Struggling with aging hens

I've noticed with my almost 3 year old RIR hens that when I up the protein, the eggs become more consistent, even daily again. I was getting anywhere from 0 to 2 eggs a day from the three of them. Now, I am adding 22% turkey grower pellets to the layer mix and getting 2 or 3 eggs a day from them. I just make sure that there is always crushed oyster shell in there so they get the extra calcium, since the turkey pellets are lower than layer mix.
 
I have a small flock, 7 - 8 birds fit best. I currently have 1 roo and 7 hens. I have 4 hens that just turned two, and 3 that are not quite a year. My plan is to hatch out chicks this summer (please let Butter go broody again!) and then this fall I will butcher my older hens,.... maybe not Butter
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I can have a few more chickens in the summer, as they free range so much, but in the winter, I have to get back to 8.

But the thing is, I like keeping a flock of chickens, but I like meeting new birds, and getting chicks, so for me the turn over is just a part of life. I don't really have individual pets (well except maybe for Butter) I have a small flock. That flock grows and changes with the years.

This keeps my family in eggs, I always have my girls to talk to and it accepts the fact of death.

I do like the dual purpose breeds for this rotating flock, but I like trying a few new breeds too. Again, I tend to look at the flock, not the individual bird.

Don't feel guilty about harvesting your birds, you have given them a good life, and you can get new chicks.

MrsK
 
Solution to egg problem. You need to increase protien for a month or two to get them back into lay. Most layer is not high enough. Get some Flock Raiser or give some dry cat food or some other meat source. Egg production depends on protien so if it is low hens will not lay much. 2 years old is not that old even for leghorns. Now if they were sexlinks or hybred I would say get your self new chicks for they do burn out around two years old. Producing eggs every day or every other day is the smae as a woman give birth to an 8lb baby daily. You need to feed for production and that means higher protien than 16%. Cut out all scratch and treats. As they lower protien of feed. You might want to start with some like turkey or broiler feed which runs 22 to 24 percent and then cut back to a 18 to 20 percent feed. Trust me this will work and you will see larger eggs too. At least the size they are suppose to have not med or small but large and xlarge.
 
I agree that a better diet keeps chickens laying better for longer. Typical layer diets are not optimal diets for chickens. They are designed to be the cheapest thing you can feed and still get an egg from a chicken. I think more protein, a better quality of protein and the wider range of foods they get if you can free range are a big plus, nutritionally. It also helps to not dilute the minimal protein they are getting in feed by adding nothing but large amounts of carbs to the diet.

The other thing that comes up a lot is new people that don't use supplemental lighting in the winter and see a sharp drop off of laying in the second winter. You can get away without lighting the first winter when they're pullets and they'll usually lay just fine. As adults, going into their second winter, most chickens quit laying. They'll start again in the spring, when the days are longer. Some people think their chickens are old and have quit laying, instead of understanding that it's a seasonal issue. It's fine to not use supplemental lighting if you don't want to. It's just important to understand that day length effects laying. So does molting and going broody, which also rarely effects pullets, but does effect adult chickens. Some chickens have been bred to not go broody, which is a plus for optimum laying.
 
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Thank you, Woodland Woman. That is the most informational & thorough explanation I have heard.
I have 5 production reds that just turned 2 last month and this past winter went from an egg a day each to 1 a day from all five combined. I attributed it to age, winter time lack of sun and a molt. And the fact that production hybrids do not produce much after 2 years. But after reading this thread, I am hopeful they will rebound at least a little.
It does not matter that much to me. My girls will live out their days for as long as they wish, & will soon have 4 heritage hens joining them for more egg production.
I must add that I am not happy with the Purina Layena feed. After reading many threads about soft-shelled eggs these past few months (a problem that I am also experiencing), the one common link I have found was they were all feeding the Layena to their girls. After checking the ingredients list, I found the calcium content was less in the Layena than the Dumor brand. One BYCer did find a vitamin D3 supplement that solved her soft shell issues, though, so I shall try that.
Good link to protein for chickens:
http://www.lionsgrip.com/protein.html
 
I personally will not feed a Purnina Mills product or a TSC one. I went to ADM as they contatain meat in their feed which is so important to chickens. They are omnivours not herbavours, so need meat in their diet to do their best. We free range but in winter there is not alot of stuff to eat. I switch feed store when our other one closed down. I am so glad it did because this is a better feed. I get no soft shells and chickens went threw moult nice and fast. We had a slow winter but they did start laying again before it ended.
 
If you are in it for the eggs, you'll want to replace them out every 2-3 years... they will still lay, just not as much as young girls. They can easily live to 7-10, with some into their 20's with an occasional egg, so if they are not pets, selling them or eating them is your best bet.
 
Here are the facts:
At first molt, they will quit producing for 3-4 months. If they set (like most heritage breeds) they will, again, quit producing until they hatch their clutch. Once becoming broody, they will continue to become broody 2-3 times per year.....So no egg production.

Most of us who raise birds for egg production ( which is a large part of my farm income ), will cull layers at the second molt. We rarely become attached, as they are income producers. Now, don't get me wrong....My big blue rooster (Bob) is protected like Fort Knox. No one will ever be able to buy him from me...I would eat him first. But that's a rare thing. But, I do have my favorites.
But, economically speaking...artificial lighting will not help if you have a broody or molt. High protien will help marginally, but again...not with a broody, or with molting. If you have "heritage" breeds, then your main focus is not really egg production because they don't lay all that well...so add a couple more pullets to take up the slack. Or, take the old hens to a swap and replace with pullets.
If you really are concerned with egg production, you should be running leghorn hybrids, australorps, or sex links. Those are your really good producers....over 300 eggs per year. Everything else...down to mid to low 200 range.

It all depends on your REAL focus.

Regards
 
My hens will live out their lives here, comfortably. After spending their lives laying for me, I will not toss them away when they can no longer keep up production. They have earned their homes, for the duration of their lives, eggs or not. We always make room for both "retirees" and new stock. To me, it's part of being a good steward to animals. Here, we give AND receive; we don't just take and throw away. That's just how I see it, no doubt others do otherwise and see it differently.
 

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