New 4 x 8 Chicken Tractor - pics, material list & COST!

azelgin

Crowing
16 Years
Jan 18, 2008
1,277
67
336
S.E. AZ
This is my 2nd attempt at a chicken tractor. the first one was OK, but needed a few changes. This is the first one I built for Bob:
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A few changes that were needed, were the addition of a nest box, move the access door to the center, handles for easier moving, a place for the waterer, wider and shorter for fitting in the back of a pickup truck.
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The new design has a 4 x 8 floor plan foot print, so it can be hauled in the back of my truck. The handles are part of the roof framing that extend past the roofing. Skids on the right side are the wall framing extended past to provide a place to attach some wheels.
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The door is in the center this time, so I can access the coop section, without crawling in from the end. There is a platform for the waterer on the door, so it is easy to get in and out of the run. A 36" piece of 4" plastic pipe, with two elbows on the bottom, is the feeder.
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The nest box is made from 1/2" plywood and is removable without tools. This gives an easy access to the coop. The box is built to fit through the hole and drop down into place. The lid has no hinge to leak and locks the box in place with the notches at the top keeping it from being pushed in, or lifted up. It is secured to the box frame at the bottom end by a simple gate hook.
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The framing is 2 x 3s for the tops and bottoms of the sidewalls (ripped from 2 x 6), 2 x 4 ridge with a 22 1/2 degree bevel for the 5/12 pitch roof and 2 x 2s for all other members (ripped from 2 x 4). I have a 1" crown stapler that was used for framing, side stapled the way RVs used to be built. 3"~ 3 1/2" deck screws would be a good substitute.
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The side wall height was kept at 35", so the 3' wire (I used stucco wire - my bad) could by wrapped onto the top framing and be additionally secured with the roofing panels. The bottoms and end were stapled with a wide crown stapler and 1 x 2 strips attached over that. The siding is corrugated roofing removed from a remodel project.

WHAT DID IT ALL COST?
I always see projects people have done by salvaging, scrounging and stealing materials, without ever telling what it would cost to just run down to Home Depot, or wherever and buy the supplies.
I'm guilty too. This one cost me $70, including the $30 for a new waterer. I decided to figure what it would cost, if I had to go out and buy EVERYTHING. Sometimes, it's just not practical to spend days hunting down freebies. So, here is what it would take and what it would cost:

4 pieces of 10' corrugated roofing $50.00
3 - 2 x 6 x 8' for framing $10.50
7 - 2 x 4 x 8' $17.50
4 - 1 x 2 x 8' wire cleats $3.20
1/2 sheet of 1/2" plywood $5.00 $10.00 if you have to buy a full sheet
Stucco netting - 16' @ .18 $3.00 $28.00 for a full roll (150')
1 piece of 4" x 4" flashing - ridge cap $8.00
1 piece metal corner trim $4.00
1 pair 3" x 3" door hinges $3.50
2 gate latches $2.00
misc. screws, nails, etc. $15.00 Will be some left over
3 feet of 4" PVC pipe @ .80 - feeder $2.40 $8.00 for a 10' piece
2 - 4" PVC elbows - feeder $5.00
1 - 4" PVC cap - feeder $1.50
3 gallon metal waterer $30.00

Total for everything would be $160.60. More, if you can't buy, or scrounge partial quantities of certain items. Less, if the places you shop have better prices. I think I have about 12 hours of time invested in this project. The next one would take less. I was doing as much thinking, as I was building on this one.
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I was thinking about putting this on my BYC page, if I ever make one up.
 
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I LOVE your tractor coop; I think it's awesome that it will fit in the back of a truck. Thanks so much for all the detailed info, including the cost. I'm still searching for ideas for coops, etc..
 
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Thanks for the compliment. I'm much more satisfied with the design of this one, over Bob's place. Fitting in the back of the pickup seemed like a good idea. Easy to haul to another spot on the ranch, instead of putting it on a trailer, or dragging it cross country. It turned out pretty light weight too. I don't think it is much over 150#. I was worried about Bob's blowing away, being lightweight too, but it's seen winds up to about 50mph and stayed put. The removable nest box will be great, If we decide to put a floor in the coop area. Should make it possible to clean it out, without taking the roof off.
 
Incredibly well done!! I'm so impressed. I build Catawba Converticoops to supplement the income I get from my "day job", and have been interested in what other designs are out there for when I want to build one for myself.

The only thing I didn't understand in your design was this:

"with a 22 1/2 degree bevel for the 5/12 pitch roof"

I'm not a carpenter at all. I just hooked up my miter saw with the laser and follow instructions. What are the angles on the pieces that attach to the ridge line?

Also, what kind of wood did you use? I've been using pine and spruce and have had to be really careful in selecting each piece because a bend in the wrong place will totally throw me off.

Thanks so much for sharing!
 
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I ran the ridge board, as well as the top framing members for the side walls through the table saw @ 22 1/2 degrees. A 5/12 roof (5" rise per each 12"of run) pitch comes out to 22.5 degrees. The ridge is beveled both ways, to make a center peak. The angles let the roofing screw down flat, without deforming. The "mini rafters" are end cut at 22.5 degrees also.

I used Douglas fir, for all the framing. Not the best pieces to choose from at my local Home Depot here in S.E. Arizona. I use 2 x 4s and 2 X 6s, ripped down, instead of 2 x 2s and 2 x 3s, because the smaller dimention lumber is twisted junk. I just avoid the 2 x 4 stuff with gnarly knots, get it all put together ASAP and it works fine.

!0' metal was used, because each roof piece is 30" long, so no waste there. Wall pieces are cut out of 10' also. Two 35" for the side walls and one tall left over for the gable ends out of each piece. 1/2 plywood for the run gables.
 

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