Precision Extreme Hen House coop - any info?

[yorumsfield]

Hi! I have three little babies (2-weeks old) in a brooder box, and I'm trying to get a coop set up for them very soon. I had planned on the Handcrafted Coop ark, but after a problem with damage during shipping, I don't think that will work out. I live in a residential suburb with close neighbors, and so we want something that looks nice and is functional, a good use of space and easy to maintain. I am thinking about this Extreme Hen House coop (I have a 4-month old baby and very limited time, so building my own isn't really possible right now! ) and I was wondering if anyone here has it and can relay the living space dimensions (see picture below). The dimensions the company has available are for the entire space only. These Precision coops seem to be a little nicer than some of the other pre-fab options, but I was hoping to get some opinions! The space I have for the ladies will be along the side of the house, and the size of this coop looks like it will fit well. I plan to give them lots of free-range time, but I'll have to keep a close eye on them because my husband has a passion for rare palm trees, and the two won't mesh very well, I think...

Thank you!

 

[nurse_turtle]

That looks ideal for 3 hens.

 

[PeepsAreForMe]

Personally I don't think it is worth the money they are asking. I don't meant to sound pessimistic - I have their Boomer & George Deluxe Chicken Coop - http://www.chickencoopsource.com/chicken-coops/chicken-coops/chickencoopdeluxe.cfm and I am really not satisfied with it. Bending down into that little door to clean got old really fast! And the poop drawer is very shallow - I can barely put any pine shavings in it. The one you are looking at looks bigger and gives them more room to roam. I just can't justify the price they are asking, but if you can't build one yourself, this may be the way to go for you. And please learn from my mistake - I ordered one ($300 + $5 shipping) and worried it would be too small so I ordered another one ($400 + $5 shipping) and to return the original one would have cost me $150 in shipping! I'm still trying to sell it.Anyway, just be 200% sure this is the one you want.

 

[yorumsfield]

Thank you so much for the feedback! Yeah, even though some place will accept returns doesn't mean it's easy to follow through with one. I think I'll keep looking and may consider pouring this time I plan to spend searching into building one myself.

 

[Calomel]

Or, if you have a friend who's handy with a drill and construction plans, ask if they could be hired to do the building for you? If you buy the supplies/ find them secondhand and pay for construction I don't think it would be any more expensive than buying one of the premade coops and having it shipped. You'd also have the benefit of having a coop made from highly rated plans that have been approved by multiple chicken keepers.

 

[Nickichicki]

agree with the above posting about building one or hiring someone to do it or you!! Definitly a better idea!! Good luck!

 

[shelbydog]

I actually bought the coop pictured above through a different retailer for couple hundred less then the linked website's price. I'm waiting for it to be delivered. But of course today I found plans for a wood pallet shed (free materials!!)......hopefully this will work out for me til I can gather materials for bigger digs for the flock I would like obtain in the near future.

 

[ReliezFarm]

We viewed a whole bunch of different coops at our local feed store in Concord, CA

for 3-4 chickens this seemed like a very cute, yet practical design so we bought it for about $450.

Assembly was quick and easy, but I really didn't like the soft wood (pine) they used for all the framing. The mesh wire was good and sturdy, so that was a plus against predators, but I saw quite a few upgrades it needed to be safe in our area with lots of coyotes and other critters roaming.

I also liked the idea of putting wheels on the thing and turning it into a tractor that could be located on different parts of the yard, if they were not free-roaming, which we do most of the time.
The wheels that Precision offers are pretty cheap and I was sure they wouldn't hold up well attached to this soft wood.

Here is a list of the upgrades I felt inclined to add:

1. replace all the sliding latches with secure ones I can put a racoon-proof clip through.
2. reinforce the main pen doors with a jamb that prevents a critter from forcing and prying it open even a bit.
3. make a wooden push rod with an open hook on the end so short people can push the roof open until it clicks into place. then use the hook to release the latches and lower the roof. the push rod then clips into two holders attached on the underside of the roof.
4. add a sheet of 1/4" plywood to the large pen roof underside, so that it can also be hinged (piano hinge). I built a frame around the top of the pen to firm up the stability and give the roof more support, since it was now not permanently attached to the pen walls.
5. Apply a high-quality exterior paint to all the trim wood and exposed joints, especially the roof trim that will see the most weather.
6. Apply a water-proofing spray to the entire kit, which is child/animal safe using a garden sprayer .
7 Add a 2x4' redwood base under the entire coop, which will contact the ground and also acts as a support for the new tractor wheels I built.
8 added 8" pneumatic wheels under the egg boxes, which contact the ground when the other end is lifted, so the whole thing can be moved around by one person over uneven ground.
9 replaced the roosting bars (3) with a large round dowel, cut down at the ends to fit the slots. The original was too square and would wobble in the slots, which the chickens don't like.
10 added a piece of metal lashing above the nesting boxes, since the crack where the hinges are would let in rain falling vertically. There is still a crack there, but this will help.
11 The ramp only had rough roof tar paper on it and no rungs, so the chickens didn't like it much. I added about 6 rungs and how they run up and down it with ease.
12 the ramp was also permanently attached with screws. since I now have a tractor and need to move it around, I replaced the screws with machine screws, with a nut holding them firmly to the ramp brackets and protruding enough to make a 'pin', which is then put into the holes at the top. I had to drill the holes at the top large enough for my new pins.
13 there was no door to the coop where the poop pan is and the two roosting bars. Even though the pen run is now secure enough, that I could leave it open, it gets pretty cold and having that door wide open with the wind would be a bit uncomfortable. I created a door that slides down into slats I attached on both sides of the opening. The door panel is 1/4" plywood with a round hole at the top to easily grip and pull it out. I'm a bit worried about having enough air flow in the summer. There are enough little cracks, but I might add some wire mesh covered vent holes.