Show Me Your Pallet Projects!

[StinkyAcres]

Thanks for all that great feedback. I won't pretend to be an expert on bird houses, having only watched a number of videos on YouTube for the past few evenings, so I really appreciate your comments and feedback.

As to ventilation, I did not think a bird house would need any. I have not seen this mentioned in any of the videos I watched. Assuming you are correct, I think the best plan for me would be to leave a small gap under the roof on the sides. Eaiser than going back later and drilling in holes.



Again, something I had not seen mentioned in any videos I watched. I think the better option for me would be to cut off a bit off the corners of the bottom piece before assembling the bird house.



I have never seen those metal hole protector plates. I'll have to look that up. In any case, if I can make it out of wood, can I simply take a pallet wood cut-off piece, drill a hole in it the same size as the hole in the bird house, and tack it on to the front of the bird house?



That would be easy with any leftover piece of scrap wood. I found it interesting that most bird house designs did not even have an option to remove a panel to clean out the bird house - ever. That did not make any sense to me. And here you suggest adding an additional loose false bottom for easier clean out! Sounds like you are speaking from experience. Thanks.



OK, that idea of adding a perch is definitely out. Thanks.

Again, thanks for all the feedback and suggestions. It is much easier to incorporate those ideas into the design before I put everything together than having to "fix" stuff after the build.

You're welcome! I do speak from experience. And I am involved with the local Audubon and other wild bird groups. It's great you're going into this knowing that birdhouses should be cleaned regularly.

I have never seen those metal hole protector plates. I'll have to look that up. In any case, if I can make it out of wood, can I simply take a pallet wood cut-off piece, drill a hole in it the same size as the hole in the bird house, and tack it on to the front of the bird house?

Yes, that is the way to do it. I use 3/4" pieces. The thicker the wood the longer it will take for it to be destroyed by chewers. Also study hole size for the particular species you are trying to attract. If the hole is too big you might attract nuisance/invasive species and that is not what you want. House Sparrows and starlings kill native species to take their nests.

 

[Molpet]

You're welcome! I do speak from experience. And I am involved with the local Audubon and other wild bird groups. It's great you're going into this knowing that birdhouses should be cleaned regularly.


Yes, that is the way to do it. I use 3/4" pieces. The thicker the wood the longer it will take for it to be destroyed by chewers. Also study whole size for the particular species you are trying to attract. If the hole is too big you might attract nuisance/invasive species and that is not what you want. House Sparrows and starlings kill native species to take their nests.

I had several Wren houses hanging around. They keep getting the hole chewed larger. I assumed chipmunk or such, until I went to open one up late winter . It had just been chewed. When I started to open a Downey or hairy woodpecker few in my face so fast I couldn't tell which it was.

 

[gtaus]

You're welcome! I do speak from experience. And I am involved with the local Audubon and other wild bird groups. It's great you're going into this knowing that birdhouses should be cleaned regularly.

Your comments and suggestions indicated to me that you had some background in birds and bird houses. That's why I was so thankful that you took the time to offer your suggestions.

I watched a YouTube video on a guy who claims he has been making bird houses for over 25 years. They were not fancy bird houses, but every one of them had a way to get inside to clean them out. He made a point that it was necessary to clean out the bird houses.

He was also the one to mention that the front inside panel cannot be too smooth because the baby birds need to climb up the side to the opening. He said he discovered that when he heard some bird(s) flopping around the inside of one of his early career bird houses. That's when he discovered that the inside was too smooth for the birds to climb up to the hole. It was a bird trap at that point. So, he took off the front panel and cut grooves in the inside panel to act like a ladder for the birds to climb out. He also mentioned that tacking on hardware cloth to the inside of the front panel would work as well.

Interestingly, neither of those two points were ever mentioned in the vast number of YouTube videos I watched. I guess there is a difference between treating a bird house as a child's beginner wood project and actually making a bird house that the birds can thrive in.

Yes, that is the way to do it. I use 3/4" pieces. The thicker the wood the longer it will take for it to be destroyed by chewers.

OK, got that covered.

Also study whole size for the particular species you are trying to attract. If the hole is too big you might attract nuisance/invasive species and that is not what you want. House Sparrows and starlings kill native species to take their nests.

I had not thought of that. I was planning on using a 1-1/4 inch hole only because that seems like what most bird houses have. Is there any such thing as a "general" sized hole that is preferred?

I really don't know enough about birds (at this time) to tell you what species that I would want to attract for my yard here in northern Minnesota. I can identify many of our common visitors, but I could not even tell you if they are nuisance/invasive species. We just like birds flying around the yard. Dear Wife has a couple of bird (squirrel) feeders out on our deck and we just like seeing who comes to visit.

This is a quick picture of one of our fat squirrels eating a lunch from the bird feeder...

As a bonus, she also tries to make a nest in that BBQ grill in the bottom of the photo. We have had to clean out the grill three times this past few months because she was hauling in nesting materials. We don't mind too much as we moved into the country to enjoy the wildlife.

I was going to say that maybe I should build a squirrel house for her to make her nest in. But we have so many squirrels on our property that I would have to build a squirrel condominium!

Google picture of squirrel multi-unit housing..

Might be a good pallet project for someone?

 

[StinkyAcres]

He was also the one to mention that the front inside panel cannot be too smooth because the baby birds need to climb up the side to the opening. He said he discovered that when he heard some bird(s) flopping around the inside of one of his early career bird houses. That's when he discovered that the inside was too smooth for the birds to climb up to the hole. It was a bird trap at that point. So, he took off the front panel and cut grooves in the inside panel to act like a ladder for the birds to climb out. He also mentioned that tacking on hardware cloth to the inside of the front panel would work as well.

That is a good idea, and I have added a "ladder" before. However, hardware cloth is quite sharp, so I'd stick with rough wood or cutting grooves. Usually the birds build their nests up to near the bottom of the hole, but sometimes there are smaller nests.

I had not thought of that. I was planning on using a 1-1/4 inch hole only because that seems like what most bird houses have. Is there any such thing as a "general" sized hole that is preferred?

1-1/2" holes are typical for bluebird houses. Tree Swallows will use them too. House Sparrows (invasive species) can get into that size so keep an eye on the residents. There are a few tricks you can find on the internet to keep them out if they end up being a big problem.

 

[fuzzi]

Pallet Wood Birdhouse Plan and Instructions

After making all those pallet wood raised beds in my garage this winter, I have a couple storage bins full of smaller off-cuts that I was looking to use someday. One idea I have had for some time is using some of that scrap wood to make bird houses. Who doesn't want to have more birds around the yard?

I spent a couple evenings looking at many YouTube videos on the subject. Most of the bird house builds are very simple to make. Most of them didn't have anyway to clean out the birdhouse after you build it. I guess if you want to build a new bird house every spring, that is OK. But I think it makes more sense to build the bird house so it can be cleaned out if/when needed.

There were some bird houses that were really fancy and would require more skill in building. They looked pretty, but, again, none of the videos I watched had the ability to clean out the house after you put it together.

Anyways, this evening I came across what I consider to be the best pallet wood bird house design so far. Not only does he make the front capable of opening so you can clean out the bird house, but he also shows you how the inside of the front panel has a series of cuts in the wood which will allow the baby birds to climb up the wall to the opening in the front.

Some bird house designs do not consider that the baby birds need to climb up that front wall to reach the opening to get out of the birdhouse. If you used a smooth board for the front, you would essentially trap the baby birds inside to die! Making a series of horizontal cuts as a ladder into the inside front wood panel is one solution. Another option is to tack something like hardware cloth on to the inside front panel. Those baby birds need something to grab on to when they climb out.

Yeah, I just learned that last night. But it makes total sense because the inside of a hollow tree would not have a smooth surface. The baby birds could climb out easily in natural wood.

This 6-minute video link shows how to assemble the pallet wood bird house kit this guy sells, so he does not go into dimensions of the birdhouse. But you can probably come up with measurements close enough on your own just by watching the video.

The only addition I was thinking about was maybe drilling a small hole under the opening to put a dowel/branch for a perch. Lots of bird house designs have a perch under the main hole opening, but, at the same time, many don't.

Well, it's something I am going to look into because I have bins full of cut-offs that might be good for small projects like bird houses.

Most birds don't need a perch on the house.

Make sure to add a collar of metal or wood around the house opening, as bigger birds and other predators will enlarge it and kill the babies.

A ¾ inch to 1 inch thick piece of wood extended from and surrounding the entry hole will hinder and protect eggs from predators. A shaped metal copper plate surrounding the entry hole can be added for even further protection.

ETA: I once made a entrance plate from an aluminum soda can.

 

[gtaus]

That is a good idea, and I have added a "ladder" before. However, hardware cloth is quite sharp, so I'd stick with rough wood or cutting grooves.

Got it. Thanks.

1-1/2" holes are typical for bluebird houses.

I can do that. Thanks. I'll be looking up some hole sizes for other birds as well.

I love how you guys are making suggestions to improve something that many would consider a simple bird house. Turns out, there is a lot more to building a good bird house than what I had previously thought. I appreciate the online learning. Thanks, again.

Most birds don't need a perch on the house.

Right. I'm not going to put a perch on the house. Thanks.

Make sure to add a collar of metal or wood around the house opening, as bigger birds and other predators will enlarge it and kill the babies.

I will be adding another chunk of pallet wood as a collar around the house opening. I have lots of scrap wood to use up.

ETA: I once made a entrance plate from an aluminum soda can.

That's a great idea, assuming it worked for you. I will be trying the wood collar from some scrap wood first. If that does not work for me, then I'll give your aluminum soda can idea a try. Thanks.

Speaking of aluminum cans, let me rant just a bit. For the past couple of weeks, I have been going out for a heart healthy 30-minute walk every other day (doctor's orders). Anyway, it saddens me to see aluminum cans littering the ditches along the road where I walk. Usually, aluminum beer cans. What's up with that? I am assuming they must be drinking and driving at the same time if they are throwing out beer cans from their window. It's not a major problem, but in a 30-minute walk I might come across 10 cans in the ditch.

I was stationed in Naples, Italy for 2 years way back in the 1990's, and people there would toss out full garbage bags out on the highway. That way, the government would eventually clean up the road and the person would not have to pay for garbage disposal at their house. The garbage was disgusting. The local government was practically broken and not very good at clean up. I am so thankful that we don't live in that environment anymore.

My roadside here where I live is nowhere near that bad. Just an occasional can or wrapper every once in a while. Still, I was thinking today that maybe I could rig up some kind of light weight wagon behind me one day and just pick up the bits of trash I find along my route. I know we do have sections of the highway that are cleaned by volunteers maybe once a year. I clean my roadway ditch myself on my property. It's never a big deal but occasionally someone will toss out an empty bag of fast-food wrappers and paper soda cups.

Anyways, out on a walk, I have picked up some easy to reach trash that was on the shoulder of the road and took it home for our trash can just to clean the road up a bit. But my coat pockets are not very big. Maybe I could rig up some kind of shoulder bag and use a handy reach grabber. That might work.

I would not mind picking up some trash along the way as long as I don't have to be bending over all the time or toting a heavy bag of trash. I am out for a heart healthy walk, not trying to give myself a heart attack lugging trash along my route.

Sorry for that detour on the subject totally not related to anything pallet wood related, but your good comment on using an aluminum can as a hole guard triggered my thoughts from my walk earlier today. Even if I only pick up a few cans here and there, at least it would make a small improvement and I guess I could feel better about doing it. OK, I'm done.

 

[chickengr]

I imagine you are a lot more comfotable with an angle grinder than I am. I only use my angle grinders maybe 4X per year. If I worked with metal more, I suppose I would use it more. Mainly I use my angle grinder to sharpen lawn mower blades or to cut off a rusted bolt once in awhile.



I have been around a few years. My grandfather and father passed down some corded electric tools to me. I still have them. Most of the tools I have purchased in the past 20 years have been cordless battery tools. I prefer to use the cordless most of the time.

IIRC, you got your tools stolen a while back. Did you ever replace everything?

I had to buy new tools. unfortunately there are 3 places near me where they sell stolen stuff. I guess they did it before I returned home.

 

[Molpet]

Got it. Thanks.



I can do that. Thanks. I'll be looking up some hole sizes for other birds as well.

I love how you guys are making suggestions to improve something that many would consider a simple bird house. Turns out, there is a lot more to building a good bird house than what I had previously thought. I appreciate the online learning. Thanks, again.



Right. I'm not going to put a perch on the house. Thanks.



I will be adding another chunk of pallet wood as a collar around the house opening. I have lots of scrap wood to use up.



That's a great idea, assuming it worked for you. I will be trying the wood collar from some scrap wood first. If that does not work for me, then I'll give your aluminum soda can idea a try. Thanks.

Speaking of aluminum cans, let me rant just a bit. For the past couple of weeks, I have been going out for a heart healthy 30-minute walk every other day (doctor's orders). Anyway, it saddens me to see aluminum cans littering the ditches along the road where I walk. Usually, aluminum beer cans. What's up with that? I am assuming they must be drinking and driving at the same time if they are throwing out beer cans from their window. It's not a major problem, but in a 30-minute walk I might come across 10 cans in the ditch.

I was stationed in Naples, Italy for 2 years way back in the 1990's, and people there would toss out full garbage bags out on the highway. That way, the government would eventually clean up the road and the person would not have to pay for garbage disposal at their house. The garbage was disgusting. The local government was practically broken and not very good at clean up. I am so thankful that we don't live in that environment anymore.

My roadside here where I live is nowhere near that bad. Just an occasional can or wrapper every once in a while. Still, I was thinking today that maybe I could rig up some kind of light weight wagon behind me one day and just pick up the bits of trash I find along my route. I know we do have sections of the highway that are cleaned by volunteers maybe once a year. I clean my roadway ditch myself on my property. It's never a big deal but occasionally someone will toss out an empty bag of fast-food wrappers and paper soda cups.

Anyways, out on a walk, I have picked up some easy to reach trash that was on the shoulder of the road and took it home for our trash can just to clean the road up a bit. But my coat pockets are not very big. Maybe I could rig up some kind of shoulder bag and use a handy reach grabber. That might work.

I would not mind picking up some trash along the way as long as I don't have to be bending over all the time or toting a heavy bag of trash. I am out for a heart healthy walk, not trying to give myself a heart attack lugging trash along my route.

Sorry for that detour on the subject totally not related to anything pallet wood related, but your good comment on using an aluminum can as a hole guard triggered my thoughts from my walk earlier today. Even if I only pick up a few cans here and there, at least it would make a small improvement and I guess I could feel better about doing it. OK, I'm done.

Aluminum cans can be sold
By me they want smashed usually 24 cents a lb. 32 cans per lb. Not cost effective if you have to go far unless you're going that way.
So I give mine to my cousin who has several outbuildings. Her husband takes them in on the flatbed car hauler when the price is up. Has gotten $1,200 in one trip . That's years worth of cans.

 

[gtaus]

Aluminum cans can be sold
By me they want smashed usually 24 cents a lb. 32 cans per lb. Not cost effective if you have to go far unless you're going that way.
So I give mine to my cousin who has several outbuildings. Her husband takes them in on the flatbed car hauler when the price is up. Has gotten $1,200 in one trip . That's years worth of cans.

I gave up drinking soda pop a few years ago. So, we don't have many aluminum cans to sell at the recycle center. Like you said, it's not cost effective for me to drive out to the metal recycle center to sell the cans unless I happen to be going that way to/from town.

Way back in the 1990's, I was stationed in Santa Barbara, CA. They had recycle machines (about the size of a large pop vending machine) outside of the grocery store. IIRC, you could put aluminum cans in one machine, plastic in another, and glass in a third. The machine would read the bar code on the container then crush it, shred it, or break it into pieces as appropriate. Then it would give you a receipt for the items you returned. You took that receipt into the store and either used it to buy groceries or just get some cash back. That was a great system because you did not have to have a truckload of cans to make it worth your effort to drive out to a recycle center. Because we always had a small bag, or two, of cans and jars to return on a weekly grocery shopping run, we never had to store large garbage bags full of stuff at home. Unfortunately, we don't have anything like that where I live now.

 

[gtaus]

Making Pallet Wood Glue-up Panels with Dowels - One Face Flush

I am happy to report that I figured out how to make a glue-up panel with pallet wood of different thicknesses. The goal was just to have one face flush (front) and let the backside hide the differences in thicknesses.

First of all, here is the dowel kit I purchased a few years ago...

I got it on sale from our local Menards, for about $20.00, but that was probably pre-COVID. I have used this kit a few times and it worked OK for me. Of course, you can buy much more expensive kits if you want. But I am dealing with pallet wood and just getting close counts a lot in my projects.

As I mentioned, I wanted to see if I could make panels out of cut-off pieces of pallet wood, making one side flush, then cutting them down to size for a bird house project. I watched a few YouTube videos last night on using my dowel jig in this kit. This morning, I took out the kit and started experimenting. Much to my surprise, everything was actually very easy and I had my desired result with one face flush on the first go!

Here are some pictures of what I did....

This picture shows that I took out two pieces of scrap wood of different thicknesses. I drilled the dowel holes in the thinner board using the dowel jig which centered the holes in that darker board. I put the dowel pegs in the holes and then drilled the matching holes in the thicker, lighter board. You can see that the holes in that board are slightly off centered. The guide on the dowel jig does this for you automatically. No measuring or anything required.

Then I flipped the lighter board and joined them together using the dowels to align them. Here you can see that the front face is flush...

Another view of the front face which is flush...

The pictures might not do justice to how flush the boards are. When I ran my finger over the joint, it was really smooth. Very nice.

Now, I turn the boards over to the backside and you can clearly see that there is about 1/8-inch difference in the boards on the backside...

That is exactly what I wanted. The front face is perfectly flush, and the backside hides the fact that my pallet wood is of different thicknesses.

I also want to mention that I was only experimenting with getting one face flush using dowels. These scrap pieces of board have not been cut on a table saw for a glue up with tight fitting edges. For a proper glue-up panel, those boards would be trimmed off with clean edges on my table saw before gluing them together.

That means I can now use cut-offs of different thicknesses and still have one face that will be flush. For a bird house build, that's all I would need. If I needed both sides flush, I could run the backside through my thickness planer until the backside was also flat.

Of course, having said all that, I would still first try to find boards of the same thickness to make a panel. But now I know I am not limited to only using boards of the same thickness. When dealing with pallet wood, the boards just are not perfectly the same size.

A big advantage to me is that by using wooden dowels and glue to make panels out of off-cut pieces, I can cut that panel on my table saw or my miter saw down to size without worrying about any nails or screws in the boards.

If you are interested in using dowels in your projects, here is the video I watched (a couple of times) on how to use the kit I bought.

Bonus Video: I came across an interesting video last night comparing different joinery systems. In this video, he compares pocket hole screws, biscuits, dominos, and dowels for use to join wood.

Can you guess which came out on top in his trials?

Spoiler alert...........

1) was dowels, 2) dominoes, 3) pocket hole screws, and last at 4) was biscuits. Did that surprise you?