I would have Carolina coop style double doors that open up on the pasture side for cleaning.

Anyone have any thoughts on the maximum depth to be able to reach in with a broom or rake to clean it out? Probably only once or twice a year, but 8’ seems borderline too deep. I’m not a spring chicken (, more like a worn out old hen!), and my youngest will be off to college in 3.5 years. I have no intention of climbing up in there.

Attached elevation plans of run side, with pop door & ladder and pasture side with 2 3’ French style door openings