Semi-temporary non-mobile coop ideas

[HawaiiRoosterandChick]

Hello everyone,

Looking for ideas to build a 20 ft. x8 ft. chicken coop with a 20 ft. x 8 ft. run for around $1,000 to $1,500. We're looking to build a long lasting stationary coop that is fairly open and enclosed with hard wire cloth and a corrugated plastic roof slanted (think large enclosure with slanted roof like a tool shed). We will be using the deep-litter method.

Here's the rub. It has to be "temporary" (defined as "not fixed to the ground") for about a year, and then can make it permanent. This means digging holes in the ground as posts is off the table. The ground is basically lava rock anyway, so that presents its own digging challenges.

I was thinking about just using ground-contact treat 2x4s and having them directly on the ground. We are fenced in, so the worst predators I suspect will be an occasional mongoose (think weasels) thus hardware cloth. I suppose I could dig a foundation and use cinder blocks, but again nothing can be "fixed" to the ground for at least 1 year.

Any ideas out there? I basically have to get this right on the first try, so I appreciate all the help I can get.

Thank you,

Hawaii Rooster & Chick

 

[GodLovesU]

Have you considered a tractor style coop?

 

[ChaosMom]

Hello everyone,

Looking for ideas to build a 20 ft. x8 ft. chicken coop with a 20 ft. x 8 ft. run for around $1,000 to $1,500. We're looking to build a long lasting stationary coop that is fairly open and enclosed with hard wire cloth and a corrugated plastic roof slanted (think large enclosure with slanted roof like a tool shed). We will be using the deep-litter method.

Here's the rub. It has to be "temporary" (defined as "not fixed to the ground") for about a year, and then can make it permanent. This means digging holes in the ground as posts is off the table. The ground is basically lava rock anyway, so that presents its own digging challenges.

I was thinking about just using ground-contact treat 2x4s and having them directly on the ground. We are fenced in, so the worst predators I suspect will be an occasional mongoose (think weasels) thus hardware cloth. I suppose I could dig a foundation and use cinder blocks, but again nothing can be "fixed" to the ground for at least 1 year.

Any ideas out there? I basically have to get this right on the first try, so I appreciate all the help I can get.

Thank you,

Hawaii Rooster & Chick

If you’re worried about wood rot, could you set the “non-posts” on 12x12 concrete stepping stones? And then after a year, mount them properly.

You’d probably want to have some sort of anchor against winds, although runs alone are surprisingly heavy and immobile.

 

[HawaiiRoosterandChick]

Thank you. Unfortunately, the chicken tractor isn’t the best option for us, but I have considered it.

The idea of mounting posts on 12x12 slabs is an interesting one. It could work. My biggest concern is wood rot, since it rains a lot here and I would like it to last. Thank you.

 

[Krugerrand]

Can you hammer T-Posts into the lava rock? Will they resist horizontal pressure? A hoop coop is cost effective, lends itself well to encasing in hardware cloth, and if you have stable T-Posts can be 'sandwiched' between them without anything else securing them to the ground. Corrugated roofing attaches to it fairly easily. You'd be looking 10 panels for the arches, plus 1-4 more if you want to use them for the ends and depending on the setup. Probably about 200' of 4' hardware cloth.

My hoop run in only tied to the T-Posts. Nothing else holds it down. Even the door is 'above ground' with no anchors.

 

[Krugerrand]

Over time it's been expanded from 2 panels to 3. A permanent roof added.

 

[perkolator]

My coop structure has an 8x24 footprint and was designed so that it would break down into three modular 8x8 sections I could pick up with helpers, in case I ever needed to relocate it for some reason. The sections are terraced on top of cinder block that's barely set in the ground, nothing is really "permanent" and would be quite easily removable.

Concrete pier blocks with the metal anchor plate would likely be a good thing to use for yours if making a wood structure like described, the 2x4 sill plate just sits on top. Extend anti-dig skirting from ground up to the sill plate, or add cheap fence slats/pallet slats, etc. along the bottom to fill gap to the ground. If going deep litter, I'd line the bottom 8" with wood anyway to keep bedding from pressing up directly against fencing.

Hopefully this made sense. If you need more explanation LMK

 

[aart]

It has to be "temporary" (defined as "not fixed to the ground") for about a year, and then can make it permanent.

Never heard of this one before.
Why?

 

[HawaiiRoosterandChick]

Can you hammer T-Posts into the lava rock? Will they resist horizontal pressure? A hoop coop is cost effective, lends itself well to encasing in hardware cloth, and if you have stable T-Posts can be 'sandwiched' between them without anything else securing them to the ground. Corrugated roofing attaches to it fairly easily. You'd be looking 10 panels for the arches, plus 1-4 more if you want to use them for the ends and depending on the setup. Probably about 200' of 4' hardware cloth.

My hoop run in only tied to the T-Posts. Nothing else holds it down. Even the door is 'above ground' with no anchors.

View attachment 4070993

I thought about T-posts, but unfortunately I was told that counted as fixed to ground. I might use T-posts for a separate section at some point. I like the ideas.

 

[HawaiiRoosterandChick]

My coop structure has an 8x24 footprint and was designed so that it would break down into three modular 8x8 sections I could pick up with helpers, in case I ever needed to relocate it for some reason. The sections are terraced on top of cinder block that's barely set in the ground, nothing is really "permanent" and would be quite easily removable.

Concrete pier blocks with the metal anchor plate would likely be a good thing to use for yours if making a wood structure like described, the 2x4 sill plate just sits on top. Extend anti-dig skirting from ground up to the sill plate, or add cheap fence slats/pallet slats, etc. along the bottom to fill gap to the ground. If going deep litter, I'd line the bottom 8" with wood anyway to keep bedding from pressing up directly against fencing.

Hopefully this made sense. If you need more explanation LMK

I’m leaning towards this idea. How many cinder blocks did you use? Did you use concrete at all? Do you have a pictures readily available. Thank you so much.

Never heard of this one before.
Why?

I’m blessed to have received a grant, but that means certain requirements like “temporary” (not fixed to ground) until after the grant year is complete.