Enough water - damp sand and shade for extreme heat - Mine have come through over 110F. Shade moves through out the day, and shade needs to be available at all times.
No need for ice in the water. But a real need for a lot of water.
As for the cold. Do not think warm, instead, think DRY. A lot of bedding on the floor, to dry out manure, and ventilation well above their heads while on the roost is what is important. Arranging the roosts so that birds are not close to the walls or to the ceiling is what I aim for, but once I had a rooster that always roosted right next to the wall, no matter how much other space he had. This keeps them drier, and moisture that build on the surface of cold things away from them.
Often times, I see posted advice of locking them in the coop all day at first to home them. In the summer, that can be very dangerous, and unnecessary if you have an attached run. Leave the pop up doors open so they can choose to go in or out as needed during the day. You probably should shut it at night to protect against predators as chicken wire is not predator proof.
Mrs K
No need for ice in the water. But a real need for a lot of water.
As for the cold. Do not think warm, instead, think DRY. A lot of bedding on the floor, to dry out manure, and ventilation well above their heads while on the roost is what is important. Arranging the roosts so that birds are not close to the walls or to the ceiling is what I aim for, but once I had a rooster that always roosted right next to the wall, no matter how much other space he had. This keeps them drier, and moisture that build on the surface of cold things away from them.
Often times, I see posted advice of locking them in the coop all day at first to home them. In the summer, that can be very dangerous, and unnecessary if you have an attached run. Leave the pop up doors open so they can choose to go in or out as needed during the day. You probably should shut it at night to protect against predators as chicken wire is not predator proof.
Mrs K
